2013 m35h head scratcher

Forum for Infiniti M37, M56 M35h Hybrid and Q70 owners.
ayjay23
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Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:02 pm
Car: 2006 M35
2013 m35h

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Just replaced dead drive battery with the NAPA replacement AGM battery. Fired up right away when I was done. Went to plug in the battery vent and realized it was a different size so I figured I would go back to the shop and get a good fitting plug for it. During that time shut the car down, cleaned up and was going to go back to the shop. Started the car and it was silent as if was on battery power, no big deal put the car in reverse and got a P shift warning light. WTF? Rolled down my driveway and gave it some gas and nothing. Is there a way to reset the ECU? I saw stuff about resetting learned behavior but that’s not gonna help me, car won’t even start now. The original first time I started it, it fired up with no codes, now I have this. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Rogue One on Fri Oct 15, 2021 4:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: TYPO


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VStar650CL
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Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Sounds like maybe that Optima wasn't charged well off the shelf. What's the voltage on it? Did you get a "ready" light when you tried to fire it?

I'm no EV expert, I have the cert but we don't see enough of them here in Arkansas for me to know all the foibles. What I can tell you is that Leafs, Pathy hybrids and Rogue hybrids can all throw really goofy codes when the 12V battery hits "never-never land" around 8V. If the EV system throws them (and it usually does), a lot of times they go limp and won't fire in any way until the battery is up to snuff and the codes are cleared.

ayjay23
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Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:02 pm
Car: 2006 M35
2013 m35h

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I cleared whatever codes I was able to with my scanner. Would love to talk if you were able. Text or message doesn’t really matter, this is just a weird situation

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Can't, sorry, I'm kind of doing this in between other business. But what's the voltage on the Optima with the ignition on? Do you get a green ready light, or a different color?

ayjay23
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Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:02 pm
Car: 2006 M35
2013 m35h

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I don’t have a meter to check actual voltage. I pulled the ignition relay cause I was checking fuses in the trunk. That weird p shift warning went away and my power steering started working. Before that I was getting a PS idiot light. My start button is orangish and only green when the car is running btw. Can’t get it to start though so 🤷🏻‍♂️

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VStar650CL
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Nissan/Infiniti hybrids all use the traction motor as a starter motor, so it sure sounds like something is south in your EV system. I know Infinitis are a little different, do you have a red or red-flashing icon in the cluster, a car with an exclamation point through it? If so your EV system has codes, probably in the motor controller since it won't crank. You can try yanking the negative terminal on the Optima to reset everything, but it won't help if it's too discharged. You'll have to get a charger or jump-box on it to assure proper 12V when it wakes up. Once you know the voltage is good, try cycling the key several times with about 30 seconds in between, sometimes the EV codes will go "past" and let you crank up.

ayjay23
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2013 m35h

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I tried to upload a video but it will only let me do photos. I just screen grabbed this though and it does have that symbol with the exclamation.
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VStar650CL
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Yep, you have EV codes. Get a jump-box on it and try yanking the battery ground. If you can wake it up with good juice it may reset and start. Depends what the codes are, but most of the common ones will clear with good voltage and a few key cycles.

ayjay23
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Car: 2006 M35
2013 m35h

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My scan tool doesn’t read the ev codes. Do I need a special scanner? Mine is just a generic cheap one.

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VStar650CL
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Yah, if they won't clear I think you'll need a CONSULT3+ (Nissan's tool) or something very high end like a SnapOn Solus. There are some EV/HEV scanner apps out there for your phone, but I haven't used any and don't know how well they work.

ayjay23
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Car: 2006 M35
2013 m35h

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I was able to pull a code U0293

Lost communication with hybrid power control module. Any suggestions at this point?

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VStar650CL
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Check the fuses for the HEV stuff, you may well have blown one for the HCPM.

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VStar650CL
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*HPCM

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VStar650CL
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gV3gdh ... sp=sharing

Here's a link to your fuse layout. Most are in the fuse and relay box at the bottom of the first page, 64, 68, and 70~74 are for the hybrid systems and are all battery+ connections (hot at all times). Fuse 43 in the IPDM is also a hybrid fuse (traction inverter) but will be hot only with the key on. Use a test light to check them if you have one, a plain old bulb-type is best. Fuses carry power, so a test light that draws some power is the right tool. If it lights on both sides then the fuse is good. Fuses often crack or blow at the base instead of the center, so visual inspection alone is NOT a good idea.

ayjay23
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Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:02 pm
Car: 2006 M35
2013 m35h

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Found something thanks to your diagram. I’m assuming it’s the whole piece that needs to be replaced. Looks like I probably arc’ed when I was installing the battery. It’s a bummer, it looking like it’s something that I could repair too on that fusible link with some solder. As a baindaid not a permanent fix. I’m only thinking that cause it’s Sunday and I can’t get a replacement till tomorrow.

ayjay23
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:02 pm
Car: 2006 M35
2013 m35h

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Found something thanks to your diagram. I’m assuming it’s the whole piece that needs to be replaced. Looks like I probably arc’ed when I was installing the battery. It’s a bummer, it looking like it’s something that I could repair too on that fusible link with some solder. As a baindaid not a permanent fix. I’m only thinking that cause it’s Sunday and I can’t get a replacement till tomorrow.
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VStar650CL
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I've seen folks jump them out before just to get to the dealer, the easiest way is to pop the clear plastic off and drive a wood screw into it. That leaves the remaining part of the fuse intact in case there's an actual problem and not just an accidental crack.


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