Hi Friends,

I need one help! I bought start scan running light for my 2017 Nissan Rogue. I looked online for some videos on how to install it and it looked simple before buying the lights. People had suggested to connect it to fuse box. It looked simple but now when I am trying to install it in my car unable to find the fuse to which I need to connect the positive wire. Also, the fuse type looks to be different.

I also tried of connecting it to usb and I tried to use a USB cable to connect the light butt it doesn't work. When I directly connect the lights to the battery it works.

Has anyone done such installation in 2017 Nissan Rogue or has any suggestion?

I have one too, and two sets of smaller ones, with amber turn signals.

There is no ignition on power source in the engine bay. Every fuse I could
find was HOT at all times. You either have to hook it into the parking lights,
or you will need to get it from the interior fuse box, which DOES have ignition
power sources, to the scan light. Plus, I have a bug deflector, so that wont
work so well.

+1 on the interior fuse box.

If you are good at hiding wires and or/able to get the wire thru the firewall etc.

There are actually a ton of ignition fuses in the bay, but they're all in the IPDM and not the Fuse & Relay Box. The IPDM is upside down underneath the intake snorkel, so you have to remove both halves of the snork to get at it. If the lights you're mounting are DRL's, I suggest using the fuel pump circuit to trigger a relay, that way your DRL's will be on only when the engine is running. The '17 IPDM layout looks to be identical to the '16, so you can get the information here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FPCS.pdf

The IPDM wiring diagram begins on PCS-29 and the terminal layout and pin reference begins on PCS-22. See PCS-6 for a drawing of the IPDM location.

The issue is, messing with the IPDM can really cause problems.
I know that is a possibility, but I am not messing with that.
If you accidentally short things out, you can cause damage
that needs a dealer to fix. I will look into it more, but
for an inexperienced wire-hooker-upper, I would not mess
with it. I can, but I don't want to, I want to leave the
engine bay electronics alone.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Sat May 20, 2023 9:50 pm

for an inexperienced wire-hooker-upper, I would not mess with it. I can, but I don't want to, I want to leave the engine bay electronics alone.

That's probably true for any control unit on a modern automobile. I think most people know intuitively whether they belong in the same room with electrons or not, and if they do, what the limits of their own experience will support. Like anything else in life, there's no substitute for your own good judgment.

I do all the 12V work at the shop when needed, but I won't mess
with the IPDM. Newer ones have short counters, and once the count
hits a certain point, the circuit will stay open, and you need to replace
the IPDM. I read up on how the newer ones work. Sure, the counters
are high, but for now, I will wire from inside out. Plus, I just don't
want to pull it out. My intake is already off, I run with the wide open
air-box.

Your '16 shouldn't be all that scary, it's still all fuses and not Smart FETs. The ignition-powered fuses are mainly clustered in one corner, and if you don't want to fiddle with wires, it's pretty much impossible to hurt anything with a piggyback fuse.

So, how do I access those fuses? I have an idea, but I would rather
get the knowledge before pulling things apart. Intake tubing is
already out.

This is what you'll see when you pop the lid and flip the IPDM over:

Those are all regular fuses. Taps don't work well because they tend to spread the fuse contacts on the IPDM circuit board, so I recommend piggybacks. The 5A fuse at the very top is the Ign signal to the ECM, and several of the ones in the lower right are for the injectors, etc, all live with the ignition. Use the link to the layout I posted earlier to identify fuse numbers and the wiring diagram in that section (PCS-29) to identify what they feed.

I won't have to unplug all that crap, will I? If so, then no, I will
run from inside, out...

Nah, just use a piggyback and not a tap. This is the kind I'm talking about, it's a lot easier than f__king with taps and safer for the terminal pins:

Yeah, we have those at the shop, mini and micro.

What I meant was, I did not want to be unplugging anything from
that IPDM to lift it up and turn it over...

No, there's enough slack in the wires to flip it without disconnecting anything. Not a lot, but enough. No worries about that.