2010 Rogue Electronic Throttle Body

[Shane2010rogue]

We bought a 2010 Rogue S/360 for my daughter about 2 years ago. Car has been great, the transmission was rebuilt by Nissan 2.5 years ago. Recently I have been having issues with the electronic throttle body. I have replaced, went through "learning" process and the car ran great for about a day in half. It is now doing the same thing, goes almost like a limp mode. It's not throwing any codes.....any help would be appreciated. I have also put in a new catalytic converter in last couple of months.

[VStar650CL]

Stream the MAF readings and see if they're inconsistent or bouncing around. Nissan ECM's (including your Rogue) mostly have no cross-check for the MAF. They just have to trust the reading, so if the MAF is lying, bad things can happen without any codes being thrown. Since you just changed the TB, first make sure you didn't dislodge any crud which is now stuck in the MAF orifice. It's also common for the loop of wires connecting the MAF to the main engine harness bundle to fatigue and either break wires or develop resistance. The same applies to the bundle connecting the TB to the main harness bundle.

[Shane2010rogue]

Ok, thanks. I'll check for debri, is it better to clean or replace the MAF ? The odd thing about it, the car runs great after i replaced the Throttle Body, the Throttle was very responsive, then a day later driving it, I could feel it losing Throttle response.

[VStar650CL]

All it takes is the tiniest piece of lint or butterfly wing in the MAF to make the engine run catastrophically bad. Like I said, the ECM is completely dependent on it. Non-turbo Nissans don't have MAP sensors which the ECM can use to cross-check the MAF readings. So when the MAF lies, the engine suffers.

Just spray it out thoroughly with some MAF or intake cleaner. Don't use Brakleen or anything that leaves a residue. If that doesn't help, then the problem isn't debris.

[Shane2010rogue]

I will clean, or replace the MAF. Curious IF thar doesn't work.....whats another suggestion?

Thanks in advance, I'll follow-up as soon as I clean or replace. It looks like it's around 100 bucks to get a new one and simple to change

[VStar650CL]

Parts are expensive and electrons are cheap. Before throwing parts at it, scan the MAF readings and see if they're stable and reasonable. The list of things which can cause poor performance without throwing codes is very short. On a gen1/gen2 Rogue, it's basically MAF, fuel pressure, cam/crank sensors, plugged exhaust, and a few other things which are far less likely. Your symptoms don't jive well with cam/crank or exhaust, so that leaves MAF and fuel.

[Shane2010rogue]

So I replaced the MAF sensor......to no help. Car starts easily, idles easy but once you press the accelerator pedal it's very delayed/slow reaching higher RPM. I'm stumped!

[Shane2010rogue]

So I replaced the MAF sensor......to no help. Car starts easily, idles easy but once you press the accelerator pedal it's very delayed/slow reaching higher RPM. I'm stumped!

[VStar650CL]

I sort of misunderstood your original description. That could very easily be a plugged exhaust. Do you get a low-pitched howling noise out of it as the RPM's rise?

[Shane2010rogue]

I do get that noise when it doesn't work correctly. I relearned the throttle control body, car runs great. I relearned this Saturday at 10am, car ran great all day Saturday, Sunday morning but then Sunday evening drove to dinner and issue started all over. When this happens it does sound like a low rpm, muffled sound when pressing the gas pedal. Starting from 0mph the car doesn't want to move must have momentum to keep driving/going forward. The car seems to run well shortly after doing relearn on the throttle control body, but then has issues a cpl days later.

[VStar650CL]

You said the cat was replaced, was the intermediate pipe replaced also? There's a "rear cat" in that pipe which will often clog with debris from a bad front cat if the pipe isn't dropped and emptied out. Debris clogs can come and go randomly, so that's a possibility. The rear cat can also melt and clog itself just like a front cat. The quick test for a clogged exhaust is a vacuum gauge (most parts store will rent one if you don't own one). Normal idle vacuum is 16~22", most Nissans come in at 18~20". When you raise and hold the RPM, it should dip momentarily and then stabilize in the normal range. If instead it gradually drops way off and the engine starts moaning, the exhaust is plugged.

[VStar650CL]

PS - If you don't find anything there, the next thing to check is fuel pressure. Dying pumps are another issue which often evidences as come-and-go.

[Shane2010rogue]

Thanks ill look into the intermediate pipe being clogged. I can't imagine it being a fuel pump, the reason being is because once the throttle control body is relearned the car drives fine. The intermediate seems to be more likely as it can cause that back pressure and cause similar issues.

[ROGUE SL]

Hello Shane2010rogue,

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but my 2017 Rogue was doing the same and it ended up being the transmission. I know you rebuilt the transmission 2.5 years ago but it may have gone out. Those transmissions are not the greatest. Hopefully it's still under warranty from the rebuilt.