2023 Versa S keyless entry

[Genz]

Yeah i told the lock smith to change the electrical board or something, but the tech-specialist said that he cannot do it, saying there is something different between the official fob and the after-market one.

Thank you for for everything vic, you are the one who made it possible. The Versa is a nice car, but I really hope it can go with a remote in the beginning!

[HR16DEMT]

Hello Everyone was wondering. What was the last known update for the trunk popper? Is it possible to make it work some how ?

[Tombo]

Hello Everyone was wondering. What was the last known update for the trunk popper? Is it possible to make it work some how ?

It appears that the user that figured it out just wanted to announce that he figured it out without offering any sort of solution for the rest of us.

[HR16DEMT]

I hope we get some instructions. Please let us know when possible to the user that figured it out it would be a nice feature to make the fob work its Versatility. Thanks in Advance.!

[vic831]

Not easy, you have to install an electric actuator in the trunk lid, then run a wire from the ECU after figuring out which of the dozens of “ pins” to connect to.

Not very easy for your average owner, and I don’t think anyone has done it

[dave35]

Hi,
I am new to the forum. First off, I want to thank all of you for your hard work in solving the RKE issue. I recently purchased a 2024 Versa S manual. I bought the '22 Fob and the eBay switchblade keys. I did the circuit board swap as instructed on this forum and had the key cut.
First, I purchased a scan tool that will program keys. When trying it myself I found out I needed a 20-digit rolling code (from Nissan) that is only good once and I would have to erase all keys to proceed. I gave up on this method. I called several locksmiths and explained the situation. Not one was willing to try. They said they didn't have '24 in their scanner and were afraid '22 would brick the car. Even though I said I was ok with this, they wouldn't try. Next, I brought it to the Nissan dealer. I explained what I wanted to do. They said $170 whether it worked or not. I sat in the lobby for 1.5 hours. When they came back, they said it wouldn't work because it was a base model. They said they tried and tried but couldn't get the car to accept the key/fob. (I am skeptical that they even tried.) They did not charge me. That was good! Anyway, I decided I had spent enough money and time on this route (even though I do believe it will work) and decided to go old school. I do all of my own vehicle repairs and I am not afraid to rip apart a brand-new car...so that is what I did, and I have a $20 dollar solution to share with everyone!
I purchased a $20 universal keyless entry kit from eBay and after much trial and error I found a solution. My first intent was to mount the control box under the dashboard as usual. I soon found out there is a solid Molex type connector at the cabin side of the rubber chase way in the doorjamb. This makes it almost impossible to pass a wire through the door jamb into the cabin. I also would be unable to identify the wires in the kick panel. So, I decided to mount the controller inside the door. The controller I bought (I think the cheap ones are all the same) came with 11 wires. You will only need 6 of these wires (7 if you hook up the light/horn). I did not hook up the wire to flash the lights or honk the horn. I just decided it wasn't worth figuring out how to route and hook up the wires. (Especially with so much of this car controlled by the BCM.) I used the following wires on the controller: Red,Black,Yellow,Yellow/Black,White/Black,and White. What I did: *Unhook the battery. *Remove the door panel. (Here is a great video removing a door https://youtu.be/gXnFfP5ugDwpanel.) *Splice the red wire to the teal wire on the small connector at back of switches. *Splice the white/black to the light brown wire (unlock). *Splice the white wire to light blue (lock). *Splice black, yellow/black and yellow together and ground to the door body. I found a perfect spot where the controller will fit under the door panel and mounted it with self-tapping screws. I needed to put shims under the mounting tabs to make them flush. I also put some 3M tape on the sides of the circuit board inside the controller. It was very loose and rattling around inside the case. I unpinned all unused wires from the controller for a nice clean look. Everything works great! The dome light comes on when the doors are unlocked.
I hope this write up will help others install RKE on their Versas. I will add pics to this post. Caution: This most certainly will void parts of your warranty! If you decide to try this PLEASE make sure you are comfortable doing this kind of work. If not, have someone else do it. Also PLEASE double check the functions of your wiring as the colors may not be universal. I highly recommend soldering all connections and using shrink tube. I will be installing another kit on my wife’s Versa as well and I am in the process of adding fog lights, ambient floor lighting, and heated mirrors. I hope to share these projects as well.

