I have a 2018 Rogue with moon roof that sounds like a seal is breaking every time the moon roof is opened. That said, upon waxing the car, I noticed the weatherstripping doesn't cover the rear of the roof. Is there any way to fix this or does the whole window have to be replaced.

No, the weatherstrip can be replaced without replacing the pane. If you tilt the roof and pull up the detached section, you'll see that it has a ribbed shape that pushes into a slot in the glass. If the gasket isn't deformed you can probably reattach it, but usually they're deformed. The panes aren't difficult to remove, just pull the accordion rubbers loose with the roof closed and you'll see a torx screw at each corner (T25 I think). Remove those and the whole pane will lift out the top. Use a magnet, you don't want those screws dropping into the mechanism or the headliner. I use spray adhesive with a tube in the spray head to attach the new gasket, it acts as both a lubricant to get the rib seated and glue once it sets up. Make sure you have solvent on hand for cleanup if you do it that way, it's a simple job but very messy. I know other guys who use a small artists' brush and skip the mess, but that's slower and can make the unlubricated ribs hard to seat. Once you get the new gasket on, the roof screws are also the positioning mechanism. Center the pane in the hole and lightly tighten all four, then adjust the height one at a time to level the pane.

When the gaskets stick like yours did, the reason is usually mud and tree sap gluing the gasket to the front of the fixed pane. When the roof opens, the gasket can't move and pops out of the slot. You can prevent that with some silicone spray once a year or so to keep it from sticking.

thanks VStar650CL
"No, the weatherstrip can be replaced without replacing the pane. If you tilt the roof and pull up the detached section, you'll see that it has a ribbed shape that pushes into a slot in the glass. If the gasket isn't deformed you can probably reattach it, but usually they're deformed. The panes aren't difficult to remove, just pull the accordion rubbers loose with the roof closed and you'll see a torx screw at each corner (T25 I think). Remove those and the whole pane will lift out the top. Use a magnet, you don't want those screws dropping into the mechanism or the headliner. I use spray adhesive with a tube in the spray head to attach the new gasket, it acts as both a lubricant to get the rib seated and glue once it sets up. Make sure you have solvent on hand for cleanup if you do it that way, it's a simple job but very messy. I know other guys who use a small artists' brush and skip the mess, but that's slower and can make the unlubricated ribs hard to seat. Once you get the new gasket on, the roof screws are also the positioning mechanism. Center the pane in the hole and lightly tighten all four, then adjust the height one at a time to level the pane.

When the gaskets stick like yours did, the reason is usually mud and tree sap gluing the gasket to the front of the fixed pane. When the roof opens, the gasket can't move and pops out of the slot. You can prevent that with some silicone spray once a year or so to keep it from sticking."


Quick question for you...do you happen to know the part number for the gasket if it needs replacing?

EPC shows the same gasket for all variants on the '18, 91214-4BA0A.

VStar650CL thank you for your assistance.
What I learned, sharing here to possibly help another user, the moon roof has a channel in the glass. The weatherstrip has a rib that should fit into the channel. Mine was not torn or dry, so I tried to just insert it. I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive (black) and used a craft brush to brush it into the channel. I then brushed some onto the rib and let both get a little tacky. The tricky part was to "roll" the rib into the channel and press firmly enough to get it seated. I had some success in most areas. One part did not go well, and I cleaned the channel and weather stripping with brake cleaner to get the dried adhesive off. I then repeated my paint process. Finally, I cleaned the metal of the roof where the glass raises to sit and coated with silicone spray (I sprayed on a rag and wiped the area well). I also cleaned the weatherstripping and wiped the weatherstripping with silicone. I believe it will hold for some time (at least I hope). When it fails again, I will likely try to repair it as I have, but I feel confident I can replace the entire weatherstripping.

You're most welcome. That one section that didn't seat all the way is probably from some deformation of the ribs, but Gorilla Snot is good stuff and may hold it. Keep it lubed periodically with some wet silicone on the outside and it won't stick to the rear glass as readily, that will help a lot.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 10, 2022 12:55 pm

You're most welcome. That one section that didn't seat all the way is probably from some deformation of the ribs, but Gorilla Snot is good stuff and may hold it. Keep it lubed periodically with some wet silicone on the outside and it won't stick to the rear glass as readily, that will help a lot.

