2012 SV AWD problems & queries, please ??

[vtsnaab]

This car has some gremlins leading me to believe it may have had some water damage before at some point.

Right now, the worst for me is when the right front door locked & then refused to unlock.
Somehow it resumed working the next time I drove it - but that brings me to ask:

Is there any way to completely & permanently disable the auto locking baloney ??

I found some info that only worked until the next start & then it resumed it's annoyances.

Another very poor thing is the sometimey a/c which lately worked for just minutes on a hot day, then worked flawlessly after dark when it was much cooler.

All things considered I'm now wondering if this car is a bust for me.

Thanks for reading.

[VStar650CL]

On a '12, chances are your lock actuator on the passenger door is simply worn out. They use "toy boat" motors with massive gearing, and the brushes don't last forever. Vis the A/C, what you're describing is most likely just low refrigerant, but you could also have a stuck TXV valve which is freezing the evap in conditions of high humidity and heavy demand. Bad TXV's are very common on both the gen1 and gen2 Rogues.

[VStar650CL]

On a '12, chances are your lock actuator on the passenger door is simply worn out. They use "toy boat" motors with massive gearing, and the brushes don't last forever. Vis the A/C, what you're describing is most likely just low refrigerant, but you could also have a stuck TXV valve which is freezing the evap in conditions of high humidity and heavy demand. Bad TXV's are very common on both the gen1 and gen2 Rogues.

[vtsnaab]

Thanks Very Much for the great reply VStar650CL !!

Regarding the right door - I see no fastenings to remove that panel - how to remove it, please ??

Is TXV the same as an expansion valve ??

I checked the a/c pressures & they were OK.

The warm day I referred to was just ~73F & not humid at all - but=>
The evening of that same day, when the temp was 60-ish with lots of humidity, the a/c came on & worked fine for my hour of driving.

Can you tell me if there is a permanent method to STOP the horrid auto-locking 'feature' ??

Thanks Again.

[VStar650CL]

There are three screws holding the inside door panel to the door, one behind the inside handle and two embedded in the grip. You can see the drawings and instructions starting on INT-11 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FINT.pdf

Yes, TXV stands for Thermal Expansion Valve. When beginning to fail they often work-and-then-don't, then eventually stick wide open. The trick to diagnosing it is to turn the system off for five or so minutes and then see if it wakes up normally. The delay gives ice on the evap a chance to melt. If the delay consistently restores operation, you can be very certain the problem is the TXV.

IIRC there's no way to disable the Auto Lock feature, you can only change the time delay.

[vtsnaab]

Thank You !!!

[VStar650CL]

[vtsnaab]

Thanks Again VStar650CL !!

I'll have a good look at that service manual you linked, that is a great help.

In a previous occupation I did HVAC, so I did know of the idea of the on/off cycling, tried it & it brought no change.
(My Saab 9000 Aero had a failed expansion valve & acted as you described above.)

I did find a little info to disable the rotten auto-locking that is only temporary, so that annoying nuisance seems unavoidable.

[VStar650CL]

If you're sure the refrigerant is okay, then you might have an issue with the compressor connector or the clutch relay. Have you looked to see whether the clutch is engaged when it misbehaves? You can use the Auto-Active Test in the IPDM to exercise the clutch, see PCS-8 here for how to do it:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FPCS.pdf

Here's the rub with checking Nissan HVAC systems -- there are three different devices which have to say, "Okay," before the compressor will engage, and then a fourth device (the IPDM) has to turn on the relay. First, the A/C Auto Amp has to approve, which it won't if any of the sensors is reading Siberia (Ambient for all models, In-Cabin and Intake (evap) for Auto models). Then the BCM has to ascertain that the blower is running. Then the ECM checks the high side refrigerant pressure, and if that whole chain is good, the ECM tells the IPDM to engage the clutch relay. That's why the Auto Active Test is so useful, because it lets you discriminate between electrical problems in the clutch circuit or upstream "vetoes" from other devices without needing to interrogate the CANbus. If the clutch works during AAT but doesn't turn on with the dash controls, you know immediately that somebody is exercising a veto.

[vtsnaab]

Wow - Thanks Again - you are a wonderful help !!

Given that the days are finally getting cooler here, that need may be more easily avoided.
(Also, it is a very complex system rather than just a simple on/off type, meh.)

Most urgent for the 2012 right now is getting rear brake pads, as they are shot.

I'll get that attended to & if the a/c remains problematic come spring, most likely I'll try to get a better Rogue with fewer gremlins !!

Truly, if the 2008 S AWD could magically get titled somehow, I'd likely keep that one instead as it has been a pleasure for 13-14 months already, 'till the fuel tank strap broke.

