Hi,
I have 150,000 miles on it. Only owned for last 10,000. It's in the dealer now, getting 3rd brake light replaced as it was out. Was towed for no start and relay was replaced. Prior to all this, had a few odd things, wondering if related.
1-while driving once the E brake warning came on. Hadn't bumped it or anything. After pulling over and pushing for the release the light went off.
2- middle of night while I glanced out window, brake lights were on. No key, no one near it for a whole day. Couldn't get the lights to shut off until I started it and put into drive and then park. Never occurred again. At that time, 3rd light was not on. Didn't realize it was out as in not working.
3-connector for tow lights not working
4-front 2 driver charging ports do not work.

Thoughts??

ClaudiaS wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am

1-while driving once the E brake warning came on. Hadn't bumped it or anything. After pulling over and pushing for the release the light went off.

The e-brake uses a "grounding switch" built into the ratchet mechanism, and they usually engage in the first one or two ratchet teeth. If it was on the first tooth instead of fully released, a feather might make it light up. If it doesn't happen again, I wouldn't worry about it.

ClaudiaS wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am

2- middle of night while I glanced out window, brake lights were on. No key, no one near it for a whole day. Couldn't get the lights to shut off until I started it and put into drive and then park. Never occurred again.

Nissan brake pedal switches on just about every model are notorious for both sticking and failing. I wouldn't trust it. Aftermarket replacements are cheap, and it's an easy job. No tools needed, twist-out, twist-in.

ClaudiaS wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am

3-connector for tow lights not working

There are relays (I think 3) that need to be added to the underhood fuse-and-relay box for the tow lights to work. There are also 3 dedicated trailer fuses in the IPDM (right behind the F&R box). If the lights never worked, someone probably installed the 7-pin harness but never added the relays. Relay part number is 25230-79917. If they worked before but don't now, check the fuses.

ClaudiaS wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:03 am

4-front 2 driver charging ports do not work.

The left and right front sockets are on different fuses, but the righthand one shares its fuse with the console socket. So if the console socket is also out, you probably have 2 blown fuses. For reasons I never understood, Nissan sockets have thermal fuses built into them in addition to the fuses in the fusebox, and the thermals do fail. So 2 bad sockets or a combination of bad sockets and blown fuses isn't out of the question.

Wow amazing thank you.

You're most welcome. Happy motoring!

Happened to me 93 J30 , AND to buddies Honda Accord that there is a little plastic or rubber 'insert' on the brake pedal arm - higher up under dash - it breaks/falls apart and will be #1 reason for STUCK-ON brake Lts , epecially older cars , cars seeing high amb. temps . When replaced, you may not need the brk sw. itself to be adjusted ! The cars have'em , gotta look , look for the little hole where they're re sposed to reside FIRST before you attack the brk sw. , which of course could be the culpret. Little inserts usually $ 6-12 at dealer!!!

They basically give a "softer" contacting to brk Lt sw than the STEEL pedal arm , ya know , is it's purpose.

macgiver wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 08, 2021 1:36 pm

Happened to me 93 J30 , AND to buddies Honda Accord that there is a little plastic or rubber 'insert' on the brake pedal arm

That was only a problem on earlier stuff with metal-actuator switches, the rubber bumper was there to prevent noise. The later models all have plastic actuators and don't use a bumper, just a plain metal stop. Trust me on this one, the switch is sticking.

Wellllll... picked up truck Thurs. Today drove to the store, came out...no start just click click. Sundays...nothing open. Got a tow finally and a friend came to our rescue to get us 26 miles to home. Gurrr

" just click click " ? ........... 44 mag pointed at it and CLICK - B O O M

Turns out it was the starter. Been fine ever since.

ClaudiaS wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 07, 2021 5:01 pm

Turns out it was the starter. Been fine ever since.

Glad to hear you resolved the no-start, but that won't explain the brake lights. I'd keep an eye on them if you haven't changed the switch. The brake lamps won't deplete your battery as fast as headlights, but they can still easily kill it overnight.