2018 Rogue SL Electronic Parking Brake-retract caliper piston

[blausser]

Hi everyone

New here, appreciate you letting me ask the question.

I am helping my neighbors son learn how to do his own car maintenance. Today, we tackled the brakes on his 2018 Nissan Rogue SL. Now, Ill start with: Im the idiot for not watching YouTube videos, but I figured “Its a Nissan, itll be like the other hundred brake jobs ive done”. Ha, yeah right. Front was super easy. Heres my problem now: His model has electronic parking brake, and I didnt put the car in service mode first BEFORE I removed the brake pads on one side. After pushing on the caliper piston for an hour and getting nowhere, we opened google and learned about service mode.

We then tried to fix the situation with my Carista OBD reader that says it can enable and disable service
Mode. The first time we logged in, we clicked the button to open the rotor and we saw it move slightly and made noise like it was working. But after doing that, it still wouldnt let me push the piston in far enough to mount the brake pads. Then, my son was trying to get the Carista app to open it further but it required him to restart the car. As soon as he pushed the brake to start, the caliper piston extended fully. Now we cant get it to move at all!

Any suggestions? Ive ordered a different obd system from amazon (Foxwell NT624), it looks “more robust “ than Carista and will be here tomorrow night. Im desperate to avoid having to pay to tow this car to a nissan dealership then having to pay them to fix it.

Thanks in advance

[VStar650CL]

I think you're just going to need the better scanner. You need to do an IPL (Initial Position Learn) after changing the pads anyway, and the FSM is specific that there's no non-electronic means to back off the pistons or relearn the pads. Hopefully the Foxwell will work for you.

[D1dad]

So my new 24 has electronic parking brake. There’s a special procedure to do a rear pad slap? Awesome!

[VStar650CL]

So my new 24 has electronic parking brake. There’s a special procedure to do a rear pad slap? Awesome!

Yep. It's the same as the OP's, you put it in service mode before pulling the pads, then do a position relearn after.

[Dbarry]

OP, update us if a better scanner worked.

[Svtrit]

I bought a Nissan specific scanner that took care of all of this for me when I did the brakes on my 19 Rogue. I’ll check the brand tonight and get back to you.

[Dbarry]

I bought a Nissan specific scanner that took care of all of this for me when I did the brakes on my 19 Rogue. I’ll check the brand tonight and get back to you.

Appreciate the details of the scanner. We'll take in this Rogue project once we're done with the Silverado. The rotors and gear wheels showed up so we might take the bike in tomorrow.

[Svtrit]

Sorry for the delayed response.

I bought a Launch Creader Elite that is Nissan specific. Good luck!

[D1dad]

So my new 24 has electronic parking brake. There’s a special procedure to do a rear pad slap? Awesome!

Yep. It's the same as the OP's, you put it in service mode before pulling the pads, then do a position relearn after.

What’s the fsm say on how to do this. I’m a ways a way from needing to do it, but would like to familiarize myself with it. For some reason the oem pads and rotors on this Altima have next to no bite, so it may come sooner than later. Unfortunately, as of now, there’s not a lot of quality aftermarket options for a 24. Ebc makes pads and rotors but I’m holding out for brembo to come around. I put (red stuff) on my 21 and they will launch you through the front window. The downside is dust. I put brembo rotors and pads on the rogue and they’re the perfect mix of bite and low dust. It looks like from 21 to 24 that Nissan went away from Akebno pads to singsen and they suck. I’m going to guess that the rotors are Pagid. An Ebc (black stuff) pad slap may be in order right away. Low dust and plenty of bite. The stock rotors are of good quality but will corrode fast with 1 Ohio winter.

[VStar650CL]

The FSM of course says to do it with the Consult3+, but at $20K give-or-take I don't think you want to go that route. The instructions themselves are rudimentary; put the calipers in service mode, slap the pads, relearn.

[D1dad]

When I put it into service mode I can squeeze the piston back into the caliper? If that’s it, seems simple enough.

[VStar650CL]

The whole shebang retracts when you put it in service mode. No need to squeeze.

