Wanted to share this over here, I did this with my 19 Maxima and just added it to my wife's 23 Rogue Platinum. This should work in any model that has a powered rearview mirror that does auto dimming.

Essentially you will be jacking into the power for the rearview mirror and it is a 5 minute install with a very short USB cable that is easily hid behind the mirror.

First you need to get in your passenger seat and confirm the plug size for the mirror. You can easily remove it by pushing in the center clip(it is vertical facing from the passenger side).

Look at the plug and confirm how many pins it is. For both the Rogue and Maxima it is 10 pins on ours, most likely the same for you.

You can buy this product that splits off a USB port off of that.

Dongar Dashcam Power Adapter https://a.co/d/fywvI5T

When you receive it you will simply remove your rearview power cable again, plug in the Dongar cable and then plug your power cable into the Dongar leaving you with a free USB port.

Now all you need is a USB powered dashcam. The cable allows a maximum of 5v 2a output. Personally we use this one that is 5v 1a draw over USB. This dashcam also comes with a static cling that makes it easy to remove and put back.

VIOFO A119 V3 https://a.co/d/brx7r48
(Power draw shown here under product details: https://viofo.com/dash-cam/143-a119-v3- ... h-cam.html)

One caveat to be aware of. This is not a solution for 24/7 recording. When the car is off the power to the mirror drops(in the Maxima this is immediate, in the Rogue the mirror stays powered a few minutes).

You won't need to do any of that, and for the price of that low end
camera, you can buy a decent one with the three conductor wire
like it's supposed to have.

I have wired in my own USB ports that are hidden. You're kind of
over complicating a simple install, and your post is an AD for that
product, seeing as it is your one and only post.

There is a fusebox on the left side of the dashboard with all the power
requirements you will ever need. The good cameras have B+, Ignition, and
ground. The camera is always powered by a B+ source. When you turn the
ignition on, it just powers up the camera for use. When you shut the car off,
it loses the +12 ignition and goes into Park mode, powered by the B+ source
in a lower current consumption mode because it doesn't need the screen or
other functions while moving.

That camera is crap for $99.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 16, 2023 10:07 pm

You're kind of over complicating a simple install.

There is a fusebox on the left side of the dashboard with all the power
requirements you will ever need. The good cameras have B+, Ignition, and
ground. The camera is always powered by a B+ source. When you turn the
ignition on, it just powers up the camera for use. When you shut the car off,
it loses the +12 ignition and goes into Park mode, powered by the B+ source
in a lower current consumption mode because it doesn't need the screen or
other functions while moving.

+1
There's also an accessory expansion connector on each side above the kick panels, with a matching pigtail you can buy from Nissan that gives you access without tapping wires or fuses. That's where the Nissan OE accessory cams hook up.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 16, 2023 10:07 pm

You won't need to do any of that, and for the price of that low end
camera, you can buy a decent one with the three conductor wire
like it's supposed to have.

I have wired in my own USB ports that are hidden. You're kind of
over complicating a simple install, and your post is an AD for that
product, seeing as it is your one and only post.

There is a fusebox on the left side of the dashboard with all the power
requirements you will ever need. The good cameras have B+, Ignition, and
ground. The camera is always powered by a B+ source. When you turn the
ignition on, it just powers up the camera for use. When you shut the car off,
it loses the +12 ignition and goes into Park mode, powered by the B+ source
in a lower current consumption mode because it doesn't need the screen or
other functions while moving.

That camera is crap for $99.

Sweet mate, I'm not interested in running any wires to the fuse box thus powering it through the mirror. There's no attachment to this camera to install this way, any USB powered camera that doesn't pull more than 5v 2a is fine.

There's no advertising agenda, I'm just sharing a product I like and I don't have much to say about the Rogue other than the audio system is incredibly disappointing compared to my Maxima.

ViofoA119 is actually pretty decent for a cheap Dashcam. I even use a even cheaper by nearly a half in the rear.

