2010 Rogue - Fuel Economy

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
disallow
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:07 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - 110000 km
2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Premium 4x4 - 270000km

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Hey everyone,

Just thought I'd throw this out there as I'm struggling with my car, recently the fuel economy has gotten to the 11-14L/100km or 16-21MPG. We've had the car for about 4 years now, and its always been right at 8-10L/100km before this. (24-28MPG). So a significant drop.

2010 Rogue SL AWD
230k kms on the clock. Owned since 105k kms.
No CELs. No stored codes.
Not running poorly, good performance, acceleration etc.
No funny noises.
Plugs changed last year about 20k km ago.
Air filter is new.
Ran seafoam for a few tanks. Idle has improved. Fuel economy same.
Pretty sure its not a winter gas thing, that usually only affects F/E by about 5-10% or less.

Had an issue last year with the Crank Position sensor, and the ECM power wire. Fixed that. But for a while it was running badly as the CKP sensor harness was shorted. Wonder if running it like this fouled the O2 sensor.

I have an Innova 3100j code reader that monitors the I/M management. It seemed a little hokey at first, but it has indicators for the major engine management systems like EGR, HTR (O2 Sensor Heater), CAT (catalytic converter status)etc. All of these go 'green' after about 10 minutes of highway driving at operating temperature, except for the O2S (O2 Sensors) and EVAP indicators.

Is it possible that my O2 Sensor(s) are getting lazy? Suggestions on what to do? I thought about just replacing the Upstream one, NGK replacement I found for $135 Canadian, which seems like a decent price.

The evap thing makes sense, I would imagine there is a bad actuator in there as when I fill up, the pump clicks off really early and I can usually squeeze at least another gallon and a half or so into the tank. So i don't think my poor fuel economy is based on a bad calculation either, as I do monitor my fuel input vs mileage driven.

Thanks
t
_________________
Terry in Winnipeg


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phmichel
Posts: 260
Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 3:00 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Rogue S AWD
2017 Nissan Quest SV
Location: NW Oregon

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Do a search here on cleaning the throttle body and/or the MAF sensor. If you decide to clean the throttle body, I'd suggest removing it and not doing it on the vehicle.

rabidus
Posts: 57
Joined: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:31 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue
2012 Nissan Quest

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Have you changed the transmission fluid? My 2011 Rogue gets poor gas mileage until it warms up in cold weather, the rpm is a little higher when cold and then goes down after about 10 minutes of driving. It doesn't get that cold here in the southeast US though. It may be worse with bad fluid and colder climates. I wouldn't go any more than 30,000 miles on CVT fluid.

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casperfun
Posts: 1447
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 4:59 am
Car: 2009 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - Indigo Blue
Location: Mid-Atlantic States

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I get 16-17 mpg in the city rock solid.

Must say the oem tires had great mileage.

I'm just happy the original cvt is still alive.

I have the least aerodynamic with heavy exterior accessories, so I am not surprised.

It will get worse when I add all terains after I add some spacer lifts from russia.

User avatar
casperfun
Posts: 1447
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 4:59 am
Car: 2009 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - Indigo Blue
Location: Mid-Atlantic States

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Forgot to say my all terrain with new wheels should be 6 pounds lighter altogether if the numbers are right from the info I get online.

Plan to get 225/75/16 on my 2009 rogue.

disallow
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:07 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - 110000 km
2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Premium 4x4 - 270000km

Post

Thanks for all the replies!

I haven't had a chance to look at the Throttle Body yet, but there don't seem to be any other symptoms pointing at this being the culprit, idle is great, no issues with acceleration or performance. But the exhaust sure smells rich. I am still wondering about my Fuel Air Ratio Sensor (Primary Heated O2 Sensor). Also, no codes. But I will definitely take a look!

