2011 Versa speaker wire problem

[RickLDZ]

Purchased a Versa for my grandson and the seller said the passenger side speaker doesn't work and also when you go higher than half volume the sound is all distorted. Other than that is was a well maintained car and knew my grandson would want me to swap out the radio to something a little more modern and since I figured it was either bad speaker(s) or radio no big deal. Got the car home and definitely an issue so I removed all 4 door panels and unhooked the passenger side front, no difference, then unhooked the driver side no difference. Moved to the left rear passenger side and as soon as I unplugged it the passenger rear on the right side played great! So I plugged in the driver side and it went back to distortion. Unplugged it and went to the passenger side front and there was still no sound but the rear speaker continued to play great. I then started switching the speakers and verified they all worked and worked well. Guess it must be the radio. New unit came in, along with the wiring harness and antenna adapter and 30 minutes later it was all installed. Turned it on and and I had the exact same problem! OMG. Figuring that something in the main wiring harness was probably messed up I'm now at lost as to what I can do. I checked the speaker wire connectors and all tested fine, I even purchased 2 new speakers, cut all 4 connectors and wired a new speaker to the rear passenger side that worked and it played fine. Hooked the new speaker to the other rear passenger and suddenly it went back to the static and distortion. I have made sure the polarities are correct as per another post I saw on this forum. Anyone have any ideas other than running all new speaker wires?

[VStar650CL]

The gen1/gen2 Versa speakers were infamous for being cheap and crapping out when overdriven, we replaced a lot of them under warranty for people who thought their ride was a portable boom box. That said, if there was a short in the wiring it would probably blow the channel completely, and open would simply kill the sound even if the speaker was good. The only thing it might be is a cross between the push and pull sides of the channel. The way to detect that is to ohm the wires to each other with both ends disconnected, you should get infinity. If that's the problem you can wire around it, but you need to locate the cross. Do that by breaking the connections between harnesses (Door to Body, then Body to Main) and see where the cross disappears. If you don't find it in Door or Body then you know it's in Main under the dash. You can find the wiring diagrams and connector layouts here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2FAV.pdf
...and the connector locations here in the Harness section:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2FPG.pdf

[RickLDZ]

Thanks for the info, we are going to get at it Saturday but I'm also purchasing a small roll of 14 gauge speaker wire. I'll do my best at checking ohms and continuity but I'm preparing to just run new wire. Obviously I was hoping for a simple fix but hey, my grandson will get a little more experience with some of life's inconveniences Thanks

[VStar650CL]

Running new wire will still be easier if you don't need to run it on both sides of the door connector, the umbilical is always hairy. If you isolate which harness the issue is in, then only the conductors in that harness section will need to be jumped out.

[RickLDZ]

Running new wire will still be easier if you don't need to run it on both sides of the door connector, the umbilical is always hairy. If you isolate which harness the issue is in, then only the conductors in that harness section will need to be jumped out.

We ran new wire and speakers work fine, BUT now ONLY THE DRIVERS WINDOW WORKS! What did I do? They all worked fine before, the door locks all work but the other 3 windows don't operate, not even using each individual door switch but the locks do operate. I removed the drivers door panel again, unplugged the connector, inspected it and plugged it back in but still only operates the driver window. Any suggestions?

[VStar650CL]

The way Nissan rear windows are set up (and non-auto passenger windows) they all have their own power wire but they get ground through a "default" throw in the Master switch. That allows the slave switches and Master to coexist without shorting one another out. You can see the schematic and WD here starting on GW-24:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2FGW.pdf

See if fuse #6 is blown, on some implementations the Master will still have battery power even when the RAP supply from the BCM goes down. If #6 is good, check for ground at both of the other wires going back to the Master from any one of the slave switches. If you see 12V and not ground when you work the slave switch, then there's a problem with ground on the Master circuit board, usually inside the Master.

[RickLDZ]

OMG we had the lockout button on! Thanks for all your help!

[VStar650CL]

OMG we had the lockout button on! Thanks for all your help!

That will do it!

You're most welcome, happy motoring.