Hi All,
hope all are doing well. This is my first post and hope I can get some help.

I have Nissan Versa (Tiida) in this part of the world. 1.8 and auto transmission. it has this issue;
When the transmission gets to operating temperature, and I put transmission on D,1,2 the car doesnt move forward. actually i can move the car by pushing it like its on N. if i revs to 2000-3000, it engages the gear the wheels spin and start moving forward. Then it drives normally. but if i put transmission on N then back to D again it wont move. On R no issues it moves in operating temperature. when oil temperature is low (cold start) there is no issues and all gears work fine. I checked the following;
1) No DTC codes
2) oil is new and level is ok
3) Stall is 2100 RPM

Any Idea...??

mac, welcome hakeem , this I'm thinking you didn't mention transmission fluid level ,is there a dipstick?
Because ,see if maybe trans fluid so high even cold, that when it is HOT- foaming due to an overfill & expansion is the reason for slipping maybe. Check this out first off ,good luck.

Hi,

Thank you for your prompt response.

Oil level is ok. Also I did a pressure test, when I put car on D and it doesnt move there is no pressure. but when i accelerate to 2000 rpm then gear engages and pressure readings within specs. looks like something stuck that prevent gear engagement. but once it engages everything works fine.

mac, At this point a "Transmission Self diagnostic test(manual instr.)to get the all clear on solenoids/ VSS,TCM etc.,then "drain/pan drop&clean/new filter-screen/Factory fluid " be done ,then come on back.
Really gotta try this next , since "stall" seems good AND it does properly run "at times".Not too expensive ,and most would agree this is a "determinate" maintenance and probable repair step.

p.s. I've noticed many transmission valve-body bolts are LOOSE , especially "first-time-pan-drops" , gotta SNUG ALL bolts (even under filter screen) to spec - this "holds" pressure in the complex valve body circuits and "accumulators" , keeps from "bleeding out".

Hi,

Just little update. So I tried everything mentioned above with no luck. so next step was to open transmission. I ordered a rebuild kit. and followed alldata instruction to overhual auto transmission for 2010 nissan versa 1.8L. which is same transmission as my 2012 tiida 1.8L.

upon inspection it the forward cluch and over run cluch where engaging at the same time when applying pressure in forward cluch port. i think this was the issue.

after replacing all seals, o-rings, clutchs, gaskets that came with the kit. Also torqing all bolts to spec. car is working perfect!

thanks for the support.
Hakeem

Uh, no. The clutch and band charts clearly show the two on at the same time in most forward driving ranges...........

amc49 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 03, 2018 9:56 pm

Uh, no. The clutch and band charts clearly show the two on at the same time in most forward driving ranges...........

Well maybe. I am not the one to ask here. but I remember seeing a table that shows clutches and when they engage. if i remember correctly overrun was supposed to engage at WOT. but who knows!

maybe it was just a leak in one of the seals here or there. this is the kit I used Transmaxx 5560204 Transmission Rebuild Kit RL4F03A RE4F03A RE4F03B 98-17. so its probably something in this kit that was broken.

I referenced the service manual tables for engagement. I suspect the overrun clutch is Nissan's name for a coast clutch, or one that provides light friction to provide braking like a manual trans has to slow car down slightly even with the brakes off. Why it mostly is used in ranges other than D, like 1, or 2, say on a mountain going down treacherous road.