240sx Clutch and Flywheel Swap

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240sx Clutch and Flywheel Swap

Postby AZhitman » Sat Apr 08, 2006 4:40 pm

by Shawn Schembri


If you own a 240sx, you NEED to know how to replace your clutch. The procedure can be daunting at first, but it is actually a pretty straightforward removal/install. If this is your first time, it is a good idea to have someone with experience to guide you through it.

Difficulty: ***

Time: 4-6 hours

Cost: $350-$500


- socket wrenches, ratchets, long extensions, universals- screwdriver- jack and stands (extra jack or transmission lift is optional but recommended)- hand pump- a friend


- clutch kit (disc, TOB, pilot bushing, alignment tool)- flywheel (new or resurfaced)- transmission oil


Disconnect battery terminals

Remove shifter:

Jack up car so the 4 tires are off the ground and try to get it high as possible in order to pull the transmission out from under the car; shake to ensure safety.

For some applications you may have to remove the exhaust.

Drain transmission oil by removing the drain plug.

Remove driveshaft by unbolting it at the rear differential and the driveshaft support; then pull out of transmission.

Remove slave cylinder from transmission and support it so that the hose does not tear.

Remove all wiring from the transmission (harness unplug).

Remove starter and support.

Support transmission with floor jacks; one on the bell housing side and one on the driveshaft side.

Unbolt transmission (if s14; remove crank angle sensor located at top of bell housing). It is easiest to do from behind using your extensions and universals to get to the bolts at the top of the unit.

Unbolt rear transmission mount.

Now the tranny is ready to be pulled. You must grasp the tranny from the bell housing and driveshaft side and pull it toward the back of the car (use 2 people at least, this will be quite heavy). When it is about to be free, support it on a jack or lift and lower it out of the way carefully.

After transmission is removed, remove the pressure plate unbolting in a sequence directly across from opposite bolt (there is tension on the pressure plate).

Clutch disc will fall out when pressure plate is pulled off.

Remove flywheel; if using the same flywheel, be sure to resurface.

Remove pilot bushing inside crankshaft - NOTE: This is best done with a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer, which can be rented from most auto parts stores.

Replace pilot bushing with new one. Coat with grease, inside and out, before re-inserting.

Put back the resurfaced or new flywheel; be sure to torque at 105ft/lbs and tighten the bolts in sequence.

Install new clutch disc with alignment tool.

Install pressure plate over the suspended disc; Tighten the bolt slowly, more and more (1-2 turns each bolt) in sequence.

When pressure plate is flush be sure to torque at 22 ft/lbs.

Remove alignment tool.

On tranny, remove the old throw out bearing and replace with new one. Grease this as well.

Now the tranny is ready to be installed. You must grasp the tranny from the bell housing and drive side, lift it up/towards the front of the motor.

Be sure to align the tranny input shaft with pressure plate/clutch plate.

Then reinstall all the bolts, wiring, starter, slave cylinder, tranny mount, etc. in reverse of removal.

Make sure you fill your tranny up with gear oil, easiest way to do this is through the shifter hole. Approx 2.5 – 2.8 quarts. Remove the side plug when finished, fluid should be *right* at the bottom of the hole.

Break in period is about 500 miles of soft clutch engagement (recommend not exceeding 3,000 rpms!)

After that, let 'er rip!

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