I'm looking for a small light reliable RWD car, and the 240SX seems to be just what I want. Starting this weekend I'm going to go looking at them on dealer lots and through private sellers.
I checked the FAQ, but I didn't see a general Buyer's Guide. Has anyone written a comprehensive text of all the 240SX-specific problems to look out for when shopping around? If so, I'd really appreciate a link, thanks!
240sx Buyer's Guide?
Re: 240sx Buyer's Guide? (iKon)
No...there isn't, AFAIK. There really should be though.
Besides the usual stuff to look for on a used car...here's what I've experienced and learned from others.
* The 240SX from '89-90 has a SOHC 4 cylinder engine while the '91-'98 has a DOHC engine (also a 4). Both use timing chains and are interference engines.
A common problem among both engines is weak timing chain tensioners (which are operated by oil pressure) resulting in a characteristic tapping sound near the front of the engine. Problems with the chain tensioners result in the chain slapping against the chain guides or the tensioner itself. The resulting sound is known as the Timing Chain Rattle of Death.
Usual symptoms are a tapping or rattling sound at startup or cold idle (or possibly even at idle while warm, depending on how bad the problem is). This sound will come from the front of the engine and, if it's an upper tensioner, will sound like it's coming from right under the valve cover at the front.
Fixing the timing chain isn't exactly difficult if you have decent mechanical knowledge and access to tools, but it's very time consuming. Expect to pay around $1000 if you take it to a Nissan dealer and have both chains, all guides, all tensioners replaced.
* Watch out for rust if your car has the stock spoiler. Water tends to seep underneath it and rust out the trunk lid. Also look for rust in the spare tire well. The seals around the rear tail lights can go bad, allowing water to leak in to the trunk.
* Nissan used, for lack of a better word, goo-filled rubber bushings. Check any bushings, TC Rods, subframe bushings to make sure they aren't cracking and oozing goo.
* Make sure the dust boots on the struts are still intact. My front strut boots were torn, which allowed road grime to get on the strut piston and eventually blow out the strut. After a few years, the OE boots deteriorate in to a pile of rubber rings.
* The synchros in the 240SX transmission can be a bit touchy. A lot of people experience a bit of trouble with 2nd or 3rd gear. Mine aren't bad, but 2nd gear is pretty rough on a cold winter day until the car warms up a bit.
Other than that, the 240SX is a pretty stout car. The KA engines are torquey and big (2.4L) for 4 cylinders and are pretty damn tough. They tend not to have a lot of top end while stock, and aren't real rev happy.
Make sure the car idles steady when warm at about 750rpm or so and just watch out for any rust.
I'm sure others will have better stuff to contribute (or correct my mistakes).
Edit: BTW, Welcome to NICO!!!
Besides the usual stuff to look for on a used car...here's what I've experienced and learned from others.
* The 240SX from '89-90 has a SOHC 4 cylinder engine while the '91-'98 has a DOHC engine (also a 4). Both use timing chains and are interference engines.
A common problem among both engines is weak timing chain tensioners (which are operated by oil pressure) resulting in a characteristic tapping sound near the front of the engine. Problems with the chain tensioners result in the chain slapping against the chain guides or the tensioner itself. The resulting sound is known as the Timing Chain Rattle of Death.
Usual symptoms are a tapping or rattling sound at startup or cold idle (or possibly even at idle while warm, depending on how bad the problem is). This sound will come from the front of the engine and, if it's an upper tensioner, will sound like it's coming from right under the valve cover at the front.
Fixing the timing chain isn't exactly difficult if you have decent mechanical knowledge and access to tools, but it's very time consuming. Expect to pay around $1000 if you take it to a Nissan dealer and have both chains, all guides, all tensioners replaced.
* Watch out for rust if your car has the stock spoiler. Water tends to seep underneath it and rust out the trunk lid. Also look for rust in the spare tire well. The seals around the rear tail lights can go bad, allowing water to leak in to the trunk.
* Nissan used, for lack of a better word, goo-filled rubber bushings. Check any bushings, TC Rods, subframe bushings to make sure they aren't cracking and oozing goo.
* Make sure the dust boots on the struts are still intact. My front strut boots were torn, which allowed road grime to get on the strut piston and eventually blow out the strut. After a few years, the OE boots deteriorate in to a pile of rubber rings.
* The synchros in the 240SX transmission can be a bit touchy. A lot of people experience a bit of trouble with 2nd or 3rd gear. Mine aren't bad, but 2nd gear is pretty rough on a cold winter day until the car warms up a bit.
Other than that, the 240SX is a pretty stout car. The KA engines are torquey and big (2.4L) for 4 cylinders and are pretty damn tough. They tend not to have a lot of top end while stock, and aren't real rev happy.
Make sure the car idles steady when warm at about 750rpm or so and just watch out for any rust.
I'm sure others will have better stuff to contribute (or correct my mistakes).
Edit: BTW, Welcome to NICO!!!
^ some good info. Those are the main problems a lot of 240 owners run into. A lot of 240s have idleing problems, like said above, and it can be a wide range of causes, some relativly easy to fix, some not. Also, here are some decent sites for checking out features and specs for the different 240 years.http://www.socal240sx.com/http://30moon ... ex.phpgood luck finding one!
Re: (bcar240)
We really should try to compile a Buyer's Guide to the 240SX and have it here as an article or a sticky. It's nice to find a little intro to the car in one place instead of randomly searching for problems other people have typically had.
Does that make any sense or was it as convoluted as it sounded in my head?
Does that make any sense or was it as convoluted as it sounded in my head?
Re: (BadMojo)
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it!
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Doomed2Walk
- Posts: 1083
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- Car: 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi WRBP on gold
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Welcome to NICO, be patient and look for a 240sx in good condition, because then you'll end up with less heartache and a fatter wallet. I wasn't very patient when I bought my car, so I ended up overpaying and had a few problems I needed/still need to fix. As for my 95, I had a faulty o2 sensor causing the check engine light to stay on, and the cruise control just suddenly stoped working, I know I'm not the only one with a 95 who has had these problems. Just in case you don't know, S13s (89-94) came in coupe, hatch and convertibles, S14s (95-98) had a minor change in looks for the 97-98 model years. 89-95s are OBDI I believe and 96-98 are OBDII. That's my two cents, hopefully it will help you to figure out which year you want to buy.
Re: (IWannaS15)
Great info! I'm also in the same boat but know that I should be patient if I want a keeper.
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ILikeMy240sx
- Posts: 5358
- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
- Car: SR Power
1. Speedometer/Odometer not working...I know both S13 and S14 experience this problem. Spdo will work then all of a sudden go to zero and then start jumping... Odo will not work even when the spdo is on... funky probs. It could be the spd sensor or the gear on the spd sensor (spd sensor is pricey but the gear is 23 dollars. If the gear is worn but sensor is fine just replace the gear)... As for the odometer, it could be the gears not in place in the gauge cluster.
2. Oh yea and look for rattling in the interior. Most 240s have different rattling at each RPM like mine... For ex, at 2000 rpm my door insert will start to rattle then goes away at 3000rpm but at 3000rpm some other things will start to rattle... so annoying
3. If you are getting a car with a sunroof look for sunroof whistling/rattling/leaking
those are my addition... hope this helps
2. Oh yea and look for rattling in the interior. Most 240s have different rattling at each RPM like mine... For ex, at 2000 rpm my door insert will start to rattle then goes away at 3000rpm but at 3000rpm some other things will start to rattle... so annoying
3. If you are getting a car with a sunroof look for sunroof whistling/rattling/leaking
those are my addition... hope this helps