240sx code 45 "injector leak"

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Ok here it is: I drive a 1993 s13 coupe with about 139,000 miles on it. It is a 5sp "california" car.

Stuff done:

I have removed the AIV setup. Replaced cap and rotor (Nissan OEM), wires and plugs (NGK), and EGR valve all about 25k miles ago (1 year). Replaced O2 sensor (5 months ago) with a bosch unit, replaced MAF with a used one (nothing changed so I figured they are both good (tested the second one)). New Alternator about 10k miles ago. I also replaced the PCV valve (not the seperator or hose though -stupid me-) about 10k miles ago. About 20k miles ago I re-did all the timing stuff and had all new exhaust valves put in. New bosch platinum plugs about 3k miles ago. And replaced some vacumm hoses just yesterday that all had leaks in them.

Problem: Now my car is throwing a code 45 "injector leack", and it just idles like crap, lack of hp and also not so great gas mileage. Just hoping there is a relativley easy fix on this one (it's my only car). I did spray some wd-40 around the injectors while the engine was running to see if I could find a leak, and nothing. No bubbles, no revving engine, nothing. Any imput would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance,

-Steve

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Also I can't figure out how to get the injectors out of the rail. They just won't budge! I'm trying to check the seals, but I can't get to them

[NISTECH]

you likely wont remove those injectors with out damaging them, when they get that old they become brittle. Injector leak means the o2 is seeing a constantly rich mixture even though it is cutting injector pulse back as far as possible The ecm cant seam to make the o2 see a lean mixture so it determines that to be a leaking injector. This could be a number of things but exceess fuel is getting into the cyl some how, either a injector is not closing all the way, the fuel pressure regulator is either stuck closed or leaking fuel into the vaccum line attached to it. to check if an injector is leaking put a fuel gauge between the fuel filter and ythe rail. cycle the key from off to on [dont start it] the pressure should come up to about 40 psi. and hold. if it drops after the pump shuts off you have fuel pressure loss somewhere. do it again but this time when the pressure reaches max pressure pinch off the fuel line between the fuel filter and you gauge. see if you have the same result, if so your gonna do it again but this time when it reaches pressure pinch off both the fuel feed line between the filter and the gauge and the return line. if you still loose pressure you have nailed it to either thr f/p reg or the injectors, if its the injectors at this point you should see a puddle of fuel in the cylinders if you pull the plugs.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Ok, I'll give it a shot. thanks!

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Well I ran the tests, and it did isolate the pressure loss to the injectors or the FPR. I took out the plugs (which were very black and are only about 3 weeks old), and saw no visible puddles of fuel.

I did however take off the vacuum line off of the FPR and I did see a small puddle of liquid on the end of the hose. So does that clarify that I need a new FPR? Also I am at about 45 psi when I turn the ignition on and it drops down to about 35-38 psi in about 5 minutes or so.

At idle the engine stumbles, and then all of a sudden after a few minutes it will either stall or come close to stalling. Could the FPR cause that?

Thanks for your help.

[NISTECH]

yes if it is leaking fuel internally into the vaccum side of the diaphram. That is like a whole new injector with a much higher flow rate.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Well I got my FPR in today and I installed it. As I was doing that, I looked at the bottom of the injectors (pulled the rail to get at the mounting screws for the FPR) and the little yellow plastic cap on the tip of the #1 injector was cracked. I touched it and it just fell apart (very brittle). The other three injectors looked fine, but now the first one is missing that little cap. I had no choice but to re-install everything (it is my only car), so I took it out for a drive anyways. Well the car ran a bit smoother (The FPR was bad) but it still stumbles a little (like it is missing once in a while) at idle and the check engine light is still on (removed the batery cable for about 2 minutes to reset ecu; light came back on). Do I need a new injector, a used one or is there a way to just replace that little cap?

