20b 3 rotor in a s13

[WDRacing]

Also, most LSx motors are square or oversquare. There is no reason they can't rev past 7000 rpms w/ an upgraded valvetrain.

And they do...

[cnichols]

And they do...

Exactly...8000 even for those who switch to solid lifters.

I just don't see any advantage to going rotary was my point in case anybody missed it.

[p1rat3]

Yeah I know a kid thats a mega rotor head and he told me not to put on in because of maitneince

[speedfrommc2]

Rotory is to much maintence

[nismofly]

if rules require a rotary or a rotary RX is the best choice for a class then by all means they can be good, but for cost and repair purposes if you have the choice of engines i wouldnt choose one

i beg to differ that they dont sound good though

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8K9RGUF3Bo

[JustinStrife]

if rules require a rotary or a rotary RX is the best choice for a class then by all means they can be good, but for cost and repair purposes if you have the choice of engines i wouldnt choose one

i beg to differ that they dont sound good though

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8K9RGUF3Bo

Not a weedwacker guy myself.

[nismofly]

normal street rotaries sound buzzy and stuff, but for some reason a high build level rotary screams like an open wheel engine...that one i posted, the grand am rx8's, the 787b, all sound incredible

[WDRacing]

Not a weedwacker guy myself.

Me either...I just threw up in my mouth. I'd rather listen to a rape whistle over and over again...lol.

[ShootToKill]

well with every one here comparing the 20b to the ls1. i guess i can throw in my .02, being someone who has owned both an s13 and a rx7. both motors make about the same amount of power. ls1 is around 400hp i believe, and the 20b is around 380hp. weight wise i have no idea what the exact lsx w/ t56 weighs but i'm sure that its enough. now i do know what the 20b with fc/fd trans weighs in around 280lbs, trans is only 60lbs of that. i have owned both an fc and an s13, and both were relatively well modified, hands down the fc will run circles around the s13, in terms of handling, balance, and performance.

now i don't know what you plan on doing with this car. if this is your daily, not such a good idea. the 20b is a very finicky motor, as all rotaries are. and tuning, crazy idea, its a 20b, it makes almost 400hp, leave it stock. its a rotary, so don't think your gas milage is going to be good either. but if you are going for unique and fun, go for it. its something i have been wanting to do with a 13b-re or 13b-rew. the only problems you would run into in this swap, would be the ecu and wiring, which your only real choices would be standalone (megasquirt, microtech, link, etc.) and then finding some one who is really good at tuning rotaries (steve kan), but i don't know where your located.

as for the racing crap, i don't think he plans on running 24 hour leman any time soon. either way you go with this, its your car, do what you want with it. and yea rotaries pop every 10k miles, thats why mine went out at 160k mi.

[Higman Racing]

you basically have an rx7

[stay_sideways]

"tmepermental lawnmower engines thats all they are"? r u retared? the only reason people talk **** on rotary's is because they r too scraed to build 1 up properly. a big reason y they pop is because the twin turbo set up is too complictaed and converting to a single turbo makes more, reliable power and way less maintainence. learn ur **** b4 u talk it.

[SouthSideSlider]

ok i have had less problems and matniance to do on my FC which i have had twice as long as my 240SX as i have had on the KA24DE. the killer for a rotory einge isn't the torque curve(folows the power there is torque just not where its needed),relability only if you over boost or rebiuld and dont alow break in periode,the killer for todays consumer is fuel consumptuion. rotorys are gas gusseling little beasts be they the 12a,13B,20B,26B(4 rotor),or 13G(PP 3 rotor roughly 1000hp acording to Racing beat) a 20B is realy a waist of money its expensive probably as much as a nice RB25 or RB26. the 13B turbo is a much better decision. 13Bs are plentiful. Crowsport sells the motors. they have 20Bs but as i said it'll be hard. yes tuning rotorys requires a fine touch and a knowlage of the engine but so does everything. personally im swaping my FCs N/a 13B 6 port for a cosmo twin turbo 13B and have been thinking about making an RB30DET motor for my 240SX since i bought the car.

[WDRacing]

"tmepermental lawnmower engines thats all they are"? r u retared? the only reason people talk **** on rotary's is because they r too scraed to build 1 up properly. a big reason y they pop is because the twin turbo set up is too complictaed and converting to a single turbo makes more, reliable power and way less maintainence. learn ur **** b4 u talk it.

Um...before you go acting like a guru. In stock twin turbo form the rotary is a great motor. It's when you boost the hell out of them, which is usually done after a big single swap, that things become unreliable.

If by building one properly you mean use good Apex seals and hand port the plates then you're on the same level as we are. The hardest part is tuning. The building process and porting the plates isn't some mystical science.

Regardless, our opinions are our opinions. I will never swap in a low torque motor. There is no point. Also, lets assume the common goal is 600whp. The rotary will never make it as affordable or as reliable as a Domestic V8...any Domestic V8.

WD

[WDRacing]

RB30E block with a RB25 head would be an excellent project man. A T3/TO4S or even a a full frame TO4 will get you a totally reliable 500whp with little to no lag at all and torque for days.

WD

[Joe]

"tmepermental lawnmower engines thats all they are"? r u retared? the only reason people talk **** on rotary's is because they r too scraed to build 1 up properly. a big reason y they pop is because the twin turbo set up is too complictaed and converting to a single turbo makes more, reliable power and way less maintainence. learn ur **** b4 u talk it.

learn my ****?

are you kidding me?

in stock form the TT from the FD is amazing and completely reliable. its when people upgrade them to make real power they turn to garbage. just because i dont like rotaries doesnt mean i dont understand how they work and why they arent reliable, and also why they turn to absolute **** with a good power number.

you are 18 years old, you dont know the first thing about real power and how to make a car reliable.

[nismofly]

rotaries can make good numbers and still be reliable in NA form, its mainly the boosted ones that have problems

the 20B's in the rolex series rx8's use stock FC 9.7:1 compression rotors, yet with the PP or bridge port (cant remember which one is more extreme) they make 420 rwhp NA...

the other thing you can do to make them bulletproof is to run the ceramic apex seals that cost like $1500 a set

basically rotaries just cost more to do the same thing