2013 nissan quest help transmission fluid level

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westjlw
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2021 9:54 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Quest SL

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Hello,

Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated. Two weeks ago I got the dreaded P1778 code with 156,000 on my 2013 quest SL. I dropped the transmission pan and replaced the stepper motor, which was right in front of me. After replacing and filling with cvt transmission fluid, I took the van for a test drive. Everything drove great and even shifted better than before. A week later on a road trip the van started to not shift out of first gear when stopping for breaks on the road trip. Once I pulled over and shut off the van for about ten minutes, I would start driving and everything was good until the next exit I took or slowed down from highway speed (70mph). So last night, the first day being back home after road trip, I drained some of the transmission fluid. Now when I replaced the stepper motor and re filled the trans fluid I filled it to the top of the hash marks when the engine was cold. After my test drive the dip stick still showed at the top of the hash marks warm. So now I'm wondering if I overfilled the transmission. Now since I've drained some out the dipstick shows fluid between the two notches for cold but at the bottom of the hash marks. Then I started the van, let it warm up to normal temps and shifted through out the gears. When I checked the dipstick while the engine was running, the fluid level was at the very bottom tip of the dipstick. So cold or engine off the fluid is between the notches but just under the hash marks. When the engine is running, warm and after shifting through the gears the fluids are at the very bottom of the dipstick tip. Where should the fluid level be at and should I be paying attention to the fluid level either hot or cold? Please any help or clarification. I've looked at the Nissan factory service manual and it doesn't specify where the fluid should be at on the dipstick other than the add and full marks.


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VStar650CL
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The notches indicate cold range, the hashes indicate warm range. Ideally you should be halfway up the hashes when fully warmed-up.

westjlw
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Car: 2013 Nissan Quest SL

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THANK YOU!!!! The nissan service manual stated the same about checking when it's warm, driving for ten minutes and shifting through all the gears, but it never stated where on the dipstick is the proper level.

westjlw
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One last stupid question, is it okay to add transmission fluid while it's warm and the engine is running?

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VStar650CL
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westjlw wrote:
Tue Jun 15, 2021 11:24 am
One last stupid question, is it okay to add transmission fluid while it's warm and the engine is running?
Yep, but run it back and forth through the gears between each check, then add more if needed.

westjlw
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Car: 2013 Nissan Quest SL

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cool thanks, hopefully I didn't damage any solenoids or sensors. During the road trip when the van wouldn't shift out of first I would pull over and turn off the van for 10 mins or so. Then baby the gas.

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VStar650CL
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westjlw wrote:
Tue Jun 15, 2021 11:55 am
cool thanks, hopefully I didn't damage any solenoids or sensors. During the road trip when the van wouldn't shift out of first I would pull over and turn off the van for 10 mins or so. Then baby the gas.
The belt is what's most likely to be damaged by an overfill, so let's hope you didn't. I'll cross my fingers and toes for you!

westjlw
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Okay now I'm really confused with this transmission. I got home from work today and I followed the correct steps from nissan manual. I warmed up the engine and drove around my neighborhood for 10 minutes. No issues with shifting out of first. I add a quarter at a time of cvt fluid until I'm within a drop or two center of the hash marks. This whole time the engine was running and I shifted through all the gears twice while adding a quarter at a time to the trans fluid. I get in for another test drive. Get to the end of my street and same issue again. Not getting out of first gear. I drive around the area to a 45 speed zone and still in first gear. Going 45 and rpms are at 4000. I pull over, park and turn off the van. I start it back up about a min later and start driving. Like magic zero shifting problems. I continue to drive around the neighborhood and go into 50 speed zones. I'm accelerating hard after stopping at stop signs and trying to recreate the issue. No problem with shifting and I ended up driving another 20 mins or so and was not able to recreate the issue. I'm hoping that turning off the van reset the sensors and solenoids in the valve body and the tcm and ecu realize now that the correct fluid pressure is being detected. Any suggestions please. I'm going later this week to see what code is still setting off the check engine light.

