2011 Rogue HVAC blower motor

[abbybritt]

I have a 2011 Rogue SL w/ auto air. 153,000 miles (90% interstate). The hvac blower does not turn on. The Compressor under the hook does engage but not blower inside. Nothing works. No fan, no defrost, nothing. I have replaced the Fan Resistor amp (that was a pain) and checked the two fuses for the blower, and replaced the blower small blue relay. Still nothing. I am reading that the AC Control Amp (the module with the three knobs on the dash) may be the issue or the blower motor itself. Any suggestions based on experience with this type of issue and this description?

[rayjgold]

I am having the same issue now. Mechanics telling me over 2k to fix.....needing to replace the whole dashboard?!?!?

Did you find a fix? If so, how much was it? i have a 2011 with over 150k miles...... cant see myself paying 2k for a fan.... when the car isnt worth that much now. But buying a new car because of a fan sounds crazy as well.

[VStar650CL]

Blowers on the gen1 Rogues are a PITA because the gas pedal needs to come out, but no blower problem requires replacing the whole HVAC box. The Motor flat rate book quotes 2.6 hours, which is generous if you know what you're doing. An honest shop will quote no more than three. So they either think you have a problem besides the blower, or they're giving you a handjob. Get a second opinion.

[rayjgold]

I was told that in my year....the blower was welded unto the slot and not screwed in like i saw in every video. So they were charging for the motor and the entire dash piece that it was welded unto. We are going to try to get an aftermarket part, break the weld, and then try to get this car to take me closer to 200k before retiring it. Im thinking of going with a Lexus next.....if I get a little scared of throwing away 55k...i may get another rogue. This one has done ok for the last 13 years.

[VStar650CL]

I was told that in my year....the blower was welded unto the slot and not screwed in like i saw in every video.

Welded??????

The HVAC box is plastic, not metal. What a crock.

[VStar650CL]

PS - There's also nothing different for any gen1 Rogue, they all use basically the same HVAC and the same blower. If you've seen a vid for an '08 then you've seen one for a '13. So that "model year" stuff is a crock too.

[rayjgold]

PS - There's also nothing different for any gen1 Rogue, they all use basically the same HVAC and the same blower. If you've seen a vid for an '08 then you've seen one for a '13. So that "model year" stuff is a crock too.

Was told that the change was from Oct 2010 through 2011..... and this is the blower only....did not speak about the HVAC.

I went to a local mechanic....because it is too cold and too involved for me to attempt myself..... and he was trying to get the OEM from the dealership.... and this is the reason they gave for selling the entire dash assembly (2.5k) and not just the blower motor. He is going to get the blower motor and resistor cable??? after market and replace when it comes. I plan to ask about the welding after the part is replaced.

[VStar650CL]

The blower fits into the HVAC box, not the dash.

You'll find the blower R&I instructions here on VTL-16. It's the factory manual, notice it doesn't say a thing about removing the dash. There was a bulletin about removing the knee bracket, but if you're lazy you can temporarily bend that with a big channeloks:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FVTL.pdf

Short story is, you're getting a hose job.

[VStar650CL]

Here, by the way, is the bulletin. If there was any change on any '11's requiring a dash pull, you can bet your buns there would be a bulletin just like it to detail the operation. There isn't one:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/ ... 8-9999.pdf

[itsa300zx]

FWIW, I just replace my blower motor in my 2011 last weekend and it took me only about an hour. 8mm and 10mm sockets with swivel and extension were used. Needle nose pliers to remove the cable harness restrains and cotter pin. Hardest part was removing the old motor and I used a three jaw oil filter wrench to that.
I’m only a shade tree mechanic so I’m sure a qualified mech can do it in the same time frame.

[VStar650CL]

FWIW, I just replace my blower motor in my 2011 last weekend and it took me only about an hour. 8mm and 10mm sockets with swivel and extension were used. Needle nose pliers to remove the cable harness restrains and cotter pin. Hardest part was removing the old motor and I used a three jaw oil filter wrench to that.
I’m only a shade tree mechanic so I’m sure a qualified mech can do it in the same time frame.

+1, like I said, that 2.6 hours is generous. There are lots of shortcuts if you don't do it by the book. Takes me about 1.5 these days, but I'm 70 and working upside down isn't the easiest anymore.

[rayjgold]

FWIW, I just replace my blower motor in my 2011 last weekend and it took me only about an hour. 8mm and 10mm sockets with swivel and extension were used. Needle nose pliers to remove the cable harness restrains and cotter pin. Hardest part was removing the old motor and I used a three jaw oil filter wrench to that.
I’m only a shade tree mechanic so I’m sure a qualified mech can do it in the same time frame.

very cool. not sure why nissan dealerships always try to rip people off..... even for parts..... always trying to make extra money.

Its cold where I am so I will not even attempt....I got scared after watching videos...... but your comment might of made me try, if it were summertime.

Found a mechanic that will attempt for around $500. It was them that Nissan was charging 2.5k for the part. I will let you all know the status tomorrow.

[VStar650CL]

$500 is a fair price. Most places will charge you flat rate plus a little padding, which in this case is about 3 hours. With places typically charging $150+ for labor these days, that's $450 plus parts. The dealer (for whatever reason) was selling you a whole HVAC Unit, which does require a dash pull. That's a whole different story, probably 8~9 hours labor even if you've done a few and have all the tools.