[Tombo]

Hi,
I am new to the forum. First off, I want to thank all of you for your hard work in solving the RKE issue. I recently purchased a 2024 Versa S manual. I bought the '22 Fob and the eBay switchblade keys. I did the circuit board swap as instructed on this forum and had the key cut.
First, I purchased a scan tool that will program keys. When trying it myself I found out I needed a 20-digit rolling code (from Nissan) that is only good once and I would have to erase all keys to proceed. I gave up on this method. I called several locksmiths and explained the situation. Not one was willing to try. They said they didn't have '24 in their scanner and were afraid '22 would brick the car. Even though I said I was ok with this, they wouldn't try. Next, I brought it to the Nissan dealer. I explained what I wanted to do. They said $170 whether it worked or not. I sat in the lobby for 1.5 hours. When they came back, they said it wouldn't work because it was a base model. They said they tried and tried but couldn't get the car to accept the key/fob. (I am skeptical that they even tried.) They did not charge me. That was good! Anyway, I decided I had spent enough money and time on this route (even though I do believe it will work) and decided to go old school. I do all of my own vehicle repairs and I am not afraid to rip apart a brand-new car...so that is what I did, and I have a $20 dollar solution to share with everyone!
I purchased a $20 universal keyless entry kit from eBay and after much trial and error I found a solution. My first intent was to mount the control box under the dashboard as usual. I soon found out there is a solid Molex type connector at the cabin side of the rubber chase way in the doorjamb. This makes it almost impossible to pass a wire through the door jamb into the cabin. I also would be unable to identify the wires in the kick panel. So, I decided to mount the controller inside the door. The controller I bought (I think the cheap ones are all the same) came with 11 wires. You will only need 6 of these wires (7 if you hook up the light/horn). I did not hook up the wire to flash the lights or honk the horn. I just decided it wasn't worth figuring out how to route and hook up the wires. (Especially with so much of this car controlled by the BCM.) I used the following wires on the controller: Red/Black/Yellow, Black/White, Black/Yellow and White. What I did: *Unhook the battery. *Remove the door panel. (Here is a great video removing a door https://youtu.be/gXnFfP5ugDwpanel.) *Splice the red wire to the teal wire on the small connector at back of switches. *Splice the white/black to the light brown wire (unlock). *Splice the white wire to light blue (lock). *Splice black, yellow/black and yellow together and ground to the door body. I found a perfect spot where the controller will fit under the door panel and mounted it with self-tapping screws. I needed to put shims under the mounting tabs to make them flush. I also put some 3M tape on the sides of the circuit board inside the controller. It was very loose and rattling around inside the case. Everything works great! The dome light comes on when the doors are unlocked.
I hope this write up will help others install RKE on their Versas. I will add pics to this post. Caution: This most certainly will void parts of your warranty! If you decide to try this PLEASE make sure you are comfortable doing this kind of work. If not, have someone else do it. Also PLEASE double check the functions of your wiring as the colors may not be universal. I highly recommend soldering all connections and using shrink tube. I will be installing another kit on my wife’s Versa as well and I am in the process of adding fog lights, ambient floor lighting, and heated mirrors. I hope to share these projects as well.

I broke off the passenger mirror when a deer came out of the woods. I replaced both mirrors with the heated mirrors from ebay. Obviously there's no wires in the door for this as my car didn't come equipped with them. I was going to wire them in, but I couldn't figure out a way from in the door to in the car. I didn't feel like pulling the doors off.

[VStar650CL]

If you really want them to work, I'd get a set of door and mirror connectors off a JY car (both sides, Door Harness and Main Harness) and unpin some wires out of them to use as pigtails. Then insert those into open positions in the existing connectors, extend the wires, and patch the heaters into the rear window defogger circuit. It won't be simple, but it won't be rocket science either. If I didn't already get you a PDF wiring diagram, post or PM your email and I'll get you one.

