2017 qx60, p0014 AND p0017, SCRATCHING MY HEAD

Discussion forum for the Infiniti JX35 / Infiniti QX60 - This 7-seat premium crossover dominates the class.
BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

soooo I have those two and here what I have done so far.

replaced Ex Cam sensor, checked function of the solenoid for the exhuast vvt solenoid checks out, it's moving when applying 12v.

engine runs smooth at idle and when you rev it up

Service manual is saying to check the exhaust-valve-timing-evt-control-position-sensor??? and the crank sensor.

any advice.?


User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

The solenoid needs oil pressure to function, most issues with those codes are hydraulic. P0017 is a "soft" code where the cam angle is responding but it's off target. Make sure your oil isn't low, too thick, or too thin, and check your oil pressure and oil filter. If everything checks out you may have a stretched chain, or a blockage or blown o-ring under the timing cover.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

Man, someone has been in that timing cove before...you can see its not the oem sealant, and they did a terrible job, lol

but you have me thinking about the O rings....and it was pretty sludgy when I took the cam sensors out

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

so much junk in the pan and pick up
oil pickup 1.jpeg
sludge in the pan....

So I guess the issues are just the engine is sludged up?

Should I take the engine out from the bottom of the car?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Sludge but no metal, I think I'd try flushing it out with some diesel in the oil and gently blowing back through the EVT passages. If that doesn't help, then think about yanking stuff.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

Anyone have tips on how to get the wiring harness off the body to drop the subframe and engine assembly from the bottom?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

The Engine Harness can stay on the engine, you disconnect it from the car at the battery, IPDM, ECM and TCM. The harness that runs along the body will be the Engine Room Harness, which joins the Engine Harness at the IPDM.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Tue Mar 14, 2023 5:38 pm
The Engine Harness can stay on the engine, you disconnect it from the car at the battery, IPDM, ECM and TCM. The harness that runs along the body will be the Engine Room Harness, which joins the Engine Harness at the IPDM.
That was the plan, but there is a small harness off the main that is puzzling me...here is a video of it
Harness.jpeg
harness 2.jpeg
and video

[youtube]https://youtu.be/2xIss7wZPlY[/youtube]

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

Woo hoo! got it!

I didn't realize that the smaller harness had to come out the junciton box

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

:dblthumb: Yah, on most models the IPDM is inside the Fuse & Relay Box, and the whole interface between the E and F Harnesses occurs there.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Wed Mar 15, 2023 4:23 am
:dblthumb: Yah, on most models the IPDM is inside the Fuse & Relay Box, and the whole interface between the E and F Harnesses occurs there.
Now I know, lol

:biggrin:

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

I keep seeing how the manual says to remove the radiator and the evap, but it seems like It's way easier to just undo the evap and recharge the AC system afterwards, that way I Don't have to remove the whole radiator support?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

I'm a Nissan guy and never dropped a QX engine (and at almost 70 I don't drop much of any engines anymore), but that technique works on the R52 Pathfinder so I'd imagine it would work on a QX60. Just be careful not to snag the A/C lines when lowering, that can make an expensive mess.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Wed Mar 15, 2023 9:59 am
I'm a Nissan guy and never dropped a QX engine (and at almost 70 I don't drop much of any engines anymore), but that technique works on the R52 Pathfinder so I'd imagine it would work on a QX60. Just be careful not to snag the A/C lines when lowering, that can make an expensive mess.
thanks for the advice....yeah this engine has sludge and all kind of build up in it. So instead of fighting with the lack of accesss on that side of the engine I am just dropping the whole assembly out. I'll have plenty room to go through the whole system then.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

timing chain slack small.JPG

well this doesn't look very promising. lol

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Yep, pretty yucky.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Thu Mar 16, 2023 4:32 am
Yep, pretty yucky.
yeah there seems to be a lot of slack in the timing chain too, Probably a combination of a few things that was causing the codes

