2012 Rogue brake light stay on and loss of power from a dead stop
I have changed brake light switch did not help
brake fluid ok
Fuse ok
Any ideas besides going to the dealership.
is there another relay after the brake light switch?
Thanks for your help
Chris

Factory Service Manuals Rogue - 2012 Rogue - BR BRAKE SYSTEM

Was the rubber stoppe still in place? Lots times that fails before switch does

Stopper in place that was the first thing I checked, I read a lot of posts and in one of them someone was talking about a stop lamp relay after the stop light switch, just not sure where that would be.

I disconnected the battery for 24 hours and when I connected it back up it work fine, brake lights off for a couple miles then it had a problem accelerating and the lights came back on and will not go off. I was hoping the cars computer had reset. But no such luck.

By brake lights on do you mean that the rear lights on the back of you vehicle will not go out or that the brake light on the dash is on? Or both. Describe the "problem accelerating " please. In changing the brake light switch did you cheap out and go to an auto parts store or buy the switch from a dealer?

Lights on the back of the car stay on, the problem accelerating happens when you press the on the gas after coming to a stop and there is no response for maybe three seconds then it starts running as normal. The acceleration problem does not happen all the time, but it appears that the two problems are related. As far as the switch goes it was bought at Auto zone. I did disconnect the both switches from the wiring harness and the lights stay on. Switches made no difference. If I disconnect the battery and wait a hour before reconnecting the lights do not come back on until I drive the car and have an acceleration problem. The lights do work fine up to that point.

I did check the Alternator and it test fine, I did check the engine codes all I got was 0000

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/oem-nis ... witch.html

I found this with a simple search. Genuine Nissan parts and several different part numbers that fit the same vehicle. Perhaps it might be a good idea to double check part numbers with your original brake switch. They also seem to be fairly cheap. I'd try a real switch before I took it to the dealer.

By the way you said you tested the alternator. What reading did you get? I assume you used a multimeter. With your vehicle running it should read between 13.5-14.5V. With your car off and after it's set overnight the battery should read 12.6 or so. I might point out that if it reads 12.2 or below it's essentially a dead battery and can cause all kinds of weird things to happen.

Thanks for your help
The battery read 12.7 car off and 14.3 running. I'm down in Mexico but there is a Nissan dealership close by.

That's perfect. If it was mine I'd try a genuine Nissan switch before I took it to the dealer. I wonder though if you don't have an accelerator sensor issue.

Another thing to keep in mind. I did some research on 0000 code. I'm not sure what code reader you are using BUT, 1: some code readers default to 0000 if there are no codes. Ok sounds simple enough here's the big BUT, 2: the code reader can not access a manufacturer specific code and therefore defaults to 0000 leaving the door wide open to literally hundreds of manufacturer specific codes.

Number 2 may be where you are especially if you have a generic code reader. In addition the brake light problem might be part of the "body" control unit. Any codes in this area will not light a MIL on you dash but will cause problems elsewhere. I found the following. *************

The first character of the five-digit code is a letter, it defines the section or system in the vehicle that the rest of the code is referring too. The letter codes are: P, B, C and U. (There are a few older models with an “E” code to. Treat those like a “P” code.)

The letter “P” represents the powertrain (Engine and transmission)
The letter “B” represents the body systems. This is a rather large list of systems, HVAC, interior lighting, exterior lighting, air bag and seat belt systems, wipers, dash and instrument panel, and electric seats. There are more added all the time.

The letter “C” represents the chassis systems. This generally consists of the anti-lock brake system and its numerous speed sensors. You can find steering-related codes and emergency brake codes here as well.
The “U” represents network codes. These are the codes related to the internal communication between different modules in the vehicle. These codes will also lead you to the other major sections of the car by way of the buss line information.
**************

All codes start with one of the letters Pxxxxx, everyone is familiar with these, they cause a MIL on your dash, Bxxxxx, Cxxxxx and so on these will be codes that do not cause a MIL on the dash.

So with all that in mind you may have to pony up for a new code reader that speaks Nissan or have the dealer put his reader on it to narrow down any problems.

Drove into Guaymas mx to the Nissan dealership and bought a Stop Lamp Relay. I have 10 miles on the car after install and no problems so far. I'll will give a update in a couple days if that takes care of the problem.

I have driven the car the last three days and everything is fine with the car.
It's hard to believe that a Stop lamp relay can cause acceleration problems but that was the cause of all the problems. Thanks for everyones inputs that helped me work through the problem.

straley001 wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 21, 2017 10:32 am

Drove into Guaymas mx to the Nissan dealership and bought a Stop Lamp Relay. I have 10 miles on the car after install and no problems so far. I'll will give a update in a couple days if that takes care of the problem.

I would like to know where is the Stop Lamp relay located. Is it an easy remove/installation? Pictures is highly appreciated.

Same issues. Mechanic changed the brake switch but still the brake is turning on. When I press the brake pedal hard, it disappears.

Thanks in advance!!!