[Tombo]

If you really want them to work, I'd get a set of door and mirror connectors off a JY car (both sides, Door Harness and Main Harness) and unpin some wires out of them to use as pigtails. Then insert those into open positions in the existing connectors, extend the wires, and patch the heaters into the rear window defogger circuit. It won't be simple, but it won't be rocket science either. If I didn't already get you a PDF wiring diagram, post or PM your email and I'll get you one.

One day I'll get ambitious enough to pull the doors off to do the job. That day isn't going to be in warmer months though.

[VStar650CL]

The doors don't need to be pulled, just the inner panels. The umbilical connectors come loose with a pick and hook. Happy to help if you ever decide to do it.

[dave35]

Hi,
I ran my wire out of the rubber boot and inside the front fender to a relay under the hood.The wire is visible in the door jamb. Not the best option but it works. The wire is inside a loom as soon as possible. I added a switch inside the car and ran the trigger wire through the firewall to the relay. I used a fuse tap at the fuse panel in the kick panel for keyed power (used the washer fuse). The wiring is independent from the rest of the car except for the switch backlight. There is no timeout.

[Tombo]

The doors don't need to be pulled, just the inner panels. The umbilical connectors come loose with a pick and hook. Happy to help if you ever decide to do it.

I pulled the panel, found the wires on the mirror side, and tried to see a way through the door boot into the car. I couldn't see any way to do it without removing the door and didn't want to do that right now. Admittedly, I only looked at the driver's door.

[jlert]

Good luck

I actually found it for $221.98 with key using the part number you provided. Ordered one this afternoon after calling my local dealership and asking about it. I'm not the first to call them about the lack of pictures and they assured me that it was the correct flip out key for the 2022 Versa.

Did you get the H0561-5EF0C complete fob and key blank?
Or the 28268-5EA1A fob only ? I see now you were trying to find the H0561 combo and the pictures on the site don’t match, terrible.
Have all you keys present when programming. And if you got the 28268 fob you will need a non chip dummy key to turn the ignition during programming. Good job on your perseverance.

Simply wanted to report on my experience, so so thankful for this thread... good news, this worked for me on my 2023 MT Versa!!

I bought the fob 26268-5EA1A from the dealership, purchased and cut a non-transponder key at Home Depot for $5, then back to the dealership to program the fob (using non chip dummy) and my two other factory chip keys.

I didn't actually explain anything to the service advisor, simply said that I purchased the remote from their parts department and needed it programmed. Crossed my fingers hoping they knew what to do and along with my oil change the car was ready in a few short hours.

I have keyless entry now, woohoo!!

Thanks so much for the help vic831 and everyone else.

[VersaFan]

To start let me say thanks to everyone who’s provided details around getting Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) enabled on the Versa S. I recently purchased a 2024 with a 5 speed, and was excited to see that the Body Control Module was still capable of sending unlock / lock commands to all four doors via a remote. I’m hoping the following (particularly the programming piece) might be useful for others who wish to add the functionality to their own vehicles.

The Gear
I started by purchasing the recommended gear: 1 Nissan fob 28268-5EA1A, and K-EM019 key blanks (more on that later.)




Research
Next I did a little digging on alldata just to see what the 2024 immobolizer system (NATS in Nissan speak) looked liked. Overall it looked pretty straight forward, and similar to other systems in the factory manuals posted on this website. At a high level the key sends a wireless signal to the NATS antenna amp located around the ignition cylinder lock. The signal then heads to the BCM and ECM and only a key with a registered key ID can start the engine. Additionally it notes that the key registration procedure erases the current NATS ID once, and then re-registers a new ID. And to have all the desired keys to be programmed on hand before starting. The programming process stores the transponder ID (integrated in the mechanical key) to the BCM.

Proximity Smart key System Tester
I have a standalone smart key tester and therefore did a little bit of testing with the original keys and the new RKE fob. When prompted, the transponder keys that came with the car talk to the NATS immobolizer located around the ignition lock cylinder on the 125KHz band.