VStar650CL, I could use your expertise... the Rogue has been leaking and water has been seen in the A-pillar on driver's side-I'm guessing this is a clogged drain and will address that problem in the coming days. Sadly, it sits in the elements of TN while my kid attends college. Upon being home for break, it sits outside as well. We found water, a significant amount, in the floor of the passenger's side. It hasn't been raining much and no snow. Could the water in passenger's side still be leaking moonroof (clogged drains)? Or could it be a clogged A/C hose/Heater core issue? Finally, is there a video or an assembly book on how to remove the carpet to clean and air the carpet? Any recommendations is appreciated.

The gen2 Rogue evap drain is on the driver side, so that won't be the issue. The front drains are almost certainly clogged, it's hideously common on the gen2's because of the way the the bulkhead fittings are constructed. However, the cowl cover is easy to remove and the fittings are right there at the corners beneath the windshield. You'll need a 14mm socket for the wiper arm nuts, the rest is just clips that pop loose. The cover has a tongue that fits into a groove in the windshield, so lift upward on it to break the seal before pulling it forward to remove it. Then you'll need a 10mm socket to take the wiper motor assembly loose. Don't unplug it, just loosen it and push it aside so you can get at the driver side fitting. You'll find the fittings have a plastic nub or "x" covering the drain hole, grab a hook tool or needlenose pliers and break the nubs off. They're the source of the constant clogging. Once removed. poke a phillips screwdriver into the hole to clear it. If you have compressed air then put a rag over the upper drain at the roof and gently blow the line clear from the bottom. If not, snake it with a piece of weedeater line. The rear drains rarely clog unless you park on an uphill, and they can only be checked on an uphill. The driver fitting is easy to reach by removing the jack, the passenger requires loosening the lower cargo trim. I'll advise you about doing that if needed.

Vis the carpet, you'll need a T50 torx driver to remove the passenger front seat and a 14mm to loosen (but don't remove) the rear passenger seat. If it's Bose audio then you need a 10mm for the amp under the seat. Everything else just pops loose. Lift the carpet as high as possible and bungee it to the center console. There will be plastic plugs in the floor for standing water, but they're sealed in. Don't try to remove them, poke or drill holes in them and then cover with self-stick foam when it's dried out. Treat the undercarpet and the foam spacers with Lysol with Bleach before you dry them out, mold is only dangerous when dry. If you find any black mold, don't screw around, get some N95 masks and replace the carpet. Green, brown or white mold are all treatable. There are usually plastic bags over the foam spacers, remove and discard the plastic.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 28, 2022 8:14 am

Vis the carpet, you'll need a T50 torx driver to remove the passenger front seat and a 14mm to loosen (but don't remove) the rear passenger seat. If it's Bose audio then you need a 10mm for the amp under the seat. Everything else just pops loose. Lift the carpet as high as possible and bungee it to the center console. There will be plastic plugs in the floor for standing water, but they're sealed in. Don't try to remove them, poke or drill holes in them and then cover with self-stick foam when it's dried out. Treat the undercarpet and the foam spacers with Lysol with Bleach before you dry them out, mold is only dangerous when dry. If you find any black mold, don't screw around, get some N95 masks and replace the carpet. Green, brown or white mold are all treatable. There are usually plastic bags over the foam spacers, remove and discard the plastic.

By everything else, are you talking about the plastic door sill plates/molding along the door? What is best way to remove the molding/sill plates? Any special tools required?

No, the sill plates will pull loose with your fingers. So will the lower B-pillar trim, front kick panel, and front console kick panel. The front kick panel has a plastic nut. The B-pillar trim has a slot with a plastic key for the seatbelt to pass through, so there's no need for the belt to come loose. There will be two carpet retainers underneath the passenger seat, those pry out with a screwdriver inserted from the side. The carpet is split underneath the rear seat, so you only need to remove the front bolts and loosen but don't remove the rear ones, then the seat can be tilted and the carpet pulled out from underneath. The only tricky part is the front spacer, there's a duct that runs across it into the console. I don't usually bother removing the duct, I just cut the spacer into 3 pieces and then duct tape it back together when I reassemble. Altogether it isn't a hard job, with a power ratchet I can have one stripped and lifted in under 30 minutes.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 28, 2022 9:20 pm

