2016 Nissan Quest rust on rear hatch?

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PoMansVan
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Car: 2016 Nissan Quest SV

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We've had our 2016 Quest SV since May 2017. We bought it used and it was a rental from CA in it's previous life. Technically, this was it's first winter. Disturbingly, I have rust stains at both outer/ lower corners of the chrome piece on the rear hatch that's above the license plate area? It's been so cold and nasty out this winter, I haven't had the chance to dig into it, nor can I see any easy way to remove this piece to investigate.

Question is, has anyone heard of this as being an issue?

I don't see 2012+ Quests often, but I've never seen one with rust.


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PoMansVan
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Here's a pic of it:

Image

amc49
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Quite possible a steel stud inset in the piece to be able to tighten it down at the ends from the backside. You seem to have something under the Nissan emblem as well but may just be dirt.

far raf
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Accidental, cheap paint job

amc49
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They may be cheaper, I certainly notice the difference between my Fords and these Nissan in how long the paint goes before coming off. I've got 16 year old Fords not going nearly so bad as 7 year old Nissan is.

far raf
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It's water based "organic" paints which make a difference. Everything rots these days for the glory of "green" movement, so we end up saving the mother-Earth from conventional paints, but have to use 2x more vehicles as they rust. The law of unintended consequences always comes to bite us in the a**.

amc49
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Acid rain at least here in Texas adds to it...........all my Fords were shot with water based paint. Ford's green issue is wiring and such, it begins to biodegrade as soon as you buy the cars and incredible wire cracking nowadays. They just got ripped over using foam rubber package tray cosmetic covers that turned to dust in less than a year lol.

Part of this is conspiracy theory on my part but nobody can prove me wrong and I can choke you with the facts. The cars once the OEMs were forced to totally go computer now last so much longer they cannot sell as many cars as before and a problem. Yet nobody wants to be the guy who makes lesser powertrains, that would be sales death and enough issue now simply with new designs tested on computer only and no real world testing on them at all and they break as soon as they come out. So what to do? Ford's solution as far as my concern was to go with the same unitizing thing all others are going to now where you create bigger subassemblies out of all the smaller single parts you used to be able to get separately. Parts no longer made for 10 years either, more like 5 and NLA after that. Now you buy a $500 part just to get the included one commonly breaking that used to cost $25. Many specialty bolts and such often have to be ordered with the part to get them too, can't buy separately. As well, they started engineering the parts more to break after a certain period of time, there is no more 'engineered for life', that costs them too much. Rather they want you to buy part after part in a never ending stream and often more than one of many to keep the dealerships open. A lot of it is buried in the 'green' programs, which are actually ones that do that stuff. Like wiring that breaks insulation in 3 years and crumbling to dust in 6. Battery cables that do the work of 6 before but priced at $300 and the copper is so small they melt way ahead of time now. Rad hoses with 5 outlets on one hose at $125. Parts made of plastic when they were metal before, and still not breaking fast enough the later plastic ones will then get weakening holes put in them right at the place you would if you wanted it to break faster. They tell you it's to lighten the cars but part of it is more insidious just like this paint thing. The plan now is not to get the car retired due to bad engines or transmissions, rather to get the weak minded American public to accept the new level of 'ever increasing automotive technology' while making the cars break so many 'nuisance' things people then do not want to fix them any longer, that shiny new car then becomes irresistible.

After sick of that with Ford after 35 years I jumped to Nissan and now seeing much of the same thing, if not doing that they are making say CVT trans that nobody can get parts for to keep all repair at dealers at thousands too much and technology in the electronics (CANBUS, so nobody can understand it!) designed to make sure the average guy has no chance of doing anything at all on the cars anymore. I worked parts in '80 and in '12 and one thing for sure-they haven't gotten any smarter, the average guy trying to work on his own due to 3 jobs at $8/hr. each is so lost he has not a clue as to how to even begin to take care of his own stuff. Millions wasted with the 'family friend' or 'mechanic' ( a gross misuse of the word) or other telling them what to do and no smarter than the owner. The people are so lost all they can do is change part after part and often 4-5 times thinking the next part will be a 'good' one. Such utter idiocy. Enter leasing again and again the whopping increase in how deep they hit your pocket. Ever go to a modern parts store and try to find a parts box with a new part in it that has never been installed before? Rare as hen's teeth now, baby.