Same thing with the new unprogrammed fob (28268-5EA1A)



Meanwhile, pressing any button on the new RKE fob (lock/unlock) registered activity at approximately 433MHz. The frequency changes slightly with each button press.



Everything here was as expected.

[VersaFan]

Cutting the key
I ended up using the same key blank recommended previously in this thread. I bought them from DKHardware. There were a couple surprises when I opened the package. First, I thought I had bought 4 key blanks, but what I ended up with was four 5-packs (20 keys in all). Second, the 5 pack bags each had a set of retaining pins - this was nice because I fully expected to have to hunt at the local hardware store for something to secure the blade to the RKE fob.

Getting the physical key cut was the hardest part of this whole project. The Home Depots and Lowes in my area have converted to the automated kiosk cutting machines. I had to visit a couple smaller hardware stores in the area until I found one with a manual machine. Almost everyone I spoke to about cutting the key kept stressing (rightly) that I needed a key with an immobolizer chip in it. Eventually I found a store that was willing to cut the blank when I said I just need this key to lock/unlock the car without starting the engine.

All the key parts now in hand I went ahead and assembled the flip fob. The blade from DKHwardware was a snug fit, but with a little muscle it will slide into the OEM fob far enough to insert the retaining pin. I like the retaining pins that came with the blank keys because they have serrated edges that create fiction, so I’m less worried about the retaining pin falling out at some point. I measured the pins that came with the blades and if you need a substitute I’d probably try to find a 1/16 inch wide x 1/4 inch long coiled spring pin (or maybe a tension pin?) at your local hardware store.



To help assemble the fob I used a watch repair kit that I happened to have handy - it was nice in that it had a small hammer and several pin/punches to drive the retaining pin in place. The kit I had on hand looked like this one:



But honestly I think any of the tools in my garage or around the house probably would’ve sufficed. At the end of it all, the recommended blank fit perfectly. I have no issues retracting or flipping out the cut blade key from the fob.

[VersaFan]

Programming the Car
Let me start by prefacing this section with I’m not by any means an expert in this realm. My only experience up to this point with factory immobolizer systems was a with a decades old Hyundai that had a smart key / push button start system that gave up. I ultimately had to replace the Smart Key Module ECU with a virgin unit from Hyundai and then reprogram all the smart keys back to the car.

My programmer is an Autel IM508, updated with the latest version of the immobolizer software for Nissans (v. 5.10 released 12/13/2024). I checked the tool to see what kind of support it had for the 2024 year and it looked pretty good - add a key, all keys lost, and remote learning were fully supported via OBD, with read password being partially supported on some models.



2023 and 2022 looked even better with full coverage via OBD.



There was no 2025 option. And here’s the decoder for the symbols in the above screenshots.



Given the all keys lost scenario was fully covered, I felt comfortable proceeding.
What follows are the steps that I took to get the RKE fob added to my Versa. Take this with a grain of salt - there are many programmers/scan tools out there each has their own workflow.

Step 1 - I selected the IMMO function on the main screen


Step 2 - Rather than providing the make, region, model, etc I let the programmer auto-vin the vehicle


Step 3 - At which point I was provided these instructions which I completed


Step 4 - Vehicle scanning and establishing communication in progress


Step 5 - After which I was dumped on this screen where I pick IMMO Status Scan


Step 6 - the scan came back with status codes on the relevant modules, that the car uses a blade key, 2 keys are currently programmed, and that the encryption is a 20 pin rolling code. The ECM fault was probably tripped when I was at the hardware store testing the freshly cut physical key - the mechanical portion worked so it allowed me to accessory-on the cars electronics, but because the immobolizer chip in the fob hadn’t been programmed yet it wouldn’t let me start the engine. At the end of this process I clear the code and it hasn’t come back since.