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VStar650CL
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May just be a solenoid or a stepper issue, but you'll need codes to identify it.

westjlw
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Okay on my lunch break I went to autozone. Once again I got the dreaded P1778 code but also now secondary DTC codes. Here is the list of them:

P0725, P0746, P0776, P0868


Of course on my way back to work the van wouldn't shift out of first gear until I pulled over and shut off for about 30 seconds. Then like magic no shifting issues. At this point I'm thinking one of those solenoids went bad, also code P0725 is the only code that doesn't point to one of the solenoids on the valve body. Thinking that would be the easiest first to try and replace but I've noticed that this issue only happens when the transmission fluid has warmed up. I think with me unknowingly over filling damaged the solenoids with to much pressure. Or maybe I should just replace the valve body with new solenoids and stepper motor included. At least according to nissan service manual I don't need to flash ecu or tcm if I replace the valve body.

westjlw
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Or is their a good website that sells just the solenoids on the transmission valve body? I'm mostly finding valve transmission bodies for sale and a few solenoids but not in a pack for all of the solenoids.

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VStar650CL
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Sorry to bear the bad news, but that transmission is gone. P0746 and P0776 along with a stepper code is a sure sign of a dead horse.

westjlw
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Really?! Is it the transmission valve body or the whole transmission itself that is gone?

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VStar650CL
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It only takes a short amount of time overfilled to blow up a CVT. With those codes, the weasel has popped.

westjlw
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Great only had this van for two years and this happens. Is it even worth it to have a reputable transmission shop even look at the cvt?

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VStar650CL
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Look, you can try a stepper and VB, but chances are you damaged both the belt and the front pump. Now the TCM is freaking out when it tries to control the belt and the primary pressure and can't stabilize either one. Since it can't figure out exactly what's happening, you get potpourri DTC's. I harp on the dangers of overfilling practically every week in these forums, and that's why. It's exactly the reason Nissan doesn't put dipsticks in them anymore. There are several right ways, but the price of a wrong way is very costly.

westjlw
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Car: 2013 Nissan Quest SL

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well thanks for the advice. I unknowingly put a bullet in the transmission, which makes this even more frustrating, along with still making payments. By the way what does VB stand for?

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VStar650CL
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Valve Body.

schuylkill
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Car: 2004 Nissan Quest SE

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Man sorry about your misfortune, that really sucks. I'm finding it nearly impossible to know if I have the correct amount of fluid in my 2004 5 speed, not the CVT. If it's not parked on a perfectly level area the reading varies quite a bit. Also I think I have a leak which adds to the variables. I can't give you advice on how to manage your money situation but the CVT transmission seems to be problematic from what I've read. I got my van cheap as a project camping vehicle but I still need to feel that it's reliable enough to take on trips. My first choice for an older van is a Kia Sedona. They seem to be really solid. Good luck with whatever you decide!

schuylkill
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Car: 2004 Nissan Quest SE

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Man sorry about your misfortune, that really sucks. I'm finding it nearly impossible to know if I have the correct amount of fluid in my 2004 5 speed, not the CVT. If it's not parked on a perfectly level area the reading varies quite a bit. Also I think I have a leak which adds to the variables. I can't give you advice on how to manage your money situation but the CVT transmission seems to be problematic from what I've read. I got my van cheap as a project camping vehicle but I still need to feel that it's reliable enough to take on trips. My first choice for an older van is a Kia Sedona. They seem to be really solid. Good luck with whatever you decide!

westjlw
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2021 9:54 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Quest SL

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Ya, me and the wife will basically not drive the van anymore. I'm looking to get a second part time job and save up some money to either pay it off quicker to get rid of it or possibly replace/rebuild the transmission. The van was our second vehicle so at least we have one that's operating good.

westjlw
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2021 9:54 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Quest SL

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Turns out I got some luck. In my small town I found an auto shop that swaps transmission. But only deals with two companies that remanufacture transmissions. So the shop only replaces and accepts remanufactured transmissions from them. I called Friday to see if they have a remanufactured transmission for the quest or if they'll remanufacture my transmission. Will hear something next week.


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