Also, I have not changed my CVT fluid for about 60k miles. I checked the fluid and actually had it tested at one point about 10k miles ago at Blackstone, and they indicated it was still good. However, this is definitely on my list, have to buy the fluid. Definitely NOT buying it up here in Winnipeg, as the dealer literally charges $42/qt (canadian currency, so same as $31 USD). Highway robbery. I will be going with the AISIN ATFNS2 for $8.81/qt Canadian, same as the stuff Nissan sells. I will buy it from Rockauto and have it sent to a border parcel service, and pick up when I'm in the area.

But that being said, I don't think the CVT fluid is the culprit here either, transmission does not seem to be having any issues.

Speaking of CVTs, I almost bought a salvage 2010 from the local insurance auction a couple months ago. $400 plus a tow, only had 115k km on it (70k miles). Engine, Trans, rear diff, driveshaft, and all the other good parts on it. But couldn't convince the wife we needed a derelict vehicle in our yard, and it seems that ours, although high mileage, is in pretty good shape. I may not need a transmission. Hope not! Though if the time comes, it does look like I can get one from the local LKQ for about $700 with a 90 day warranty.

disallow
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:07 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - 110000 km
2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Premium 4x4 - 270000km

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and I don't think this 2.5L engine will ever have an issue. Just saw this video of a 2007 Frontier, over a million miles with the 2.5L engine in it. This powerplant is so rock solid. Love it!

rabidus
Posts: 57
Joined: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:31 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue
2012 Nissan Quest

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I'm using Valvoline CVT fluid at the moment, $8 a bottle from Walmart, I drained and filled on January 1st and did it a second time two weeks later. The transmission was whining, the fluid change fixed that. I'll drain and fill every 30,000-40,000 miles. The service manual says change every 60,000 miles or have it checked and to change it at 210,000 miles no matter what.

I bought an air filter from a local auto parts store and threw a lean code, not right a way. The rubber around the filter wasn't as thick as the Fram I replaced it with. I cleaned the mass air sensor and O2 sensor and changed to the Fram air filter and the code never came back after I cleared it.

I drive with O/D off quite a bit, less gas mileage but it's more fun. Occasionally I'll keep it in L on twistie back roads.

qsaghar
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2020 9:36 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL 2WD

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disallow wrote:
Sun Feb 09, 2020 5:55 pm
Hey everyone,

Just thought I'd throw this out there as I'm struggling with my car, recently the fuel economy has gotten to the 11-14L/100km or 16-21MPG. We've had the car for about 4 years now, and its always been right at 8-10L/100km before this. (24-28MPG). So a significant drop.

2010 Rogue SL AWD
230k kms on the clock. Owned since 105k kms.
No CELs. No stored codes.
Not running poorly, good performance, acceleration etc.
No funny noises.
Plugs changed last year about 20k km ago.
Air filter is new.
Ran seafoam for a few tanks. Idle has improved. Fuel economy same.
Pretty sure its not a winter gas thing, that usually only affects F/E by about 5-10% or less.

Had an issue last year with the Crank Position sensor, and the ECM power wire. Fixed that. But for a while it was running badly as the CKP sensor harness was shorted. Wonder if running it like this fouled the O2 sensor.

I have an Innova 3100j code reader that monitors the I/M management. It seemed a little hokey at first, but it has indicators for the major engine management systems like EGR, HTR (O2 Sensor Heater), CAT (catalytic converter status)etc. All of these go 'green' after about 10 minutes of highway driving at operating temperature, except for the O2S (O2 Sensors) and EVAP indicators.

Is it possible that my O2 Sensor(s) are getting lazy? Suggestions on what to do? I thought about just replacing the Upstream one, NGK replacement I found for $135 Canadian, which seems like a decent price.

The evap thing makes sense, I would imagine there is a bad actuator in there as when I fill up, the pump clicks off really early and I can usually squeeze at least another gallon and a half or so into the tank. So i don't think my poor fuel economy is based on a bad calculation either, as I do monitor my fuel input vs mileage driven.