After so many years, I never needed it for a personal crash, but I caught a few collisions happening in front of me.

I won't get into this camera debate, but an FYI for everybody about the wires, routing them down the A-pillar on a gen2 or gen3 is actually incredibly easy. The A-pillar trim just pops loose and so does the roof console, and there's enough give at the front edge of the headlining to stuff wires up there without dropping anything else. Then just pass the wires through the same opening the Main Harness uses coming out of the dash and pull them through to their destination. If you use the OE accessory port with an OE pigtail, you're never touching the harnesses at all. So there are zero warranty concerns, unlike T-tapping existing wires.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 17, 2023 2:26 pm

I won't get into this camera debate, but an FYI for everybody about the wires, routing them down the A-pillar on a gen2 or gen3 is actually incredibly easy. The A-pillar trim just pops loose and so does the roof console, and there's enough give at the front edge of the headlining to stuff wires up there without dropping anything else. Then just pass the wires through the same opening the Main Harness uses coming out of the dash and pull them through to their destination. If you use the OE accessory port with an OE pigtail, you're never touching the harnesses at all. So there are zero warranty concerns, unlike T-tapping existing wires.

VStar - What about the Gen 1 (2013)? Is there an accessory port above the kick panels? I don't see one. Can you run a wire/cable down the A pillar?

I'll have to look, but I'm pretty sure the gen1's had an accessory port too. I'll let you know for sure later when I get to the shop. Routing down the A-pillar is definitely similar on a gen1, it isn't difficult.

Nope, no accessory port on the gen1's. That started with the gen2's. On gen1's the ignition-powered accessories mostly picked up power from the outside mirror switch, you can get +Ignition and ground right there. If you need +Batt then you need to go to the fusebox. Routing down the A-pillar is just as easy as a gen2, the pillar trim just pops loose and you twist the plastic airbag clips with a needlenose to disengage them (they're supposed to be non-reuse but no one does that). If you google instructions for a 999L1-VW102 Homelink mirror it shows step-by-step.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 20, 2023 5:21 am

Nope, no accessory port on the gen1's. That started with the gen2's. On gen1's the ignition-powered accessories mostly picked up power from the outside mirror switch, you can get +Ignition and ground right there. If you need +Batt then you need to go to the fusebox. Routing down the A-pillar is just as easy as a gen2, the pillar trim just pops loose and you twist the plastic airbag clips with a needlenose to disengage them (they're supposed to be non-reuse but no one does that). If you google instructions for a 999L1-VW102 Homelink mirror it shows step-by-step.

Hey there VStar. It looks like there IS an accessory port on the Gen 1 but it's at the bottom of the center console box with a cover over it. The manual says it's for an iPod. I'll have to figure out if there is a pigtail adapter available to get 12v out of it somehow. Not a very convenient location...
I currently have a rear view mirror mounted dash cam with the power running around the edge of the headliner then down the B Pillar and over to the cigarette lighter power connector in the console box. It would be nice to bring a 2 conductor power cable down the A Pillar then under the seat to the box. unless there's a better way...

Can you post a pic? I can't find any documentation for an option connector in that area, but they might just be calling it a "wire to wire" connection.

That iPod connector won't have 12V on it, because it's a 5V device.
It will have 5V. 12V to the module, but not to the plug sides.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 21, 2023 1:15 am

That iPod connector won't have 12V on it, because it's a 5V device.
It will have 5V. 12V to the module, but not to the plug sides.

+1
You'd have to tap the wiring behind the port, not take power from the iPod connector on the outside.

Actually, you can't even do that. The iPod port on the gen1's is driven by a dedicated iPod Adaptor located behind the glove box, so the only power available at the port itself is 5V. There's no 12V at all on the console connector, although there is 12V at the power socket next to it.

Actually, you can't even do that. The iPod port on the gen1's is driven by a dedicated iPod Adaptor located behind the glove box, so the only power available at the port itself is 5V. There's no 12V at all on the console connector, although there is 12V at the power socket next to it.