My daughter had someone yank her door handle and messed it up pretty good. It is still operable but I'm not sure for how much longer. I'm hoping one of the cheap ebay offerings will work to replace it. Anything special about the job? Can I swap the lock cylinder? Her remote doesn't work to lock or unlock so she has to use the key.

A few pics.

It looks like you just need a new escutcheon for the cylinder, that's available separately as p/n 80645-CA000. It's out of production at Nissan but there are plenty on eBay and Amazon. If you've done a Nissan door handle before then there's nothing special about it, but for the driver's side the door panel does need to come off because of the connector for the door request button. You'll want to pull the panel anyway to make sure they didn't damage the mechanism behind the handle. The parts drawings here are pretty clear and will probably help you out:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-l ... andle.html

Thanks for your thoughts and the link. Looking at my second pic, the relevant thing I'm trying to show is that the "handle" is broken by the push button and in the third pic, the front of the handle can pull away from the door. The other handles don't do that and I don't remember that one doing it before. Knowing that, should I just grab an entire assembly?

I haven't done a Nissan before, but I did have to replace the passenger handle on the Kia my wife had for the same basic reason. My oldest (who has the Rogue) and her friend were running to the Sportage and her friend grabbed the handle to stop herself as she ran by the door. To say I wasn't pleased was an understatement.

The handle is held in place by it's own rigidity, which it doesn't have anymore. That's why it's pulling away at the base. The inner bracket isn't cheap at $77 and I'm not aware of any China substitutes, so it's only a good idea to get one in advance if budget isn't an issue. Chances are it isn't broken, but that's probably a 75-25 crapshoot.

The whole handle and lock are literally held into the door by one screw (usually torx) hidden behind a plastic plug in the door. Once you have the inside panel off, the antenna connector disconnected, and that screw loose, the rest goes like this:
1) Take the clip loose for the cylinder connecting rod and pop the bottom of the rod loose from the lock actuator arm.
2) Tilt the front of the lock cylinder away from the rear of the handle and pull it out. Sometimes they'll catch on the cylinder arm and need some wiggling, but there's nothing besides that torx screw which actually holds it.
3) Once the cylinder is out, slide the handle toward the back of the car so the front leg comes loose from the inner bracket, then take it out by removing the rear leg first and then rotating the handle outboard to free the front leg. Wiggle the antenna connector out once the front leg is loose.
4) The gaskets 80654N and 80652B are now all that's holding the bracket in place. Unless you're replacing the bracket, try to keep them in place. The bracket slides rearward off small tabs in the sheet metal if those gaskets are removed.
5) Installation is in the reverse order. If it doesn't go together easily, it's usually because one of the gaskets and/or the bracket popped out of place.

Thanks much for the instructions. I ordered the handle so I'll see how it goes.