2015 Rogue SL driver's door window works intermittan

[andygold]

Drivers window switch seems to work intermittently as of a few days ago. If I'm lucky, I get the window to move once every 20 or 30 presses of the button on the driver's door.

I saw a window issue on this forum in regards to a 2016 model, where it was mentioned that the wiring in the umbilical between the door and chassis might have an issue with cracked insulation, shorting or broken wiring. (Thank you VStar650CL)

You either have a bad Master Switch or a broken wire between the Master and the passenger door. Gen2 Rogues are infamous for fatigue failures (broken conductors and failed insulation) in the door umbilicals, so peel back the rubbers and check those first, on both the passenger and driver doors. If the wiring looks okay then chances are the Master is bad or has a burnt ground pin.

If all of that wiring checks out, what is the next most common cause of intermittent window operation? In regards to the "Master", is that a reference to the singular push button switch itself, or something else?

I just recently had the recall performed on the wiring harness on the left side of the dash/footwell. Could there be an issue there to look for as well?

[VStar650CL]

When a window does the "move and stick" thing, it isn't usually a wiring or switching issue. It's usually a weak motor or a binding regulator, in that order. Pop the door panel and put a test lamp across the power wires to the motor (Lavender/Brown and Lavender/Blue) with the motor disconnected. Use a bulb-type test lamp and not a voltmeter. You're testing a power circuit and the right tool is one that needs power, like an incandescent bulb. If it lights every time when working the switch then the problem is in the motor or regulator and not the supply. If it's dim or lights intermittently, then you might have a bad switch or resistance in the wiring. Unfortunately, the only way to test the regulator is to pull the motor and turn it manually, so in practice we usually replace both regardless of which is bad.

[andygold]

Thank you, sir!

[VStar650CL]

[andygold]

I got into the umbilical in the driver's door jamb and I found 2 wires (thicker white/gray, and thicker white/red) both broken. There's about another 10 to 15 thinner gauged wires that have many cracks in the insulation but at this point in time the conductors are still connected. Now that I've found the second broken wire (which I probably broke while looking through the harness), now in addition to the drivers window not working, the passenger front door window stopped working too (from the driver's door switch panel). I taped up the 4 broken ends.

Strange issue though....my daughter gets into the passenger seat today and hits the window button, and the window goes down a bit. The biggest issue is that neither button will get that window to go up now. I figured maybe a fuse issue in addition to the wire issues in the driver's door, but if I tap the passenger front button, that window motor is still getting power (but not to go back up).

Any thoughts on how to get this window closed?

I did try to solder the wires in the door jamb, but even with flux, they would not take solder. The wires are silver colored metal, and not copper colored. Whatever they are made from, they don't like solder. I also tried to put some crimps on the wires, but they are too brittle and broke off leaving them shorter.

I pulled the door panel, and the inside panel in the footwell, and cannot even find where the harness enters the vehicle body when looking up from inside the car. I shined a 3000 lumen light into the opening by the umbilical in the jamb and saw absolutely no light when looking up into the footwell. There's a bunch of harnesses there connecting into what I assume is the BCM, but I can't find the end of the harness to see exactly what I'd have to disconnect.

Anyone know what the part number is for the harness? I went online and the description for the driver's door harness resulted in 5 or 6 different part numbers, so I wouldn't even know which one is the right one.

Lastly, does anyone know the rough approximation of how much a Nissan dealership would charge for this repair? I've seen people online say as little as $300, and as much as $1400.

[VStar650CL]

On a '15 the body harnesses are aluminum, the only way to get the conductors to take solder is with a dip in weak acid like vinegar or dilute muriatic. However, you really shouldn't try to repair it. That problem happens from the bundle being half-twisted the wrong way at the factory, and it's pretty common on gen2's. The whole bundle will eventually fail, not just the wires which are already damaged. The door harnesses aren't terribly expensive or hard to replace, you'll be entirely better off to replace it.

[VStar650CL]

PS - There will be a tag on the harness with the right part number in the format 24125-?????, use that for shopping. Online they usually go for around $180 tops. The connections to the umbilical inside the car will be hidden inside a hole behind the kick panel.

[andygold]

I'm totally unfamiliar with how modern car electronics work in regards to BCM's and the bus!!!! I'm used to old school writing where wires went directly between power and switches.

As a quick fix, just to get my passenger window closed for the time being.....
Can I just remove the passenger door panel, bare two wires at the window motor, and apply 12 volts so I can get that window closed?
The car is currently useless to me with a widow stuck open (where I live, due to theft and weather)

[VStar650CL]

Yep, that will work. Put some masking tape over the switch after you get it closed so nobody's itchy finger recreates the problem.

[andygold]

I ended up opening the umbilical and attached some clip leads to the broken wires. Both windows started working, although the drivers window was pulsing when it reached the top.
I made sure to hit the button on the driver's door that locks out the windows.

[VStar650CL]

That won't lock out the driver's window (or at least it shouldn't, but maybe those wires are trashed too).

[andygold]

Driver's window won't go up or down at the moment, so I guess I'm good in regards to that.

[VStar650CL]

Driver's window won't go up or down at the moment, so I guess I'm good in regards to that.

As long as "down" doesn't work, carry on.

[andygold]

Thanks again for the assistance!