No, the sill plates will pull loose with your fingers. So will the lower B-pillar trim, front kick panel, and front console kick panel. The front kick panel has a plastic nut. The B-pillar trim has a slot with a plastic key for the seatbelt to pass through, so there's no need for the belt to come loose. There will be two carpet retainers underneath the passenger seat, those pry out with a screwdriver inserted from the side. The carpet is split underneath the rear seat, so you only need to remove the front bolts and loosen but don't remove the rear ones, then the seat can be tilted and the carpet pulled out from underneath. The only tricky part is the front spacer, there's a duct that runs across it into the console. I don't usually bother removing the duct, I just cut the spacer into 3 pieces and then duct tape it back together when I reassemble. Altogether it isn't a hard job, with a power ratchet I can have one stripped and lifted in under 30 minutes.

VStar you make it sound so easy. 30 minutes-I'm planning a whole day. Can I just hire you? LOL I'll keep you posted. Thanks!

It is easy, but you'll need the whole day anyway to dry the carpet. Those undercarpets are thick. Be prepared with a shop fan, a space heater, and plenty of pig mats if you want it to dry out quick. Once the carpet is bungeed to the console, the water will migrate south and drip off the fold at the base of the console. Put pig mats under the fold to wick the water away and aim the fan at that area, then squeeze out the fold area every 30~60 minutes.

You can certainly hire me if you can make it to Arkansas, our dealership rectifies lots of Rogue floods and that's why I know the drill so well.

Ok,well I'm not likely to get to Arkansas but if you get to the east coast of FL -LMK. Silly question, what is a "Pig mat?"

They're universal absorbent mats you get in a box or roll, you can get them online or at Lowes or Home Depot. Just google "pig mat" and you'll see lots of them. There are two kinds, universal and oil-only, make sure you get universals. The oil-only ones are meant for sopping up oil in places like boat bilges, so they reject water and are useless for floods.

PS - I did a generic how-to about flood cleanup, you might find this useful:
after-the-great-flood-t628490.html

Here's a useful update for anybody clearing out Nissan roof drains. I just got done clearing all four on a '17 Murano with a case of terminal pine needles (yes, Virginia, there are plenty of pine trees in Arkansas)...

...and BTW, that's a pig mat in the second pic. Anyway, I took pics of the offending nubs in the drain fittings which cause all the issues. The first pic shows the nub as it comes from the factory (and yes, that's a huge pile of pine-gunk peeking out from behind it). The second pic is how it looks with the nub removed, and at the bottom is a closeup of it. I usually work a hook tool behind the nub and pull outward to break one of the attachments, then grab and twist with a needlenose to remove it. Some of the older fittings have an "X" instead of a nub. On cars where the fittings are impossible to access from outside, like the driver front fitting on Altimas, the next best thing is to push a phillips screwdriver through from inside and at least break it loose. Half a loaf is much better than a guaranteed clog.

Thanks Vstar. I plan to tackle this on Sunday. I'm in the process of acquiring the necessary items. I'm having trouble finding the Lysol in the gallon. Can you upload a photo of the label?
Would Odoban also work? It says it kills mold and mildew. It says it is a mildewstat. (https://odoban.com/product/multi-purpose-concentrates/)

I'm also having trouble uploading photos here on forum.
Your expertise has been invaluable thus far and giving me the confidence to tackle this and save some $.

I'd imagine the Odoban would work fine for doing a boil, but you should use bleach on the undercarpet and floorpan. This the Lysol we use for boils...

...and this is the kind we use on the undercarpet. They changed the packaging from purple to green, but it's the same stuff:

We get both of them from the local Walmart. Vis posting pictures, check the size on stuff you're trying to attach. Files which are too large will just kick out without loading but won't tell you why. I don't know the exact size limit, but reducing to about 1500 pixels seems to work every time and still gives good viewability.

Well, I got into the fix today. The roof drain on passenger side was slow draining and once nub was removed it ran well.


