always hit what it goes through - the knuckle. worst case scenario, just torch the thing and replace the LCA. a new LCA is like $50. dont waste time or energy on this car. i wanted to replace a cv boot, and ended up needing to destroy the lower control arm, hub, sway bar links, tie-rods, etc.unistang wrote:Lower ball joint bolt will NOT budge. I don't have a low end impact gun either. The bolt came off but when trying to break the shaft loose to remove it, it might as well have been welded on.
everything on this f-ing car is seized up good. idk what parts they used, but they all suck balls.What am i doing wrong on the ball joint? I have separated ball joints of this type many times without an issue and most on much older cars. Before i get out a BFH or a 4 foot breaker bar and potentially create a problem that i didn't have in the first place, I figured I'd ask here.
WELCOME TO ROGUE OWNERSHIP & SELF-REPAIR. THIS CAR IS A TOTAL PITAunistang wrote:Guys,
- Caliper slide seized on bottom. Strained a few muscles trying to get that bottom bolt out and everything cleaned up and re-greased. Very evident by the uneven pad wear on the back side of the rotor
- Wheel speed sensor bolt snapped. Drilled and heli-coiled pretty easily.
- Wheel speed sensor frozen. Drilled out.
- Lower ball joint bolt seized. Lets save that for another day, but that's what started this whole thread.
- Torx fitting on the top of the tie rod end stripped out on re installation and i had to cut off the bolt and get a new end. - Wheel speed sensor frozen. Drilled out.
- Shaft on this side took some metal to metal hammering