That was the plan, but there is a small harness off the main that is puzzling me...here is a video of itVStar650CL wrote: ↑Tue Mar 14, 2023 5:38 pmThe Engine Harness can stay on the engine, you disconnect it from the car at the battery, IPDM, ECM and TCM. The harness that runs along the body will be the Engine Room Harness, which joins the Engine Harness at the IPDM.
Now I know, lolVStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2023 4:23 amYah, on most models the IPDM is inside the Fuse & Relay Box, and the whole interface between the E and F Harnesses occurs there.
thanks for the advice....yeah this engine has sludge and all kind of build up in it. So instead of fighting with the lack of accesss on that side of the engine I am just dropping the whole assembly out. I'll have plenty room to go through the whole system then.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2023 9:59 amI'm a Nissan guy and never dropped a QX engine (and at almost 70 I don't drop much of any engines anymore), but that technique works on the R52 Pathfinder so I'd imagine it would work on a QX60. Just be careful not to snag the A/C lines when lowering, that can make an expensive mess.
yeah there seems to be a lot of slack in the timing chain too, Probably a combination of a few things that was causing the codes
I am gonna do a leak down just to be sure, and besides cleaning the gunk out the oil passages everything else looked good. cam lobes look goodVStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Mar 16, 2023 10:13 amThat tensioner is fully extended, it can't put any more tension on the chain. Looks like you can get away with a new timing set, assuming you don't find anything else wrong.
So I need to replace the tensioners for the smaller two chains and the smaller two chains also is reccomended?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 8:45 amYep, that sounds like an obstructed passage. With the tensioner removed, you should be able to blow that crap back into the pump and crank to clean it out. You should be replacing all the tensioners along with the chains and guides, so the rest should all be curable.
that makes sense...are any of the aftermarket timing sets any good? Everyone I ran across seemed to be extremely cheaply made...stick to oem I assume?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 10:01 amYah, reusing the old ones is never a good idea. Most aftermarket kits come with new tensioners along with chains and guides, and there's a reason for that. Certainly you should replace the cam chains too, if the big one is stretched then none of them will be trustworthy.
thanks for the heads up!!VStar650CL wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 10:16 amOh, hey, one really important thing before you get this engine together and it's time to restart... never just let the engine start up, always pull the fuel pump fuse and crank for about 30 seconds to let the tensioners build oil pressure. The back/right cam chains are especially susceptible to jumping if you start the engine without oil pressure. It's a f__K of a job to re-do, so a fuse in time saves nine.
lol, thanks...not my first time tearing down a VQ35, I had to redo the heads on my old FX35 a few years back. I did that one, with the engine in the car...it sucked lol