2021 Rogue Battery Replacement

[cmartyn]

Are there any gotchas on a 2021 Rogue battery replacement? Does the computer need to be told about the new battery or a different capacity or anything? Going to replace the EFB with an AGM battery. Was thinking of getting a ODYSSEE. The earlier service manuals mention a reset or a check list of stuff.

[VStar650CL]

Nope, no gotchas about the installation. However, the charge parameters for the "smart charge" setup on the gen3's is hostile to AGM's. You're probably better served with a deep cycle flooded.

[cmartyn]

Interesting. That makes sense. Of course, Nissan selling Nissan branded AGM batteries with seven year warranties as a replacement makes you wonder doesn't it. And only 499 installed. You would think the smart charging could be programmed for different batteries.

The EFB one in the car is now just over 4 years old and I noticed last night it was a little weak..

[VStar650CL]

There are "deep cycle AGM's" out there, but with regard to anything Nissan the problem is that no AGM should ever be charged at anything between 12.9V~13.4V. The minimum trickle charge for AGM's is 13.5V, and it's a pretty strict rule. In observing the "smart charge" on gen3's and most other Nissan products, we routinely see the charging systems drop into the forbidden window under light electrical load. AGM's also want a peak Vcharge of 14.8V, not the 14.4V of a flooded battery. This means the 14.1V~14.5V we typically see from Nissan alternators will chronically undercharge an AGM. Both of those circumstances will reduce battery life significantly.

Vis EFB's, we've had issues with the ones in the Rogue going back to the gen2's. The primary problem is testing. Even our DCA-8000 (which is otherwise a great tool) lies like a rug when testing discharged EFB's. Paradoxically, they only test right when they're already at a 12.6V~12.8V float. So don't expect the tester at AutoZone to tell you anything useful if you run it to the store right after a jumpstart. It won't.

[cmartyn]

Awesome,thanks for all that info about the low voltage charging. I was also thinking that it might let the charge drop.further than an AGM might like but that's just perception based on the owners manual talking about not attaching accesories to the battery negative so it can track.the current use.

[D1dad]

So essentially just roll into, say a Walmart and grab a normal group 47 battery off the shelf and avoid the overpriced agm?

[VStar650CL]

So essentially just roll into, say a Walmart and grab a normal group 47 battery off the shelf and avoid the overpriced agm?

Rofl yep. I can't tell customers that while I'm on the clock, but if I owned a gen3 or late gen2 with EFB, that's what I'd do. None of my rides have had anything but Walmart batteries for ages. The last one in the wife's '13 Altie lasted 6 full years. That was about $9 a year, not too bad.

[D1dad]

I’m at 4 yrs on a couple of them myself. I bought a cheap battery tester and they’re still testing at 90%. My 21 Altima is going on 4 yrs (stock) and is testing good at 85%. I got that tsb done and asked them for a battery quote and it was $359. I laughed and walked out. I do hook up my charger when I can and let it take my battery to 100% since Nissans never fully charge the battery so I think that helps keep them healthy.

[VStar650CL]

I do hook up my charger when I can and let it take my battery to 100% since Nissans never fully charge the battery so I think that helps keep them healthy.

Your surmise is correct. The "smart charge" really gets to be an issue with frequent short trips, because it can let the battery get so low that a single trip to the market can't replenish it. So the system gets into a toilet spiral where it can't catch up unless you deliberately take a long trip to top it up. It's worse with bigger batteries because the absolute amount that needs to be replenished is larger but the charge acceptance isn't commensurate, which is why stuff like Armada/QX80's and M56's have depletion issues more frequently than vehicles with smaller engines. It's also why they get sulfated more frequently. Trickle charging is a good idea that will prevent both.

[V6er]

@VStar650CL, As always - absolutely love your comments... it kinda explains why, probably, agm I bought for my subaru has gone bad (but didn't investigate enough voltages etc).

For T33 - can charging be done with battery connected to car?
And are there proper battery tester which have proven themselves to see how good/bad is battery(hopefully - in budgetty budget)?

[VStar650CL]

For T33 - can charging be done with battery connected to car?

Yes, no problem.

And are there proper battery tester which have proven themselves to see how good/bad is battery(hopefully - in budgetty budget)?

The main thing with all EFB batteries is to have them fully charged before testing. Regular testers will work fine on them, but only if they're at least about 80% charged. That's a "float" of a bit above 12.6V. Below that, I can pretty much guarantee the results will be meaningless. More than likely a "false good", which is of course annoying as s#it.

[cmartyn]

Well, I decided against a new battery for now, bought a ctek charger instead. The car has been sitting for about 3 days.. I put the charger on and it took about 4 hours to get to the end of the charge cycle. So.. well see. Have to go out tommorow.

[Dbarry]

Well, I decided against a new battery for now, bought a ctek charger instead. The car has been sitting for about 3 days.. I put the charger on and it took about 4 hours to get to the end of the charge cycle. So.. well see. Have to go out tommorow.

We're going to grab a Ctek charger as well. Good to hear it work just fine

[V6er]

I am using CCC(cheap china crap) with (supposedly) multiple stages... works fine