[D1dad]

I guess I’m confused. I watched some videos that show still having to retract the piston after you put it into service mode? That basically the scanner backs off the EPB enough to c clamp it back in.
But your saying that when I put it into service mode that I’ll walk back to the caliper and it will be ready to install new pads?

[VStar650CL]

The C3+ does that on most models, but I dunno about an aftermarket scanner. But yes, the piston should walk back. I'm told after asking around (although I haven't tried it) that you can skip the relearn by removing the EPB actuator and running the piston torx back in until the pads are tight against the rotor. Supposedly you can also relieve the piston that way, to do the whole job without a scanner.

[VStar650CL]

PS - If you try that and it works as advertised, do post back. Good knowledge for everybody, including me.

[D1dad]

The C3+ does that on most models, but I dunno about an aftermarket scanner. But yes, the piston should walk back. I'm told after asking around (although I haven't tried it) that you can skip the relearn by removing the EPB actuator and running the piston torx back in until the pads are tight against the rotor. Supposedly you can also relieve the piston that way, to do the whole job without a scanner.

I watched a video showing it done that way. A scanner looks much safer as far as not having to have triple A towing it off to the dealer. I’m going to order the Nissan specific scanner posted above. Probably not a bad thing to have since I own 4 cars. I’m just weary of aftermarket Chinese electronic on the cheap. But, if I do it through Amazon and it doesn’t work I’ll be out nothing but time. If my dealer wasn’t such a dik, they’d just install my own rotors and pads, but they won’t.

[V6er]

on MY2018 - I would check EconTool (it might have this option - like it has option for pumping abs to separate wheels, adaptations, actuator tests and such).
Also - I would look into Autel AP200 or similar thingies(thinktool something), but check with their effing support first, because at that price range it is like garage sale - as-is (and you never know what's inside).

[D1dad]

The (Nissan specific) launch creader looks priced well. Maybe svtrit can chime in on how he used it and what to expect if someone purchase one.

[V6er]

just read on internet that cvtz50.info software allows to work on electronic parking brake...

[VStar650CL]

just read on internet that cvtz50.info software allows to work on electronic parking brake...

Do you have any details on that? I know it lets you set engine braking, but I never noticed anything in the app for the EPB. If so, I'd love to know how to access it. I actually use CVTz50 frequently at the shop, because in the driveway it's a whole lot faster and easier than booting up the C3+.

[V6er]

@VStar650CL I am not sure (haven't used CVTZ50 for a while), but my googling says that:
1) it might be in experimental features
2) https://www.drive2.ru/l/652122821408866167/ - here is big screenshot, though it is in russian.
unfortunately our T32 is MY2014 - I can't really check myself.

p.s. also - about _needing_ scanner to replace pads on electronic parking brake: https://www.drive2.ru/l/477548137586622868/ - when you are shutting down car, keep holding parking brakes engagement switch... and after replacing pads - that adaptation is done by engaging and disengaging parking brake like 5..10times... so... seems like no need for scanner at all.

p.p.s. hope this helps - if so - please let me know

[VStar650CL]

Hooboy, мой русский ужасен. I'll have to update my CVTz50 and poke around.

If that's right about holding the switch, you'd think Nissan would tell us about the shortcut. But nooooooooooooooooooooo...

[V6er]

just use google translate. if something comes out crazy - let me know... Russian is second language for me (can you guess which one is English? :DDD

about the switch - that might be some kind of side effect too, but yeah... nissan "could do better", imo )

[VStar650CL]

about the switch - that might be some kind of side effect too, but yeah... nissan "could do better", imo )

Trust me, you have no idea. When P0705's started popping up in Versas because of the crappy taillights, I was one of the first techs in the country to figure out that the code was because of water in a taillight and not because the Range Switch was bad. It's an undocumented software glitch. If the TCM sees the car in forward but the backup lamps show active, it blames the Range Switch. But here's the thing -- they built the N17 for eight years and it's still undocumented. To this day, the FSM still doesn't list "shorted backup lamp" as a potential cause, even though I've seen scores of crapped taillights but can't recall any bad Range Switches. Moreover, they've never given us a flowchart or logic chain for the decision-making which leads to a given DTC. If they did, we would have figured out the P0705 mystery in a day. Instead, we probably replaced a dozen Range Switches at my dealership alone before anyone figured it out.