Thanks
t
_________________
Terry in Winnipeg
Hi Terry, I'm having a similar crank sensor problem with my 2010 Rogue as well. It starts intermittently and the won't start at all. I have already tried 2 different crank sensors. Could you please tell me where the sensor harness short was located, and did you replace the harness or just splice some wires to bypass the short? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

disallow
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:07 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - 110000 km
2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Premium 4x4 - 270000km

Post

qsaghar wrote:
Fri Jun 24, 2022 9:45 am
Could you please tell me where the sensor harness short was located, and did you replace the harness or just splice some wires to bypass the short? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I did take this to an electrical specialty shop and they replaced the harness from the ECM to the sensor. I believe we ended up finding an issue in the connector, but its so tight in there and it didn't cost much to run new wires. Splicing would not be a good idea in my experience.

I would check for corrosion in the ECM area in the fuse panel. If I recall it was a blue wire, but some moisture got in there and thats what caused my intermittent issue. Looking back on this, I also tried another electrical specialty group:

https://www.scannerdanner.com/forum/pos ... html#27813

Its all coming back to me now. We fixed the issue in the fuse panel, but by this time I had borked the connector on the Crank Sensor end (playing with it too much in tight quarters, the connector broke), and the place I took it to replaced the entire 2 wire harness from the fuse panel to the sensor. Worked perfectly after that! And only $800 (including a new nissan sensor).

qsaghar
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2020 9:36 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL 2WD

Post

disallow wrote:
Fri Jun 24, 2022 12:08 pm
qsaghar wrote:
Fri Jun 24, 2022 9:45 am
Could you please tell me where the sensor harness short was located, and did you replace the harness or just splice some wires to bypass the short? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I did take this to an electrical specialty shop and they replaced the harness from the ECM to the sensor. I believe we ended up finding an issue in the connector, but its so tight in there and it didn't cost much to run new wires. Splicing would not be a good idea in my experience.

I would check for corrosion in the ECM area in the fuse panel. If I recall it was a blue wire, but some moisture got in there and thats what caused my intermittent issue. Looking back on this, I also tried another electrical specialty group:

https://www.scannerdanner.com/forum/pos ... html#27813

Its all coming back to me now. We fixed the issue in the fuse panel, but by this time I had borked the connector on the Crank Sensor end (playing with it too much in tight quarters, the connector broke), and the place I took it to replaced the entire 2 wire harness from the fuse panel to the sensor. Worked perfectly after that! And only $800 (including a new nissan sensor).
Thanks for the quick reply.... In my case I do have power to the ECM and my fuse box/IPDM is clean with no corrosion. I'm just not getting a consistent crank sensor signal to-from ECM, hence the car starts sometimes and other times no start due to no spark. I will check the harness from the CKP sensor to the ECM through, but its difficult since its starts from under the starter, behind the intake up to the ECM. Its a real PITA! Hopefully I can avoid spending the $ 800.00 !

disallow
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:07 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - 110000 km
2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Premium 4x4 - 270000km

Post

a broken wire or corroded connector could cause your intermittent issue. Thats exactly what was happening with mine. I actually thought I was having an anti-theft or ignition issue at one point, as wiggling my keys at the time I started the car seemed to make a difference, but that was a coincidence.

disallow
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:07 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL AWD - 110000 km
2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Premium 4x4 - 270000km

Post

also using an actual nissan crank position sensor makes a difference. There is a lot of crap out there.

I started with a Spectra Premium one, and it didn't work at all.

qsaghar
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2020 9:36 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL 2WD

Post

disallow wrote:
Fri Jun 24, 2022 1:50 pm
also using an actual nissan crank position sensor makes a difference. There is a lot of crap out there.

I started with a Spectra Premium one, and it didn't work at all.
That was exactly the problem! I had initially replaced the crank sensor with an NTK (made by NGK, supposedly not crap)) sensor which is OEM for many brands of cars. However, the Rogue started up the first time I tried it, but then refused to fire up after that. I bought a Denso sensor (OEM for Rogue) on Amazon for half the price of one in a Nissan package, installed it, and the SUV started right up every single time after that! Unbelievable! Hence my advice to all... use Denso sensors exclusively....


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