The pull back of the carpet proved to be a little more involved and time consuming. We had a devil of a time disconnecting the seat heater. The water under the spacers was significant. The insulation/backing was dripping wet and ran like a faucet once we removed from the cabin. The front Styrofoam piece did not come out easily and we broke a piece of it off. The plastic vent pipe prevented it from coming out easily.

I have sprayed all the back of the carpet and the insulation under the passenger dashboard.
We sopped up the water and I sprayed the floorpan. We have a heater running to dry it all out. The Styrofoam got a decent spraying as well. I'm hoping it all goes back easily.

The question is, could this amount of water REALLY be from the drain of the moonroof or is there something else leaking? Seems to be a lot IMO, but this is the first time I've had a leaking moonroof.

The trouble with clogged drains is that you can have 2 gallons of water in the floorboasrd before you even realize there's a problem, and the plastic laminate in the carpet keeps it from evaporating. So yes, that's entirely possible. I once had a Rogue show up with white pond scum growing in the floorpan because the water had been there for so long.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 31, 2022 4:28 pm

The trouble with clogged drains is that you can have 2 gallons of water in the floorboasrd before you even realize there's a problem, and the plastic laminate in the carpet keeps it from evaporating. So yes, that's entirely possible. I once had a Rogue show up with white pond scum growing in the floorpan because the water had been there for so long.

Well that is alarming! I'm guessing the cleanliness of the water is because it has been filtered by the insulation and carpet? The water isn't too dirty. Granted the water that we sucked up with carpet cleaner on top was dirty. The FL humidity is making the drying process take a few days. We finally have a sunny day and we have put the car out in the driveway with the other pieces in the sun to bake and dry. We are likely to need an additional day for drying it out before a once over with more bleach and then the reassembly. Hopefully, we can recall where everything goes-lol.

I still cannot upload pics directly to forum, which is a bummer.

Are you using the Attachment tab, or trying to post from the cloud? Attachments are easier, although you have to watch the size of your pics (and I think they need to be JPG or PNG, not sure about other formats). Hit the "Full Editor and Preview" button at the bottom of the posting page, then directly below the "Submit" button you'll see an Attachments" tab. Tag that tab and then tag the "Add Files" button. Browse to the picture file you want and upload it. Then if you want it inline, put the cursor in the editing window where you want the pic located and tag the "Place Inline" button.

The other advantage to attachments is that they're permanent, no worries about busted links for future viewing. So if you're posting for posterity, it's the best way to go.

Thanks for the assist. I will give it a try.
this is the styrofoam we broke the upper corner off removing it. I think Smaller jpg files for multiple attachments.

Water in floor area after we removed the insulation and Styrofoam. Front foot well insulation, very wet 1/2 way up the firewall. By the way, the bleach spray did bleach the backing of the carpet from gray to white.

Yah, but only the undercarpet. It's color fast to the top side or upholstery if you overspray. Other formulations may be color fast too, but I can't vouch for them.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 03, 2023 5:08 am

Yah, but only the undercarpet. It's color fast to the top side or upholstery if you overspray. Other formulations may be color fast too, but I can't vouch for them.

Things are finally about dry, so thanks for your help. Another question, when reinstalling the seats, are there torque specs to set the screws to? I used a torx socket/ratchet to remove them, but I want the seats to be safely installed.

There probably is a spec but I don't think Nissan pays attention to it, we see factory bolts that are all over the lot in tightness (even across the same seat). I just take them all the way down with a power ratchet (probably 30 lbs/ft) and then give the ratchet an extra yank with arm power.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 05, 2023 5:32 am

There probably is a spec but I don't think Nissan pays attention to it, we see factory bolts that are all over the lot in tightness (even across the same seat). I just take them all the way down with a power ratchet (probably 30 lbs/ft) and then give the ratchet an extra yank with arm power.

No worries. Just tightened it down to the point of unable to do more. Your help made the process not so overwhelming-I thank you.
It is now reassembled and shows an airbag error. I'm guessing this needs to be reset via dealer on the 2018 model?

You probably cycled the key with the seat disconnected. My bad, I should have thought to warn you about that. I don't know of any way to clear it using Diag Mode like you could with older models, I'm pretty sure you need an SRS-capable scanner. So sorry!

can the box parts stores "scan for free" and clear that type of code?