[NISTECH]

you need another injector, but first check to see what your new code is.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

I am getting both 45 (injector leak) and 32 (EGR Function). Now I have replaced the egr valve, all cracked vacuum lines, tested the control valve which passed and went over all the procedures in the FSM that I could find relating to a code "32". I am kinda at a loss at the whole EGR problem.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Also should I try for a used one, or just get a new injector?

I did find this on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...yment

It's a rail and 4 injectors from a '95. Would that work, or would you just get a new one?

[NISTECH]

I believe the 93 and 95 use the same injector set up. But you could probably get a good deal here from one of the nico sponsors like one of the nissan dealers. You get a cut rate from the typical over the counter rate and your get a part warranty. Buying from ebay you risk buying garbage.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

I acually work at a parts store so i get some of a discount. I can get an injector for around 80 bucks new. Is that as good? Or can I get a better deal through one of our sponsors?

[NISTECH]

this is for a factory fuel injector.

http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=1

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Well when I was driving this morning the check engine light went off. The car seems to be running fine, but it still feels like its missing a bit (at idle). I am going to check the timing if I can get ahold of a timing light. Other than that, do you think it is because of that little cap being broken off of the tip of the #1 injector? By the way thanks for all your help.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Well the light came back on. Same 2 codes as before. I borrowed a Timing light from a friend and I'll check the timing when I get off of work (on lunch break).

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Well timing was at about 30 degrees BTDC so I put it back at 20 degrees (FSM Spec). The car runs better now. I cleaned up some grounds as well just for the heck of it. The check engine light is off again (20 min of driving so far) so we'll see what happens next. I won't get my new injector till next Monday (got it at my work for 52.49), so I'll let you know if that "solves" my problem.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Well I got the "new" injector last night. It is a remanufacture by the way. Anyways, I installed it and now my car runs like total crap. It is pouring out a bluish white smoke and sounds like an old volkswagon beetle. I took out the spark plug on the number one piston (where the new injector is) and it is just sothered in gasoline, and I peered into the cylinder through the hole and there is a large puddle of gas sitting atop the piston. Now the puddle of gas is my fault because I was lazy and put in the old injector without removing the rail or releiving the fuel pressure (yeah I know, I'm an idiot on that one ), therefore a bunch of gas just poured right into the cylinder. I am going to pull the rest of the plugs here in a bit to see what they look like (had to take a breather before I suffocated). The engine runs better when I pull off the injector harness to #1. Any Ideas?

[NISTECH]

either your new injector is garbage or you tore the seal putting it in.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

I retested the "new injector" and yes it is garbage. I'll never buy a reman. part ever again. I am going to order a nissan injector tomorrow as well as a FPR (the new one turned out to be crap as well, good thing I can return both of them). However I did try to re-install all of my old components (as well as new seals for the old injector) and the old one still leaks (the cap is gone though, so thats most likely why). I lose pressure quite fast (gauge is between filter and rail), but if I pinch off the return hose off of the FPR it slows (almost stops) but the injector drips a bit (I have the rail off of the manifold to see). So I know the parts that I "tried" to replace are the problem, I just got crap.

By the way, what is the correct way to install the injectors. I just want to be sure I am doing it correctly? Thanks.

[NISTECH]

on your car you have the drop in injectors, so removing the rail is not neccesary for replacement. you undo the 2 cap screws on top, gently but firm twist the injector as you pull upward to remove it. get your new one set up with both the lower and upper seals installed on it. lubricate the seal with a mineral oil prefferably, silicone spray lube will work but be sparing with it as the silicone is really not good for some of the sensors. Then you push it into the rail as straight as possible, place the cap on it and push it down into the rail by pushing on the back of the cap with an extension until you can start the 2 cap screws. Then start tightening the 2 screws alternating back and forth from side to side till it is fully seated. you do not want to run one of the screws all the way down then do the other cause it can put a bind on the injector causeing it to tear the seal.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

That website you gave me a link to earlier is oem nissan stuff correct? The dealer wants close to 300 bucks for one injector and one FPR. The site is almost 100 bucks cheaper. Just wanted to make sure, because I don't want to get crap again. Thanks man.

