2016 Nissan Engine misfire

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
rajesh1136
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Hey Guys... I'm trying to figure out what's going on in my car.

I have 2016 nissan rogue with 41k on odo. It was involved in a front end collision 2 months ago. Radiator, condenser and few other things replaced.

Now I'm getting p0300 error code with check engine light on.

It's very random and mostly during cold start. Engine will shudder and then pickup.

Took it to dealer and they changed evt sensor and it was fine for few days. Now it's back again.

Also observing rough idle. Car was really good and peppy to drive immediately after the fix.

My car has HID and Car Amp. Not crazy setup just nominal.

Dealer also not able to figure out. They just cleared the code and gave the car back. Asked to report if it appears again. They saying battery, coil and plugs are all okay.

Any help to figure out the issue? Please let me know if need anything from me.

Should I try getting new battery. Or disconnect amp? I may not able to disconnect HID.


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casperfun
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Car: 2009 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - Indigo Blue
Location: Mid-Atlantic States

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Don’t know why battery, amp, or hid would have anything to do with a misfire. Unless wiring problems.

I think something was damaged because of the collision. Your rogue is not that old.

Maybe crash caused a vacuum leak somewhere.

Dirty Mass airflow sensor? Throttle?

O2 sensor damaged perhaps, exhaust system?

Failed head gasket, timing chain got loose. :gotme

Cleared the code? That’s pretty stupid if they didn’t fix it. Go figure, out of sight, out of mind. They are useless. :rolleyes:

Take it to another dealership, this will need some tedious automotive detective work for sure.

rajesh1136
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2016 11:29 am

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casperfun wrote:
Fri Nov 20, 2020 11:06 pm
Don’t know why battery, amp, or hid would have anything to do with a misfire. Unless wiring problems.

I think something was damaged because of the collision. Your rogue is not that old.

Maybe crash caused a vacuum leak somewhere.

Dirty Mass airflow sensor? Throttle?

O2 sensor damaged perhaps, exhaust system?

Failed head gasket, timing chain got loose. :gotme

Cleared the code? That’s pretty stupid if they didn’t fix it. Go figure, out of sight, out of mind. They are useless. :rolleyes:

Take it to another dealership, this will need some tedious automotive detective work for sure.
No wiring problem. I was saying that because of the load on electrical.

Can I do that soap water test for leaks?

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VStar650CL
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Is your scanner any good? You'll be very limited in what you can check without being able to at least stream engine speed, A/F alpha and IVT/EVT readings. If your scanner will do A/F alpha, a small vacuum leak will show up as lean idle that normalizes as RPM's rise.

Definitely clean out the mass airflow. Like most Nissans, your Rogue has no MAP sensor to back up the MAF, so the ECM has no way to tell when the MAF is lying. It can detect a flatlined sensor, but not a butterfly wing in the orifice. Use Brakleen to blow it clear if you don't have compressed air.

Make sure the engine ground is good. The myth about COP and DIS coils dying in groups largely comes from undiagnosed ground problems. Best way to check it is voltage drop, not an ohmmeter. Put your voltmeter on millivolts and with the car running, measure between the block and negative battery post. Anything above 50mV (0.05V) means your ground cable has issues.

Lastly, pull the plugs and see what your eyeballs tell you. If they're dark but not sooty then you might have carbon buildup, especially if you're a grandma driver and not a leadfoot. Easy to fix, fully warm the car and have an assistant rev it above 3K, then put a teaspoon of ATF into any handy vacuum orifice. Carbon on the piston crowns and intake valves will literally be blown to pieces when the ATF vapor hits it. Clean as a whistle in 2 seconds flat.

rajesh1136
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Thanks. I will check. I checked my collision papers. These are the ones kind of connected to engine.

Any of these can cause issues?
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20201121_091813.jpg

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VStar650CL
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Nothing in that vicinity that could cause a misfire except the ground cable.

rajesh1136
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VStar650CL wrote:
Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:28 am
Nothing in that vicinity that could cause a misfire except the ground cable.
I did test with red on engine block and black on battery terminal. I was reading ranging from 0.0 to 0.4 some random time 10 or so.

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VStar650CL
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If it's going to 0.04 that's okay, if it's going to 0.4 then you have a big issue. It shouldn't be fluctuating that much either.
Trace back along the ground cable at each lug to see where the problem is. I.e, check the terminus bolt at the transmission against the negative post, then check the lug attached to it. If there's a big difference, you found the problem, clean up that connection. Or you can just clean them all and re-measure at the block to make sure it's fixed.

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VStar650CL
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PS - If you go over all the cable connections and don't find a major drop across any of them, the ground cable itself is bad.

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VStar650CL
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PPS - It just occurred to me, is that on a millivolt (mV) scale or a volt (V) scale? If it's mV then the bouncy reading is a little weird but the levels are okay. If it's 0.4V then there's trouble.

rajesh1136
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VStar650CL wrote:
Sat Nov 21, 2020 6:33 pm
PPS - It just occurred to me, is that on a millivolt (mV) scale or a volt (V) scale? If it's mV then the bouncy reading is a little weird but the levels are okay. If it's 0.4V then there's trouble.
mV i kept the meter in 200 mV range setting

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VStar650CL
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That's fine then. You can expect some bouncing in the signal on that low a scale, although 10mV is a bit more than usual. Your ground is fine, carry on.

rajesh1136
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I got this fixd scanner and this is what it says.
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VStar650CL
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It's possible, although the mostly-when-cold behavior kind of contraindicates that. Thinking about it, that could indicate a head gasket problem. Have you had the plugs out of it? If not, pull them and use a pencil flashlight to look at the piston crowns. If you find one or two crowns much cleaner than the others, you probably have a weeping head gasket that only leaks into the cylinder after the car is shut down when the hot block cooks the coolant. Then when you restart later, the engine misfires until the coolant is ejected. If one plug is much blacker than the others, you could have a leaky injector that's dripping into the cylinder when the car is shut down. On restart the plug fouls until the extra fuel is ejected. Either way, yanking the plugs may tell you a lot.

rajesh1136
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VStar650CL wrote:
Mon Nov 23, 2020 9:03 am
It's possible, although the mostly-when-cold behavior kind of contraindicates that. Thinking about it, that could indicate a head gasket problem. Have you had the plugs out of it? If not, pull them and use a pencil flashlight to look at the piston crowns. If you find one or two crowns much cleaner than the others, you probably have a weeping head gasket that only leaks into the cylinder after the car is shut down when the hot block cooks the coolant. Then when you restart later, the engine misfires until the coolant is ejected. If one plug is much blacker than the others, you could have a leaky injector that's dripping into the cylinder when the car is shut down. On restart the plug fouls until the extra fuel is ejected. Either way, yanking the plugs may tell you a lot.
I didn't yet. I have to get some tools to do so. Thinking of taking to dealer again. But will try taking the plugs.

In fixd evap test failed too. Anything linked?

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VStar650CL
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Need to smoke test it for hidden vacuum leaks if it threw evap codes. The car runs those tests after it's been parked for awhile and the tank meets certain temperature parameters, not while it's running.

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VStar650CL
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It's called EONV officially, Engine-Off Natural Vacuum. The ECM watches the tank pressure readings as temperature changes with the vent valve closed. If the temp falls but the vacuum doesn't increase, the ECM declares a leak.


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