[vtsnaab]

I posted (mistakenly) about this car's ongoing & serious problems under the nick 'RogueHappy' - but that thread vanished...it was here:
https://www.nissanclub.com/threads/2012 ... le.530095/

I'm now stuck with an unreliable car & I really don't know what to do about it since buying it drained my long-term savings ?!?

Thanks for reading.

[VStar650CL]

https://www.nissanclub.com/threads/2012 ... le.530095/

That link is vectoring to the classified section of a completely different website. That's why the nic was different, you weren't even in Nico. Since the thread seems to have disappeared, I think you'll need to reconstruct it from scratch to get help here.

[vtsnaab]

As always - sincerest thanks VStar650CL.

The 2012 SV AWD I now have had gremlins since it came - but the latest is by far the worst.

After my latest trip for provisions (~45 miles away) throttle response went nutzo;
It was fine, then suddenly became totally unresponsive in D - seemed normal in N, but would not move in D.

When forced to stop, if/when I waited a while it would go again, but sometimes only to ~20MPH.

That was a very nicely cool night of ~49F so any form of CVT overheating seemed unlikely after just a few miles driven after a 1 hour stop.

Further along it got progressively worse - most pronounced after any stop sign until it was bad enough that I shut it down & sat with the hazard flashers on for a while.

After that it somehow got better & the last ~20 miles went by more easily.

Given the complexities of these cars being so dominated by electronics, I cannot even begin to guess what may cause this and desperately hope it is NOT a failing CVT !!
(If it is then this car is a goner as it ate up all my life savings just to get it.)

Thanks in advance for any possibly helpful reply.

[VStar650CL]

Try cleaning the MAF. You probably have some debris in it.

[vtsnaab]

AH-HAH !!
Thanks Again & Again VStar650CL.

The Saab 9000 line was famous for MAF problems & mine had some of those happen.

Is there a page with instructions & a pictorial of it's location which I may follow ??

A *far* better option than having to replace the car, if it works to fix this.

[vtsnaab]

OK, found some possibly useful info:
Replace Mass Air Flow Sensor 2008-2013 Nissan Rogue
https://youtu.be/olrbra6cKFM

Cleaning examples:
https://youtu.be/qTSwG2e171k
https://youtu.be/TOw_RQfEsww

Verified part # info then ordered (because of no mobility & remote location here...) MAF sensor & MAF sensor cleaner.

If this fixes it I shall be utterly delighted.

Thanks Again VStar650CL.

[VStar650CL]

Try cleaning it before you replace it. If you do replace it, make sure to perform an IAVL procedure to calibrate it. Here's the skinny about Nissan MAF's, even a tiny piece of lint or butterfly wing in the wrong spot can make the car run like crap or even disable it. That's because there's no MAP sensor the ECM can compare it to and tell if it's lying. The ECM simply has to trust what the MAF says, and if the MAF is spouting nonsense then the ECM has no clue how much air is really entering the induction. With nonsense air you get nonsense fuel and the engine runs badly or not at all. Try cleaning first, use any sort of induction or carb cleaner. Just don't use general purpose cleaners like Brakleen, those all leave a film.

[vtsnaab]

Thanks Once Again VStar650CL !!

Your instructions are wonderful & appreciated.

I'll clean it 1st, but also wanted to be prepared in case it has failed, hence the new one.

No idea what the IAVL procedure to calibrate a MAF sensor is, so I'll seek info about that now too.

During my Saabing days I was fortunate to be friends with a Saab indie who always took care of the MAF situations for me (and head gaskets, blower motors, belts, etc...).

Again I say - I'll be delighted if this fix makes my car whole & more reliable like my '08 was.

Thanks Again.

[vtsnaab]

Wow - this looks quite involved !!
DIY -- IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING (IAVL) procedures
"nissan...forums....com/threads/diy-idle-air-volume-learning-iavl-procedures.277693"

Hopefully not needed...

[VStar650CL]

Yah, the DIY version without a scanner is a complete PITA. If you have a scanner with Work Support, that's much easier. If you don't, the cheapest out is to get a Veepeak VP11 OBD dongle and download a copy of the CVTz50 app to your phone. CVTz50 is for the transmission but also has basic engine Work Support.

[vtsnaab]

Thanks Again !!

Is CVTz50 a free app by chance ??

I've got a BT OBD dongle, no idea what brand though - is the Veepeak VP11 specifically needed in order to do the IAVL reset ??

[vtsnaab]

In the meantime I did some checking & the app is 4.99 - no biggie.