[NISTECH]

yes those are dealers your getting parts from, there are like 3 nissan dealers that sponsor NICO and since the members buy a high volume of parts from NICO you get a discounted price. It is not much over their cost. That is why you should look at our sponsors before you go and buy direct. It usually ends up being substantially cheaper.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

well I called "midway" and they only have the injector in stock. Will the nismo FPR work with the stock fuel rail ??? (I just need an FPR as soon as possible, and I will eventually run boost anyways, obvisously after I work out the kinks ) I can't seem to find the factory FPR in stock anywhere.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

The mounting on the nismo unit looks the same as the factory ka FPR, so it look like it will fit, but I just need to make sure (called phase2 and they didn't know if it would fit or not).

[NISTECH]

It should be a direct fit, and I dont think the difference is all that big. Usually the nismo stuff is name only with minimal increase in performance.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

I finally got an answer from 240sxmotoring. they say that you might have to mod your valve cover because the adjustment screw will hit the side of it. I guess I'll have to pay retial dealer prices for the stick FPR in cali (closest) but its gonna cost me about 130 bucks! i could get teh nismo one for about 150 but, I really dont want to mess around with my valve cover to get it to work. I just need to be back on the road.

I just talked to Dan, over at midway, over the phone in arizona and ordered an injector. He's shipping it overnight, so I'll ge that one easily.

Do you think it is worth the effort on the nismo unit, or would you just go with the factory unit for now?

[NISTECH]

factory is fine. like I said the nismo one is just alot of hoopla anyway.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Ok, well I got all my factory parts in, and guess what. It worked!!!. Before I re-installed the rail I turned the ignition on to see if there was any leaks externally and there wern't any from the bottom of the injectors either. My vacuum gauge still read a minor pressure loss (very slow now) If I didn't pinch off the return line. By the way the gauge is between the filter and the rail. If the the return line is pinched, I hold pressure. Is it normal for it to let off pressure back through the feed line when the ignition is off?

The engine runs pretty damn well now, but it still will stumbles just a bit for about 5 seconds then run perfect for 10 then stumble again for another 5 seconds. When I mean stumble it kinda feels like the number one cylinder (most likely number one, because that's where all the problems were before) just isn't hitting the mark perfectly. It will drop only about 25 rpms (guessing, needle moved barely) and then when it runs perfect is just goes back up. This could also be my cat due to all the gas that got trapped in it due to all my problems lately. It took about an hour for all the smoke to clear out of the exhaust. The plugs also are all new a few weeks ago, but should I replace them because of the gas contact they have been through? I had to clean them like 3-4 times because they were dripping with gas beore I got my car running.

Lastly, say it is because of my fuel pump. Would I run too rich if I replaced it with a Walbro 255? Running everything else stock wouldn't the FPR just regulate the pressure anyways regardless of the fuel pump?

I apologize for the really long post, but I do appreciate all the help.

[NISTECH]

you shouldnt bleed off when the key is off, you will loose some of the initial build up once the pump stops that is normal. Since the FPR is new I would retry that test later if you feel like it to be sure it is seating, but I think you got your problem fixed regardless.

I dont know alot about the walbro pump but I believe it is mainly designed for volume and not pressure.

I dont think you need to replace the plugs just clean them off. They are ngk's rrrrrrrrrriiiight?

your fluctuating idle may be due to a bad O2 sensor. drive it for a day or so and recheck everything and see if the remenant problems cure up on their own. If not then persue further diag.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

They arn't NGK's. I was dumb and put in bosch plats. Should I seriously get rid of them? If so which NGK's should I get (with performance in mind)?

About the O2 sensor. You'll probably laugh, but when I was taking off the manifold heat shield to check for cracks (about 2 days before all this happened) I accidently cut off the wire from the O2 sensor. Since I just replace it not to long ago, I just took some high end speaker wire I had and spliced in the connector back into the sensor. It made it longer which was nice, and I'm not throwing any codes. Is this bad enough to warrant a replacement or should it be fine?