2014 Nissan Rogue Trouble Starting

[vgorcar]

Hi,

We have a 2014 Nissan Rogue that is having problems starting about 80% of the time. The problem is worse when the car is cold, but can happen even after is has been driven. When starting the car using the push button, it gives an error that the key is not detected. It then seems to crank for a bit, and then makes clicking noises and some of the dash lights flash. Eventually, the car seems to start after trying multiple times. A few times, it seems like the radio failed to start immediately after the car started. This happens with both the keyfobs. The battery on the car is fine. Could this be the ignition switch? Any other thoughts on what might be causing this?

Thank you for your help.

[vgorcar]

Here's a link to a video my wife created a couple days ago. It finally starts at the end of the video.

https://youtu.be/h5hn_Z3Sq9g

[VStar650CL]

Clicketies and dimming lights almost always mean a battery or battery connections that aren't "fine". Have you voltage-dropped the battery connectors, and how did you test the battery?

[PeterH_605]

I'd start by changing the batteries in both FOBs, that should hopefully get rid of your key not detected warning and the immobilizer that goes with it.

[vgorcar]

We went to an auto repair place where they checked both the battery and the alternator. They said both were fine. Batteries were also changed on both of the remotes.

[VStar650CL]

Fobs won't cause behavior like that, they can only cause a no-crank. Your car is trying to crank but can't. That's either a low/bad battery, a bad starter drawing too much current, or a bad battery connection. No other choices, it's one of those. Put a voltmeter across the battery posts when it misbehaves (the posts, not the connectors). If the voltage drops very little when it tries to crank, you have a bad connection. If the voltage dips way down when it tries to crank, then either the battery is bad/dead or the starter is bad. If it's the starter it won't respond well to a jump, so if it jumps easily, the battery is bad or dead. That will mean either the part store's tester is crappy or you have a key-off current draw somewhere in the car that's killing it overnight.

[datechboss101]

It's a dead/weak battery. I experienced both a dead battery and a dead starter on one of our old Hondas. What is shown in the video is a weak battery. Autozone and advance auto has battery checks for free. Head over there to check the battery's health. That's how I found out that my 2016 Rogue battery was failing @ 73k miles. First thing for electrical problems like this is to replace the battery with a fresh new battery, then dive into the electrical wirings and fuses.

And in Summer 2020, my MDX had a dead battery. Fully drained and completely dead, no signs of life at all. It wouldn't jump with the POS 19 Rogue and AAA's emergency booster box, until AAA used their heavy duty truck to jump start it.

[macgiver]

VStar and d-boss101 have good advice here , in that order . But a tip I'll give , one I've learned to use many times is IF the positive battery cable ( and inclusive harnessing) which will have the heavy red to the starter main terminal show to be bad - AFTER the battery connection, you may be able to get and make-up a #2 to #1/0 PARALLEL run , crimp eyes at both ends either pre-made or crimped yourself . What you do is bolt one end to existing bolt on positive battery post, then bolt other end to the starter's main post , putting it over the factory one (should be enough threads usually) .
Now youv've just made a solid and parallel additional route to starter without the huge expense , difficult work , potential can of worms of buying the complete FACTORY positive cable 'system' .
Those can cost hundreds $$$$$$ . I did this on my 93 J30 and , no sh%$TT , it actually starts better now than the day I got it !! I crimped my ends , but there are heavy red battery cables terminated in various lengths at A-zone and Oreilly's. Or even car audio stores have all sizes and lengths of heavy cables with 'made' ends .

[VStar650CL]

What you do is bolt one end to existing bolt on positive battery post, then bolt other end to the starter's main post , putting it over the factory one (should be enough threads usually) . Now youv've just made a solid and parallel additional route to starter without the huge expense , difficult work , potential can of worms of buying the complete FACTORY positive cable 'system' .

Careful what you connect to if you do that on a Nissan with a battery card (which is just about all of them). If the starter and alternator are both on the main fusible link as they are on an Altima, you're asking for a fire.

Just an FYI, I get soooooo tired of seeing people replace their hot terminals with parts store crap that doesn't fit right. The factory connector costs $12 at the Nissan parts counter and the cards rarely go bad. So if you need a parallel wire, it probably means you're not taking very good care of the terminals.

[macgiver]

Like I said , VStar got good advice . If this the case , in this particular case , yeah .
VStar knows some SH%$#TT , newer models battery connections may have 'special' additions like current shunts , series fuses etc. and may not lend themeselves to a simplified paralell , or must be inserted at the right place - do gutta know some electric Uncle Jed .I is an electrician , Uncle Jed!
And at the price what VStar mentioned is "what it is " , absolutely go that route ,gotta know the big picture always with electrical stuff , I tend to forget I'm journeyman Union electrician , and electronics tech , and I look at and DO understand those aspects , other laymen can't be expected to .
Apolgies here for maybe oversimplifying or, 'this fits all' implications by me here.
Respect to VStar !!!