Hi Terry, I'm having a similar crank sensor problem with my 2010 Rogue as well. It starts intermittently and the won't start at all. I have already tried 2 different crank sensors. Could you please tell me where the sensor harness short was located, and did you replace the harness or just splice some wires to bypass the short? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.disallow wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 5:55 pmHey everyone,
Just thought I'd throw this out there as I'm struggling with my car, recently the fuel economy has gotten to the 11-14L/100km or 16-21MPG. We've had the car for about 4 years now, and its always been right at 8-10L/100km before this. (24-28MPG). So a significant drop.
2010 Rogue SL AWD
230k kms on the clock. Owned since 105k kms.
No CELs. No stored codes.
Not running poorly, good performance, acceleration etc.
No funny noises.
Plugs changed last year about 20k km ago.
Air filter is new.
Ran seafoam for a few tanks. Idle has improved. Fuel economy same.
Pretty sure its not a winter gas thing, that usually only affects F/E by about 5-10% or less.
Had an issue last year with the Crank Position sensor, and the ECM power wire. Fixed that. But for a while it was running badly as the CKP sensor harness was shorted. Wonder if running it like this fouled the O2 sensor.
I have an Innova 3100j code reader that monitors the I/M management. It seemed a little hokey at first, but it has indicators for the major engine management systems like EGR, HTR (O2 Sensor Heater), CAT (catalytic converter status)etc. All of these go 'green' after about 10 minutes of highway driving at operating temperature, except for the O2S (O2 Sensors) and EVAP indicators.
Is it possible that my O2 Sensor(s) are getting lazy? Suggestions on what to do? I thought about just replacing the Upstream one, NGK replacement I found for $135 Canadian, which seems like a decent price.
The evap thing makes sense, I would imagine there is a bad actuator in there as when I fill up, the pump clicks off really early and I can usually squeeze at least another gallon and a half or so into the tank. So i don't think my poor fuel economy is based on a bad calculation either, as I do monitor my fuel input vs mileage driven.
Thanks
t
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Terry in Winnipeg
I did take this to an electrical specialty shop and they replaced the harness from the ECM to the sensor. I believe we ended up finding an issue in the connector, but its so tight in there and it didn't cost much to run new wires. Splicing would not be a good idea in my experience.
Thanks for the quick reply.... In my case I do have power to the ECM and my fuse box/IPDM is clean with no corrosion. I'm just not getting a consistent crank sensor signal to-from ECM, hence the car starts sometimes and other times no start due to no spark. I will check the harness from the CKP sensor to the ECM through, but its difficult since its starts from under the starter, behind the intake up to the ECM. Its a real PITA! Hopefully I can avoid spending the $ 800.00 !disallow wrote: ↑Fri Jun 24, 2022 12:08 pmI did take this to an electrical specialty shop and they replaced the harness from the ECM to the sensor. I believe we ended up finding an issue in the connector, but its so tight in there and it didn't cost much to run new wires. Splicing would not be a good idea in my experience.
I would check for corrosion in the ECM area in the fuse panel. If I recall it was a blue wire, but some moisture got in there and thats what caused my intermittent issue. Looking back on this, I also tried another electrical specialty group:
https://www.scannerdanner.com/forum/pos ... html#27813
Its all coming back to me now. We fixed the issue in the fuse panel, but by this time I had borked the connector on the Crank Sensor end (playing with it too much in tight quarters, the connector broke), and the place I took it to replaced the entire 2 wire harness from the fuse panel to the sensor. Worked perfectly after that! And only $800 (including a new nissan sensor).
That was exactly the problem! I had initially replaced the crank sensor with an NTK (made by NGK, supposedly not crap)) sensor which is OEM for many brands of cars. However, the Rogue started up the first time I tried it, but then refused to fire up after that. I bought a Denso sensor (OEM for Rogue) on Amazon for half the price of one in a Nissan package, installed it, and the SUV started right up every single time after that! Unbelievable! Hence my advice to all... use Denso sensors exclusively....