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

well I am pretty sure this would cause an issue between the exhaust position and the crank position over 5 deg
loose2.jpeg
loose.jpeg

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

That tensioner is fully extended, it can't put any more tension on the chain. Looks like you can get away with a new timing set, assuming you don't find anything else wrong.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Thu Mar 16, 2023 10:13 am
That tensioner is fully extended, it can't put any more tension on the chain. Looks like you can get away with a new timing set, assuming you don't find anything else wrong.
I am gonna do a leak down just to be sure, and besides cleaning the gunk out the oil passages everything else looked good. cam lobes look good

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

leak down checked out great...spark plugs looked great to.

So the lack of oil changes didn't kill the piston rings, yay!

I did notice this unusual thing with the cam chain tensioners, the tensioner on the #2 bank is easy to push in while the tensioner on the #1 bank is hard to push in. The same bank with the oil codes...I imagine it's sludged up in there also?

here is a video

[youtube]https://youtu.be/bmZGRPHdyuY[/youtube]

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Yep, that sounds like an obstructed passage. With the tensioner removed, you should be able to blow that crap back into the pump and crank to clean it out. You should be replacing all the tensioners along with the chains and guides, so the rest should all be curable.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Fri Mar 17, 2023 8:45 am
Yep, that sounds like an obstructed passage. With the tensioner removed, you should be able to blow that crap back into the pump and crank to clean it out. You should be replacing all the tensioners along with the chains and guides, so the rest should all be curable.
So I need to replace the tensioners for the smaller two chains and the smaller two chains also is reccomended?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Yah, reusing the old ones is never a good idea. Most aftermarket kits come with new tensioners along with chains and guides, and there's a reason for that. Certainly you should replace the cam chains too, if the big one is stretched then none of them will be trustworthy.

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Fri Mar 17, 2023 10:01 am
Yah, reusing the old ones is never a good idea. Most aftermarket kits come with new tensioners along with chains and guides, and there's a reason for that. Certainly you should replace the cam chains too, if the big one is stretched then none of them will be trustworthy.
that makes sense...are any of the aftermarket timing sets any good? Everyone I ran across seemed to be extremely cheaply made...stick to oem I assume?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

We don't use aftermarket very often here at the dealership, so I can't really speak for that. Maybe some of the M and Q mavens in here can advise you on that count.

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8441
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Oh, hey, one really important thing before you get this engine together and it's time to restart... never just let the engine start up, always pull the fuel pump fuse and crank for about 30 seconds to let the tensioners build oil pressure. The back/right cam chains are especially susceptible to jumping if you start the engine without oil pressure. It's a f__K of a job to re-do, so a fuse in time saves nine.
;)

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Fri Mar 17, 2023 10:16 am
Oh, hey, one really important thing before you get this engine together and it's time to restart... never just let the engine start up, always pull the fuel pump fuse and crank for about 30 seconds to let the tensioners build oil pressure. The back/right cam chains are especially susceptible to jumping if you start the engine without oil pressure. It's a f__K of a job to re-do, so a fuse in time saves nine.
;)
thanks for the heads up!! :dblthumb:

It also looks like my only option is OEM for my year model for some reason. I can't find an aftermarket timing set anywhere.

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9805
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Charlotte, NC
Contact:

Post

Man, you are brave going this deep on the work. Bravo!

BigTasty
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:44 am
Car: 2010 FX35

Post

Ilya wrote:
Sun Apr 02, 2023 7:34 am
Man, you are brave going this deep on the work. Bravo!
lol, thanks...not my first time tearing down a VQ35, I had to redo the heads on my old FX35 a few years back. I did that one, with the engine in the car...it sucked lol

I finally got the parts in this weekend. So I'll be able to get back on it monday. I need to make sure all the oil passages are clear. I think I am gonna break clean the hell out of them with compressed air


Return to “Infiniti JX35 / QX60 Forum”