Hey everyone. I have a 2017 Maxima. I got it new in June of this year and it now has 4800 miles. The car has developed a steering issue where the steering wheel does not fully actively return to top-dead-center. It did when new, and there was a nice weight and heft and resistance to the steering. Now there isn't much resistance to turning at all, which results in very light feeling steering that I have to adjust more than I'd like...

I've had a bunch of alignments with Nissan, and my car qualified as a lemon, for which I got a lawyer, and opted to keep the car and take a cash settlement from Nissan... So since my car is a lease, I still have 2.5 years with it, and I'd like to fix this steering issue so I can enjoy the car while I still have it....

I believe the problem is being caused by the front caster... It looks like it is supposed to be about 5.0 to 5.1 degrees positive caster. But my left wheel is 4.4, and the right wheel is 4.5. I believe that 5.0 to 5.3 degrees of positive caster would bring the resistance, heft, and stability back to my steering.


However, from what I understand, there is no way to adjust front caster from the factory. So, does anyone know of any kit that is made, or any other way to adjust the front caster on an 8th (2016-2017) Maxima?

Thank you.

The service manuals for the 2016 Maxima can be downloaded from the service manuals section of this site. It doens't make sense to me what the castor can't be adjusted from the factory unless it's a matter of modifying something first, before an adjustment Can be made. Either way, I would guess the procedure is highlighted in the factory service manual.

mac , I have actually been through this on my J30 , (rear tie rod , solid-spindle,no strut adj. for caster from factory) . Basically to "create" an adjustment you either have to "move" fwd's or "backwds." the lower ( @ ctrl arm) geometry - OR what I chose (easier to do , easier to adj. AT ANY TIME LATER) To make ( Rat-tail file etc. ) 3/4 " , approx. , SLOTS - IN the DIRECTION which gives the MORE RETURNABILITY ( my case was to the rear + slightly IN for more Neg. camber) .You may want to SLOT slightly the other direction - just for a more full option of "RANGE" of adj.
Also you will probably want to hit both sides - Now you have a means of - CORRECTING PULL, in addition to Adjusting RETURNABILITY .
And to really address CAMBER -(if NOT a solid strut / spindle) what you do is slot the sheet metal on the struts ( obviously not the HEAVY chunk of steel in the spindle side of things . GT
3/9/2018

mac ,sorry - I'm talking the three studs atop each strut tower - I really gotta learn the EDIT button 3/9/2018

Normally caster is no longer set as it is locked in at manufacture. I can tell the OP that just moving a half degree is not going to radically change the steering feel like he seems to want. I wouldn't be surprised at all if simple giving in of the new rubber on LCAs and such allowed for the slight change, no rubber mounted suspension part on earth stays in the exact same position for long. And I absolutely would not necessarily accept the shops' determination of where the caster was at either. As well, the difference in runout of parts can easily make the number vary from car to car and in no way exact.

If the car has electric PS then it may be that, many complain about it being too easy, they don't realize the old hydro racks required you to warp a metal valve to activate the hydraulics and that took a bit of effort not really noticed until you no longer have it. I myself notice it on mine all the time but the car absolutely has nothing wrong with it.

Part of that stability and return also comes from toe effect, the more toe you have the more friction to make the caster work side to side against itself like it should. The less toe you have the more a front end feels every little bump like it wants to wander a bit and you end up chasing it more with the steering wheel in slight adjustments.