Step 7 - I clicked on the all keys lost (guided) button on the scan screen and was dropped into this screen where I promptly hit start


Step 8 - After which, this warning that all keys were to be erased made me pause for a second, but then clicked on yes to proceed


Step 9 - I followed the directions and started with one of my two factory keys and then clicked ok


Step 10 - Eventually it asked me to turn on the ignition


Step 11 - the security light (key symbol) on my instrument cluster eventually went out. I waited the requisite time and then hit ok


Step 12 - I don’t have a screenshot for this bit but I was prompted to add another key or just quit, repeating steps 8-10 I added the second factory key and the RKE fob.

Step 13 - once I added all the keys I wanted, the tool prompted me to reinsert the first programmed key


Step 14 - then turn off the ignition


Step 15 - then it told me I was done


Step 16 - and dumped me back on the all keys lost start screen


At this point I tried the fob and it worked! Lock to lock the car. Unlock button once for the driver’s door, unlock twice for all doors.

I cleared the previous ECM code and then reran the IMMO status scan and got confirmation that all three keys were registered.


So learnings? It’s a relatively straightforward process. The Autel programming tool does all the heavy lifting, no need to get the vehicle PIN, the IM508 does that automatically. Adding 3 more keys after the first key is programmed is roughly an additional 45 seconds of work. Total programming time from beginning to end was approximately 5 minutes.

Hope that helps.

[VStar650CL]

What a great writeup!

Getting the physical key cut was the hardest part of this whole project. The Home Depots and Lowes in my area have converted to the automated kiosk cutting machines. I had to visit a couple smaller hardware stores in the area until I found one with a manual machine. Almost everyone I spoke to about cutting the key kept stressing (rightly) that I needed a key with an immobolizer chip in it. Eventually I found a store that was willing to cut the blank when I said I just need this key to lock/unlock the car without starting the engine.

The only thing I'll add is that the key-cut code is entirely separate from the electronic codes, and any Nissan/Infiniti dealer can pull it up using your VIN. So there's no need to copy a key. Bring your VIN (full, not last 8) to the Parts Department, and they'll have a tech obtain the 5-digit cut code from ASIST. They plug that number into the cut machine and voila, a factory blade.

[vic831]

What a great writeup!

Getting the physical key cut was the hardest part of this whole project. The Home Depots and Lowes in my area have converted to the automated kiosk cutting machines. I had to visit a couple smaller hardware stores in the area until I found one with a manual machine. Almost everyone I spoke to about cutting the key kept stressing (rightly) that I needed a key with an immobolizer chip in it. Eventually I found a store that was willing to cut the blank when I said I just need this key to lock/unlock the car without starting the engine.

The only thing I'll add is that the key-cut code is entirely separate from the electronic codes, and any Nissan/Infiniti dealer can pull it up using your VIN. So there's no need to copy a key. Bring your VIN (full, not last 8) to the Parts Department, and they'll have a tech obtain the 5-digit cut code from ASIST. They plug that number into the cut machine and voila, a factory blade.

VStar Do you bring your prepurchased key blank to the parts department or do they have the key blanks in stock? Thank you

[VStar650CL]

Most Parts Departments have all kinds of blanks in stock, and they won't care whether the car uses a smart key but you want a hard key. Even on I-Key cars, people sometimes want emergency hard keys.

[vic831]

Hello Everyone was wondering. What was the last known update for the trunk popper? Is it possible to make it work some how ?

It appears that the user that figured it out just wanted to announce that he figured it out without offering any sort of solution for the rest of us.

Tombo this was a pitiful response from you considering you haven’t figured anything out for anyone yourself

[Tombo]

It appears that the user that figured it out just wanted to announce that he figured it out without offering any sort of solution for the rest of us.

Tombo this was a pitiful response from you considering you haven’t figured anything out for anyone yourself

How so? The user that figured out how to use the trunk pop feature on the versa s literally announced that they figured it out, but then when people asked how he went ghost.

[vic831]

I am the original OP. Something new to add. I just bought my 3rd new 23-24 Versa S, a 24 5mt. I was wanting a cheaper source for the flip key and took a chance with after market. The MOST important part is to look for fcc CWTWB1G767 I found 3 button flip remotes that have lock unlock and panic functions only. No trunk popper function which I don’t need coz there’s no actuator in the trunk anyway.

