ClaudiaS wrote: ↑Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am
1-while driving once the E brake warning came on. Hadn't bumped it or anything. After pulling over and pushing for the release the light went off.
The e-brake uses a "grounding switch" built into the ratchet mechanism, and they usually engage in the first one or two ratchet teeth. If it was on the first tooth instead of fully released, a feather might make it light up. If it doesn't happen again, I wouldn't worry about it.
ClaudiaS wrote: ↑Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am
2- middle of night while I glanced out window, brake lights were on. No key, no one near it for a whole day. Couldn't get the lights to shut off until I started it and put into drive and then park. Never occurred again.
Nissan brake pedal switches on just about every model are notorious for both sticking and failing. I wouldn't trust it. Aftermarket replacements are cheap, and it's an easy job. No tools needed, twist-out, twist-in.
ClaudiaS wrote: ↑Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am
3-connector for tow lights not working
There are relays (I think 3) that need to be added to the underhood fuse-and-relay box for the tow lights to work. There are also 3 dedicated trailer fuses in the IPDM (right behind the F&R box). If the lights never worked, someone probably installed the 7-pin harness but never added the relays. Relay part number is 25230-79917. If they worked before but don't now, check the fuses.
ClaudiaS wrote: ↑Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am
4-front 2 driver charging ports do not work.
The left and right front sockets are on different fuses, but the righthand one shares its fuse with the console socket. So if the console socket is also out, you probably have 2 blown fuses. For reasons I never understood, Nissan sockets have thermal fuses built into them in addition to the fuses in the fusebox, and the thermals do fail. So 2 bad sockets or a combination of bad sockets and blown fuses isn't out of the question.