They get you coming and going. I sure am glad I learned to look at a car as a tool only and no beautiful thing that gets tore up in 6 months like they do if you drive something nice here in Texas.

Where were we...............oh, yeah, paint............it like all the rest sucks now.

amc49
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The issue with OP may even be that working the release button enough has loosened the lower finsher (the chrome part) enough to begin to chip the paint away at the corners as they move around there, that would be a logical place for it to happen.

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PoMansVan
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amc49 wrote:
Fri Feb 23, 2018 6:41 am
The issue with OP may even be that working the release button enough has loosened the lower finsher (the chrome part) enough to begin to chip the paint away at the corners as they move around there, that would be a logical place for it to happen.
I agree that this sounds like a logical culprit, but that chromed piece is on there solid. I can't detect any movement with it. On top of that, this model is push button open and has a power close/latch to the liftgate, so there's no slamming.

On top of all that, I just noticed more rust. The paint is flaking away on the lower leading edge on the right side sliding door. This area catches spray from the front wheel, so it doesn't stand a chance. Very fed up with this van in terms of body finish. If one winter does all this it's going to be shot before I pay it off.

far raf
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There should be a law that all vehicles sold in North America have to be zinc plated. I am absolutely fed up with having to send a perfectly working car to the scrap yard due to body, subframe and suspension rot. 2004 Quest owners had fist size holes rotten in the subframe where AC condensation drips on them. My subframe is flaking rust and bolts are rusted solid. This is the first vehicle of 6 that I owned where I had to replace the oil pan due to through rust. All those gold colored fasteners and brackets are supposed to be zinc plated, but coating is so thin that it does not help at all. There should be a riot by now.

amc49
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The thin coating.........you hit it on the head. Like everything else (Kentucky Fried Chicken spices) the manufacturers take a product that worked good before and thin it out, adulterate it with less effective, whatever, claiming emission reasons or similar to make more money due to less product used. I'm so conspiracy minded I even suspect it of flu vaccine now, the latest news stories may bear that out.

You guys have it bad up north where the cars rust soooooo bad. Here in Texas they are as solid as new even up to 20 years later and nuts and bolts come right off like normal. However, due to the same idea I just posted above in this post they have decided that the previous method of ice control is 'too expensive' after 75 years and now they have gone to the same cheap salt that destroys the cars so fast up north.

Oh happy day..............

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PoMansVan
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Just an update. I had the service manager from my Nissan dealer look at the Quest today.

As I figured, the Nissan 60 month, unlimited mileage corrosion (by perforation) warranty is about useless. Surface rust concerns are only covered by the 3yr/36K mile factory bumper/bumper warranty.

It was s total run-around so far. Since all service appointments are routed through a call center for this mega dealer chain, I made a detailed appointment request and scheduled an appointment online. That was my first mistake.

A call center person called me a few days later wanting me to explain the situation further. That's when they dropped the first "Sorry. You are out of warranty.. Nothing we can do for you" bomb. The call center suggested I call the Nissan dealer's body shop which I did. The fellow at the body shop was very familiar with the rust issue I am having, but said it was way more common on Altimas and Rogues. Unfortunately he had no say in terms of warranty coverage.

After that call I ran right over to the dealer and asked the service manager to come out and look at the van. He took pics and sent it up the chain to see if they could good will it, but again stated I'm out of warranty being at 50650 miles. He did say that given the volume of Nissans they sell through their 3 local Nissan stores, chances were pretty good at getting a good will repair on this. Such a pain for a vehicle that's barely 2yrs old and barely through it's very first winter.