You can currently find these on eBay under search :
2014-2021 oem rogue flip style key H0561-4BA1B.
Only $24 remanufactured. I didn’t use these but I think they will work on the 23-24 Versa S. I would have tried this but I hadn’t discovered it yet.

I ordered my remotes from dkharware.com under part # RK-NIS-BA1B. They are currently $32 each plus shipping. They have the flip key uncut already in them. My locksmith used no special method to cut these. He programmed these using a Smart Pro unit in the obd port and using the flip key to turn the ignition key with the flashers on. They programmed my two key remotes and my 2 original plain chip keys for the Nissan limited 4 total. They only charged me $90 but it may be higher elsewhere.

VERY important: Their programmer only listed 22-24 year model versa S on 2/19/25. The 2025 wasn’t listed as yet. My locksmith told me he would be hesitant to try this on a 2025 coz he didn’t want to be liable for “bricking” a 2025 versa based on his previous bad experience with a Toyota Prius in the past.

This wouldn’t stop me of course if I had a 2025 especially with these cheaper remote options.
I took an $80 dollar chance plus a failed programming charge to see if this option would work.

If I was user of this forum I would not use the dealer to do this for me. I would search for a locksmith to help me with my prepurchased remotes that they can key cut themselves.

I have paired remotes now with (2) 2023 Versa S and
(1) 2024 Versa S. I wish I knew if this will work on a 2025. I hope someone tries.

May I say the Versa is an amazing car as I hear that production may stop in April 25. The last cheap ICE car in the US the last of the Mohicans. The last 5 speed manual. Looks like they changed the seat upholstery pattern on the S for 2025. Hopefully the bcm programming is unchanged. Good luck everyone.

[vic831]

Tombo this was a pitiful response from you considering you haven’t figured anything out for anyone yourself

How so? The user that figured out how to use the trunk pop feature on the versa s literally announced that they figured it out, but then when people asked how he went ghost.

Nobody figured it out. There’s no actuator at the lock and there is no wire run from the bcm.
But you make a snide remark like somebody did figure out an easy fix and then abandoned the forum and denying everybody the fix. Have you figured any solutions or helped anyone?

[Tombo]

How so? The user that figured out how to use the trunk pop feature on the versa s literally announced that they figured it out, but then when people asked how he went ghost.

Nobody figured it out. There’s no actuator at the lock and there is no wire run from the bcm.
But you make a snide remark like somebody did figure out an easy fix and then abandoned the forum and denying everybody the fix. Have you figured any solutions or helped anyone?

Except for someone DID claim to have figured out how to make the trunk pop work. That's exactly what I was referencing.

[Tombo]

User name Thasman in this thread.

post6851289.html#p6851289

As for what I've figured out, I found the tpms sensors on amazon that don't need any work to get working with our cars. There's likely more, but the Versa is the wife's car and she's not much into customizing or adding any extras to her car. Just because you didn't see it vic, doesn't mean it didn't happen.

[vic831]

What have you contributed to this keyless issue specifically ? The person you were responding to was innocently asking what was found out and you respond with a snide comment is all I’m saying.
And btw thank you for your tpms workaround.

[Tombo]

All I did was tell them that the person that claimed to have figured it out was not telling the rest of us what the solution was. I didn't make a snide remark towards the person that asked the question.

[VStar650CL]

C'mon, guys, don't blow this up. We've all made meaningful contributions here. Chill.

[vic831]

All I did was tell them that the person that claimed to have figured it out was not telling the rest of us what the solution was. I didn't make a snide remark towards the person that asked the question.

No you made a snide remark directed at me.
Me and VStar were the ones trying to find a fix.
But you’ll never get it. I guess we weren’t quick enough to spoon feed you the solutions.

[Tombo]

All I did was tell them that the person that claimed to have figured it out was not telling the rest of us what the solution was. I didn't make a snide remark towards the person that asked the question.

No you made a snide remark directed at me.
Me and VStar were the ones trying to find a fix.
But you’ll never get it. I guess we weren’t quick enough to spoon feed you the solutions.

No I didn't, but cool story bro