That's just one of many, many examples. "Could do better" is an understatement for the ages.

[V6er]

Love stories like this… are there horrors on T32 and T33 Rogues you can share?

[VStar650CL]

You probably already know about the plastic oil pan horror, but that isn't exactly a documentation or work support failure. The heated seats on the T33 (and R53 Pathies) do qualify. In their brilliance, the engineers put the controller in charge of PWMing the seat heaters inside the lower cushion array, connected to the HVAC head by a LIN. Then they gave us absolutely zero work support to allow us to command the HVAC to a given heat setting, so it's impossible to sort connectivity issues from a bad heat controller. Then, for a cherry on top, the WD's show the heaters as one big assembly, so if a heating element burns out it's impossible to sort out which one is bad or distinguish it from a bad controller. I discovered by screwing around that there was a cross-connector inside the seatback which links the upper and lower elements, and that's the only place you can check whether there's any PWM going on and whether the upper element has lost continuity. That's something guys will need to discover and learn by rote unless they contact TechLine, because although TechLine knows about my trick, I'm fully confident that Nissan will never, ever fix the manual or the work support.

[Svtrit]

The (Nissan specific) launch creader looks priced well. Maybe svtrit can chime in on how he used it and what to expect if someone purchase one.

I’ve only used it for retracting the brakes. Since I only have put 1000ish miles on my Rogue since April, I haven’t had a reason!!

It does seem like a quality tool. Purchasing it was still cheaper than having the dealership do the work.

[V6er]

You probably already know about the plastic oil pan horror, but that isn't exactly a documentation or work support failure. The heated seats on the T33 (and R53 Pathies) do qualify. In their brilliance, the engineers put the controller in charge of PWMing the seat heaters inside the lower cushion array, connected to the HVAC head by a LIN. Then they gave us absolutely zero work support to allow us to command the HVAC to a given heat setting, so it's impossible to sort connectivity issues from a bad heat controller. Then, for a cherry on top, the WD's show the heaters as one big assembly, so if a heating element burns out it's impossible to sort out which one is bad or distinguish it from a bad controller. I discovered by screwing around that there was a cross-connector inside the seatback which links the upper and lower elements, and that's the only place you can check whether there's any PWM going on and whether the upper element has lost continuity. That's something guys will need to discover and learn by rote unless they contact TechLine, because although TechLine knows about my trick, I'm fully confident that Nissan will never, ever fix the manual or the work support.

holy Duck! no, I didn't know about plastic pan... thanks for heads up (thankfully - I am "rear ended" and try to follow all torque settings when I work on car)! funny that when googling - it brought up one of topics in other nissan forum:
https://www.reddit.com/r/NissanRogue/co ... er_beware/
https://www.that dead forum/threads/pl ... an.280175/
i wonder - does aluminium one exist for these 1.5 engines...


seems that there needs to be topic of "typical issues" for T33...

about seats... just sad (if I am being polite) ((( beyond my understanding WHY do that.

[VStar650CL]

holy Duck! no, I didn't know about plastic pan... thanks for heads up (thankfully - I am "rear ended" and try to follow all torque settings when I work on car)! funny that when googling - it brought up one of topics in other nissan forum:
https://www.reddit.com/r/NissanRogue/co ... er_beware/
https://www.that dead forum/threads/plastic-oil-pan.280175/
i wonder - does aluminium one exist for these 1.5 engines...

Last I looked there were still no metal pans showing up online, but that was probably 6 months ago. The torque spec may or may not help you, most of them break coming out and not going in. Anti-seize seems to help.

about seats... just sad (if I am being polite) ((( beyond my understanding WHY do that.

Because it saves about 12 feet of wire. I don't blame them for that, but for chrissakes, give us the tools to diagnose it when it breaks!