Here:
https://cvtz50.info/en/elm327/
And the main site there is some info which may help ID a dongle & if needed I'll have to dig mine out to check it more.

[VStar650CL]

Not all OBD dongles give you full function with CVTz50, the app is very fussy. The Veepeak is the cheapest one I've found that works 100% with it. You can get them on eBay for as little as $16:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/177458585351

[vtsnaab]

Thanks Once Again VStar650CL.

I did view that item.

Unlike the other Veepeak dongles listed it omitted mention of CVTz50 & had the number 60 posted.

I did find others with the correct mention for ~$20 & will get one if/when the cleaner has come & been used in hopes that cleaning will bring the needed correction, as was suggested.
(Sadly, the cleaner is paid for but not shipped out yet.)

[vtsnaab]

Wow - getting that MAF sensor out was like the square peg in the round slot !!!
Good thing the back bolt could be removed with a 1/4" drive 7mm socket, or I'd still be scratching my head.

So finally it was out & frankly looked totally clean & shiny like brand new - so I gave it a good spraying with the cleaner, let it dry & contorted it back in...then after warming a bit (its 43F here) took it for a 3 mile 50MPH drive & it SEEMS fine - zero surging or forced stopping.

Tomorrow I'll dare to drive it twice as far - then maybe later farther still if it is OK.

Moving forward though, if I must:
If it turns out that I'm forced to replace that sensor, does the CVTz50 app tell the user exactly what steps to take in calibrating the new sensor ??

Thanks in advance for any help here !!

[VStar650CL]

There's a dedicated button on the app home page for IAVL and idle speed set. I won't give a long winded explanation, but don't mess with the idle speed.

For IAVL, it takes just a few seconds after the parameters are met. Coolant must be 158F or higher, trans temp must be 104F or higher, car must be in park with foot off the gas and engine speed below 1000. Hit the app button and the ECM does the rest.

[vtsnaab]

Thanks Again VStar650CL !!
I did go to the CVTz50 app's own site & found that page, but it is amazingly short on info, hence my query here.

Your reply actually gave WAAAAY better, clearer info than I was able to find - so thanks again.

It seems pretty clear that the car must be well warmed up before attempting the IAVL.

Today (so far...) I did a 7 mile drive with it post cleaning & it gave no trouble a'tall.
Next I'll go for a longer drive & post back here with whatever result may come.

Your help really has me appreciating being a member here !!

[VStar650CL]

You may not have seen it when you sprayed the MAF, but it seems almost certain that you had some sort of hair, lint, spider web, or insect parts stuck in the wrong place. On a microscopic level air is actually viscous and behaves like a fluid, so all it takes is a tiny obstruction making the air divert or swirl around the sensing element to completely skew the readings. If that was indeed the issue, next step is to thoroughly check your airbox to see if there are any holes or deformities (particularly in the filter frame) which may have allowed the culprit past the filter.

[vtsnaab]

Latest (& maybe final...) chapter in this struggle...

On account of the forecasted weather & simple caution we made a 2-car drive to our storage (40+ miles away) yesterday.

The nissan was OK going there, big hills & all, but after sitting there for an hour + it started the same BS all over again before going 10 miles of the drive back & by the time it reached the 1st larger hill it stopped moving 100%.
(Something smelled hot too, no idea what...?)

After sitting with the 4-ways on for ~30 min. & the ambient dropping to ~50F, it got moving again & made it all the way home with just a bit of hesitations.

Today, pre-rain I read its latest CEL code...PO1778 - which I then searched on & found this at 'that dead site':
nissan...club....com...threads/p1778-got-you-down.514441

NO WAY will I be doing what that poster described, nor likely to find any indy honest enough to trust - that is even if the CVT ain't already ruined via the ~300 miles I put on it & whatever came before me.

I'm saddened & disappointed to the extreme.

All things considered I'm almost ready to accept that I was fooled & ripped off and to give up on it altogether in favor of a RAV4 or CRV if any may be found since I need this sized car for moving stuff out of storage.

The '08 fooled me into getting this 2012 - now seems like a BIG MISTAKE on my part.

[VStar650CL]

That sounds like your transmission is going into overheat protection mode. The '10A CVT's without tow packages had no cooler and basically killed the throttle response when they overheated, but without turning on any warning lights. You need to use CVTz50 to check CVT-A/CVT-B, those are the overheating record for the fluid. You can find them using the "CVT Info" button in CVTz50. See this bulletin about the problem:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/ ... 6-2280.pdf

If you just need a cooler, there was nothing special about the Nissan kit. You can get the same results installing a much cheaper Hayden.