We'll see how it goes.

far raf
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It's too bad we laid off pitchforks, tar and feathers. Japan manufacturers earned business in NA through exceptional quality and now they are flipping everyone.

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PoMansVan
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Nissan dealer service manager called me back the other day. He claimed they were working out the details of offering me a deal where they pay some and I pay some for the repair. They're working on details and would call me back.

I'm not too keen at all in throwing money at rust repair due to a manufacturing defect on a 2yr/old vehicle that hasn't been through one entire winter yet.

If this were a 4yr/old vehicle, or this was due to a stone chip or door ding? Absolutely. On the liftgate and due to a poor molding design? You really should make good on this 100% Nissan.

far raf
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Make them famous for this!

amc49
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'...all service appointments are routed through a call center...'

That laissez faire attitude tells you exactly what you need to do.

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PoMansVan
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I reached out to the Nissan dealer service manager today. They're going to cover 90% of the cost of the repair. The manager claims he was trying for 100% for me, which is why it took so long for an answer. I guess the most expensive part of the repair per the service manager is the "finisher", which is the chrome piece with all the buttons and camera integrated into it. If they can't salvage and modify that, it's more expensive of a repair. I'm thinking this can't be more than a $600-800 repair, but who knows how they'll fudge the numbers. To me, it's pretty good news and gives me some faith in Nissan and this dealership.

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PoMansVan
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Just a FYI here, WOW I guess that liftage "finisher" piece is expensive!! It has the camera, buttons and license plate light built into it. All for a low $1600 on eBay. :wtf2:

far raf
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A waterproof webcam goes for $30 give or take. A light is $5, and for a waterproof button I'd give them another $5. The shiny piece of plastic is another $10-20 tops.
I too wish I could invoice everyone for arbitrary sums of money like lawyers, doctors, government, and car dealerships do.

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PoMansVan
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I hear you far raf. Prices on components like this, headlamp assemblies, etc are crazy expensive. When I get the van in, in April for this repair, I definitely want an estimate before I give the go-ahead. If my cost is more than $200 or so, they can stuff it. It ain't happening. I'm *assuming* they'll want to keep costs low if they are "paying" 90%, but you know how that goes. It's likely fudge the numbers funny money going on.

mijclarke
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I have a 2012 Quest that I bought 4 years ago from a private owner. I'm beginning to think the real reason they sold it with only 19k miles on it is because of the same rust problem OP is having. Although I think we did notice a tiny bit of rust and the original owner mentioned that he had the dealer replace the chrome part so it's just a vicious cycle. I have the base model S so there is no camera. Our rust looks worse than the OP's. Rust has run practically all the way down to the bumper. I'm too preoccupied worrying about the transmission pre-maturely failing to start formulating a rust solution.

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Mjkkb2
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So was it confirmed the rust is not the sheet metal/body part corroding but the trim itself? Is it the stud/bolt rusting and staining the body as it flows down?

BTW, PMV did you get it repaired. what was your cost?

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PoMansVan
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mjk, I haven't made the appt yet with the dealer for their "we will pay 90%" repair offer. From their initial assessment, the rust is from the sharp lower corners of the trim piece wearing through the paint on the liftgate.

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PoMansVan
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I finally got this repair done and picked the van up from my local Nissan dealership last night. Total cost to me was $53.34. The lift gate looks like new. I have no idea what actions they took to prevent this from happening again, but when I spoke with the body shop originally, they claimed they use something like 3M tape or foam between the trim piece and paint to keep it from happening again.

They wouldn't fix the flaked off paint and rust on the lower leading edge of the right side slider door under this campaign unfortunately. The lower corner of the door sticks out slightly (door slightly out of adjustment), so that edge catches spray kicked up from the front right wheel. The estimate for that was over $700. :facepalm: They gave me a jar of touch up paint.


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