After listening to the rattle from rough roads in my rear, I took it in to my local shop. As a former Ford owner [and GM] it was a habit to expect the worst and hope for the best.

Mechanic went through all of my suspension, visually examining the bushings, ball joints, and things like control arms. Used a big pry bar to test as well. So after 103K miles, all the components were tight, the shocks were charged, no bouncing... BUT the Caliper pins were dry... While I was there, he grabbed both rear calipers [each in turn] and rattled them. The fix was smearing the Caliper pins [or bolts...] with dielectric grease and reassembling them. Whole lot quieter...

The cost per shop hour has really gone up since the 80s, but the Nissan dealer [?] up in Janesville charges their shop rate PLUS >$90 PER ITEM YOU WANT DIAGNOSED<.

So, I was pleased that my 2016 is holding up very good

So my door couldn’t open AND the child door locks were activated.

There was no way they opened the door because it was still inoperable.

They wanted to charge me around $600 for a new actuator.

The funny thing is that they didn’t charge me the usual diagnostic fee.

So that was fishy, I ended up opening the door myself by cutting a credit card a certain way to deactivate the child locks and finally open the door to look inside and found the ball at the end of the cable broke off. Twisted the broken wire where the ball was and had no problems for several years to this day. Saved me $600.

When the dealership does not charge their usual diagnostic fee that I usually always paid for, definitely didn’t trust them on this repair.

elric wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 01, 2023 9:14 pm

After listening to the rattle from rough roads in my rear, I took it in to my local shop. As a former Ford owner [and GM] it was a habit to expect the worst and hope for the best.

Nice, sounds like you have a good mechanic.