2018 Rogue - Mysterious Misfire and Jerking

[mafi31]

Hello everybody,

I own a 2018 Rogue SL and overall I like the car. HOWEVER, there has been an issue that nobody seems to be able to fix. The car constantly misfires if below 2500 rpm and the check engine light is always blinking. The car also vibrates heavily during idle and jerks when driving. It sounds louder than a diesel engine and you don't have to be a car expert to know that something is off. Once you exceed 2500 rpm though the engine will become absolutely smooth again and the check engine light stops blinking (it will just stay on because there is obviously some fault codes saved). Acceleration and power also seem to be fine. After dropping below 2500 rpm for a few seconds it will blink again...

When we bought the car in late 2019 it ran well. After a while we got a check engine light and took it to the shop. It was just a "Cylinder X misfire" and it was deleted. Weeks later we had the same fault code again. The spark plugs were checked and the code deleted. Ever since then it got slowly worse. Now the car drives "reliably" but it's misfiring like crazy when the rpm is low. It's extremely annoying and I wonder how much damage it does to the rest of the engine and transmission parts. We moved overseas and took the car with us (when the issue still seemed to be little at the beginning of 2020) so our warranty is void unfortunately. (I wish I could just ship it back to Japan and get a refund...)

I took the car to a local Nissan dealer and here are the things that have been checked or replaced and that seem to work properly:

• spark plugs

• ignition coils

• air intake leak

• sensors: MAF, crankshaft pos, camshaft pos, knock, oxygen

• cylinder compression

• fuel injectors

• fuel pressure

• alternator

• reset ECU

• replaced timing chain and tensioners

Yes, not even the new timing chain has changed anything (except making my wallet lighter). All internal parts that were visible during the disassembly also looked like they are in good condition according to the shop.

I know the theory of how the engine works since I am a Mechanical Engineer and I work with engines on a daily basis (although diesel). However, this issue is driving me insane and I don't know what else can be tested or replaced. I am slowly becoming desperate

Is here anybody who may have experienced something similar? Is there anything else that I can check that I may have missed? The only thing left that I can think of is the CVCT (valve timing system) which consists of three identical VVT solenoids. Is it possible that one (or multiple) of them is not working properly and causing all my issues? But why wouldn't it show any other fault codes then?

I appreciate all replies and suggestions! I just hope you guys can help me!

Cheers,
Manuel

[VStar650CL]

The flashing MIL means a misfire serious enough to harm the catalyst, so if there isn't damage already, there will be if it continues. The fact that it straightens out above 2500 makes me very suspicious of a hidden vacuum leak, such as a brake booster, stuck purge valve or base of the intake plenum where it's hard to see and reach.

[VStar650CL]

If you have a scanner, check the STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) at idle and then above 2500. If it goes way rich at idle but becomes more-or-less normal above 2500, then you almost certainly have a hidden leak.

[mafi31]

Thank you for your quick reply. I checked the STFT like you suggested.

At idle (when it's misfiring and jerking) I measured around +6 to +7% . When I am over 2500 rpm and it feels smooth again I measured approximately -8 to -9% (see screenshot below). Does this seem off?

[VStar650CL]

Yep, +7% at idle is richer than normal and -10% at 2500 is a bit leaner than normal. You said you replaced the MAF, but was it calibrated after replacement? You could still have a vacuum leak, but the over-response to the lean side smells more like the ECM isn't getting an accurate airflow reading. I'd try making sure the MAF is clean, then take an airflow reading at a reference RPM (I usually use around 1500). Perform an IAVL, then re-measure at the same RPM. If the readings are markedly different before and after, then the MAF was either never calibrated or mis-calibrated.

Keep in mind that the MAF is the one sensor in the induction path that the ECM must simply trust. Few Nissans have MAP sensors to allow the ECM a cross-check, so if the MAF is lying, the ECM has no accurate means to detect and diagnose it. For that reason, even the smallest bit of butterfly wing lodged in the MAF passages can have a catastrophic effect on engine performance.

[casperfun]

Is it just me? But I expect all those things to still work like new after a mere 3 years.

A 3yr old car is still a new car to me.

Anyways, I had a similar problem after over a decade. I saw some residual oil on a spark plug that was replaced many years ago when I didn't need to do it as I was being proactive.

So I stuck back that ONE misfiring plug with the previous old oem plug that I kept in my drawer since they were still good as a back up. Moreovwer, I believed the coil was damaged, so I replaced all of them because of age.

The funny thing is I took my left rear tire off and tighten all the bolts because I was blaming my lift kit. Hell I didn't know a bad spark plug would cause my rogue to drive jerky. Thought my suspension was crap.

The stupid rogue finally gave me that damn code after I was driving a jerky car for a couple days. I was both happy and upset, happy that I finally got a code and it's not my suspension, and upset that I had to take the damn tire off and tighten stuff around.

Check for any loose hoses also.

[BrianS]

I’m experiencing the exact.same.thing. If I could drive 40mph everywhere, you’d never know I had a problem. Sitting at idle, it sounds like an old VW Beetle, but on the highway, it runs like a clock! My gas mileage is horrendous at any speed though.
I have repaired or replaced most of the list you mentioned originally. Additionally, I did replace the 3 vvt solenoids…
Let’s just say I’m in a Nissan forum still looking for answers..lol
At least they match all the other new items I’ve replaced and should add to the longevity overall.

I am definitely going to take the advice from the other gent to check for vac leaks as well as check and/or replace the fuel injectors (which I don’t remember seeing if you addressed, originally). A faulty fi would explain my gas mileage…
Sooner or later, we’re gonna win ….and find that faulty part!!
I promise

[casperfun]

My rogue drives smooth as butter even though I get 16 mpg.

I still have to check my tachometer to make sure my engine is still on.

[D1dad]

If you all are getting that kind of mpg then something is definitely wrong. My 09 Altima gets the worst mileage of all my cars and still pulls 26-27 in and out of town. The wifes 18 gets 30 plus on the highway, unless I’m running winter fuel and then it drops to 26-28.

[casperfun]

In my case, I converted my 1st genner aerodynamic bubble rogue into a boxy wind-loving sloth mobile because of all the heavy tubes surrounding my vehicle and exterior accessories ( bullbar with fat old style driving lights, nerf bar, rear tube, fat round decades old roof lights and a cargo basket.) moreover, I have nearly 30 inch all terrain tires with a 2 inch lift.

So yah, I’m sure it affected my mileage a tad.

I did get the onboard digital display to register over 41-42 mpg on a long road trip with a strong tailwind behind me on a flat stretch of highway when it was newish. I made a game trying to get the most mileage that day.

[Rogue2018_Vicky]

Hello, did anyone ever find a solution to the 'Mysterious Misfire & Jerking'? I bought a used 2018 Rogue with 100k miles in Nov 2023 and it starting doing the thing.