[VStar650CL]

If you're interested, this is what an HVAC R&R looks like. The victim was an Armada and a good bit more complicated electrically than your Rogue, but the process is no different:
so-you-think-you-want-to-be-a-highly-un ... 30956.html

[V6er]

I'm 70

you kidding?!????

[VStar650CL]

you kidding?!????

Nope.

[VStar650CL]

I usually tell people I was born the year the first nuclear submarine was commissioned and suggest they google it.

[itsa300zx]

I'm 70

I'm no spring chicken either. If I had to do these daily, I'd remove the seat and just lay a mat on the floor board. Although this may make the job longer for naps.

Its cold where I am so I will not even attempt....

Can't be any colder than where I'm at, well north of the 49th parallel.
I safely placed a space heater in the car and let it warm up for an hour before and during the replacement. Maybe the cold made me work faster? IDK.

For me I find it hard to pay someone ($100+/hr) to remove and replace nuts, bolts and connectors, although in a specific order.
I just think of it that I just paid myself $400 for the 1 hour job I just did, I guess its more satisfying.

Cheers, hope the mechanic is able to get the job done for you in a reasonable time frame.

[V6er]

I usually tell people I was born the year the first nuclear submarine was commissioned and suggest they google it.

that's 71 then
but, anyway, thumbs up!

@itsa300zs - you also deserve thumbs up!

[VStar650CL]

that's 71 then

Nope. USS Nautilus was commissioned 30 September, 1954. Twenty-one days before my birth (almost to the hour).

[V6er]

Nope. USS Nautilus was commissioned 30 September, 1954. Twenty-one days before my birth (almost to the hour).

I was doing some rounding up... you can round up/down and mathematically...

[VStar650CL]

I was doing some rounding up... you can round up/down and mathematically...

No thank you, I don't need an extra year. Especially a rounding error.

[V6er]

we can always use mod operations (say... how many times you are 18years old)

[rayjgold]

For me I find it hard to pay someone ($100+/hr) to remove and replace nuts, bolts and connectors, although in a specific order.
I just think of it that I just paid myself $400 for the 1 hour job I just did, I guess its more satisfying.

Cheers, hope the mechanic is able to get the job done for you in a reasonable time frame.

Yeah, Ive fixed stoves and furnaces and dishwashers etc.... but if there is any risk of danger to myself/family or me not begin able to put everything back together properly.....I will leave to the professionals.

Also, there are some good shops out there..... I dont mind helping them feed their families occasionally if I have the extra money to do so.

I would of only attempted this in the spring or summer....above 50 degrees.... but it was the taking apart of the gas and break pedal assemblies that i saw in some videos that made me decide not to attempt. If it were a glove box entry....I might of considered it, even now.


Thank you all for the helpful information and diagrams.... that are very helpful and interesting reads.

If you guys want to give me you opinion on my net car...feel free... 13 years is a long time to keep the same car....have to think of retiring it soon. When im in a cheery mode.... I want the Lexus 350h! when Im feeling a bit more stingy....I think about a new fully loaded Rogue or maybe CRV.

What up with the original OP writing one post and then disappearing!

P.S still dont have the car back yet... I will update when I do.

[rayjgold]

ok so the verdict is in. The blower motor was replaced for about $530 including tax. I hear a hum now when it is on high.... but that is better than no defrost and no heat/AC. We still dont understand what the rep at the dealership was trying to sell for 2.5k or why they would not sell the blower motor by itself without the other dash components.

Also, I was informed that the quality of the rogues went down after around year 2015..... parts that usually start breaking down after 100k starts in the newer models after on 50 -60k. So I will not be reupping to a new rogue when this one is done. Apparently there is a merger in the works with honda as well. Might have to go with the Lexus or a toyota when this one is ready to retire.

Thanks again for all the info.

[VStar650CL]

Also, I was informed that the quality of the rogues went down after around year 2015

The quality on the gen2 Rogues was actually pretty good. They had a few bad tendencies, like any model, but the '10D trannies were definitely an improvement over the '10A in your gen1. Enterprising aftermarketeers have come up with a great fix for the one glaring problem they had, stripped mix doors in the HVAC...
https://renegadesolutionscompany.com/pr ... d-gear-box
...$400 but totally bulletproof, we use them on used cars frequently. Lots cheaper and a thousand times easier than $3000+ for an HVAC box. There are also easy DIY fixes for the other annoyances like the sunroof drains and creaky seat springs.

Now the gen3's are another matter. They're such nice cars, but the only model year I would own personally is '21. Those used the tried-and-true PR25 powerplant from the gen6 Altima. The KR15 VC turbo in the subsequent MY's is starting to smell like a huge mistake, we're replacing a lot of them. Ironic, because the new GE series trannies are really solid. They finally unf#cked the CVT's completely, only to f#ck up the engine. Sometimes the decisions upstairs are just too weird for me.

[Dosmastr]

If you guys haven't already figured this out there also videos on YouTube that were very helpful when my blower motor died in my 2011 Rogue.

It's a pretty tight fit getting the old one out and the new one in and it seems like all the new ones are slightly smaller than the old one.