my son has a 2011 Cube that was having problems passing smog back in April . Coded it out and hot a P0100 indicating mass airflow sensor. replaced the sensor and cheated cleared codes. Took it back too soon, so they said he would need to drive it another 50 to 75 mile before they could scan it.

A week later he was out getting lunch, and the cube just died in the middle of the intersection. I drove to him, andc tried to start out.. it would turn over, but immediately die... the more gas I gave it, the faster it would die. I had it towed back to the house to look further. Coded it and the code ( can't remember of the top of my head) indicated fuel system or cylinder misfire.

tried to start it again, and found if I continually pumped the gas, I could keep it running, but only by pumping it... the moment I stopped... it died.

I replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs, injectors, And the fuel pump in the gas tank... still no change.

I'm guessing now, maybe an air leak somewhere, but I don't know where to start...

Has anyone else experienced anything like this?

just dropped the code reader on it today, but got 2 completely different codes...
P0725
and
C0110 I think...

P0725 is an indirect code in the tranny, it means the ECM stopped transmitting engine RPM. Your chassis code was probably C1130, which is the same thing from the ABS. Neither one means anything, they're both "consequential" to the ECM tossing a code which caused it to stop transmitting. They both may be leftovers from your original MAF problem. There are really just three things that can cause a no-run situation like that without throwing codes. One is a horrendous vacuum leak like a broken intake boot, but you'd probably be hearing that. Another is fuel starvation. You can check that easily with a can of Brakleen or Gumout, spray some down the intake past the air filter. If it runs normally for 5 seconds and then quits again, your problem is fuel. The last possibility is the MAF. Nissans have no MAP sensor for the ECM to double-check the MAF, so the ECM basically has to trust it. If it's lying, you usually get a start-no-run just like you're seeing. Check to make sure it hasn't swallowed a butterfly wing or some other debris, and since it was just changed, check that a wire didn't get twisted and broken. If you have a streaming scanner, check the airflow and see if it looks normal. Most engines draw a bit more than a gallon of air per liter of displacement when cranking, so after you're sure it's clean and there's no broken boot, if it's below 1 gps or above about 3.5 gps then you have a bad-new MAF.

Thank you for the heads up... Bought a new MAF sensor And it started right up.. go figure. Bad new MAF...

now I have another problem. went to drive the car to test performance, got 50 yards away from the house, abs the drivers side tire started shaking uncontrollably. turned the car off, and looked.. both front tires were facing in opposite directions.

Drivers side wheel shows to movement when turning the steering wheel, And can be moved freely back and forth... Im trying to figure out which part I need to replace... Tie Rods? control arm?

Ugh...

If the passenger wheel isn't canted sideways then it's one of the tie rod ends on that side, most likely the outer.