I recently bought a 2020 Rogue that had been sitting a while. The battery was completely dead, wouldn't take a charge. Jump start didn't work either. I installed a new battery and it still would not start, so scanned for codes. I got a bunch of codes including one for incorrect crank sensor signal. I replaced the sensor, and it still wouldn't start. I let it sit for a couple of days with the battery un-hooked. Then on the next try it started up the very first time and ran perfectly and smoothly. I thought it was fixed and turned it off. The the next day it wouldn't start again. No CELs on, but a scan showed a stored code "lost communication with the transmission module". My OBD2 scanner will not clear that code. Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Check the TCM fuse (in the IPDM) and use a test lamp to make sure there's juice on it. Sounds like you may have an issue with the TCM or power to it.

BTW, is it actually a '10 or a '20? One of those has to be a typo.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 17, 2022 4:37 am

BTW, is it actually a '10 or a '20? One of those has to be a typo.

Yeah sorry for the typo.. it's a 2010 model.

The TCM fuse will be #58 in the IPDM. The IPDM will be upside down forward of the left strut tower, I can't recall if the intake duct needs to be removed to access it like the gen2 but I think it does. You can find a location drawing here on page PCS-5:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FPCS.pdf

You'll find the IPDM layout with fuse numbers here on page PG-91:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 0%2FPG.pdf

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 20, 2022 1:18 pm

The TCM fuse will be #58 in the IPDM. The IPDM will be upside down forward of the left strut tower, I can't recall if the intake duct needs to be removed to access it like the gen2 but I think it does. You can find a location drawing here on page PCS-5:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FPCS.pdf

You'll find the IPDM layout with fuse numbers here on page PG-91:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?
fsm=Rogue%2F2010%2FPG.pdf

Great, thanks. I'm out of town for a week, and will work on it when I get back and post the results afterwards.

BTW, does that IPDM have replaceable relays, in case the ECU relay is defective?

I believe it does on the gen1 Rogues, but if the engine is communicating and it's only the TCM that's offline, the ECM Relay can't be the problem.

I still have not solved the issue with the 2010 Nissan Rogue. I bought a used ipdm online with the same part number and swapped it in my car, but it did not make any difference at all. I did the ipdm self test and it performed properly. I had to go out of town so I had the car towed to the Nissan dealer for diagnosis they charged me for a couple of hours labor and and reported that while there was power and ground to the coils, there was no signal from ECM hence no spark. They wanted to sell me a new ECM with programming for $1,800. I obviously wasn't going to pay that so I ordered a used ECM, tested and programmed to my car's VIN number, from Flagship One guaranteed to be plug and Play. It took over 2 weeks to arrive, I plugged it in and it did NOT play. Same result, no spark, no start. I was pretty frustrated at this point, but determined to solve the problem. I could not afford Nissan consult software so I ordered a Chinese Nissan tool named SVCI ING off eBay so I could diagnose the sensors and modules myself. Presumably this tool connected to cloud software and you could reprogram all existing modules or install new programming in replacement modules. This tool arrived after 3 weeks with minimal instructions, I plugged it in and it was able to connect to the cloud software and cleared some codes off the TCM, but the ECM showed no stored codes. I tried to reprogram the ECM but the cloud software said the program file for my part number of ECM, was not available! I cleared and reset whatever I could, and the car started up and ran perfectly for half an hour. I studied the live data while the car was running, and all readings were within parameters. I was ecstatic and turned off the car and let it sit overnight in the garage. Next morning I want to start it and the damn thing would not fire up again! No spark no start. I tried diagnosing it with the SVCING , but this time the tool would not connect to the cloud software, and kept giving me error messages. I tried contacting their customer service, but they ignored my messages, giving me a couple of one word answers. This tool is pretty limited, with virtually no instructions and no after purchase support. I would not recommend it.
I I forgot to mention I had also changed the little brown ignition condenser, just to eliminate the possibility of it having failed. I'm totally stumped at this point, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Have you ever replaced the cam sensor? Was the crank sensor OEM or aftermarket? The cam sensors on QR's have a nasty habit of misbehaving but causing the ECM to blame the crank. I'd try an OE cam sensor, and if the crank was aftermarket, try OE. There isn't a lot else that will cause those sorts of in-and-out issues.

Problem solved! After wasting too much time testing the CKP sensor harness, replacing the ignition condenser and checking ECM connectors, I decided to try changing the crank sensor again. That was exactly the problem! I had initially replaced the crank sensor with an NTK (made by NGK, supposedly not crap)) sensor which is OEM for many brands of cars. With the NTK sensor, the Rogue started up the first time I tried it, but then refused to fire up after that. Now I bought a Denso sensor (OEM for Rogue) on Amazon for half the price of one in a Nissan package, installed it, and the SUV started right up every single time after that! Unbelievable!

Oem is the way to go, I try to go that route to avoid problems such as yours.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:21 pm

Have you ever replaced the cam sensor? Was the crank sensor OEM or aftermarket? The cam sensors on QR's have a nasty habit of misbehaving but causing the ECM to blame the crank. I'd try an OE cam sensor, and if the crank was aftermarket, try OE. There isn't a lot else that will cause those sorts of in-and-out issues.

VStar does it again. This forum is very lucky to have you!

darylzero wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 11, 2022 5:02 pm

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:21 pm

Have you ever replaced the cam sensor? Was the crank sensor OEM or aftermarket? The cam sensors on QR's have a nasty habit of misbehaving but causing the ECM to blame the crank. I'd try an OE cam sensor, and if the crank was aftermarket, try OE. There isn't a lot else that will cause those sorts of in-and-out issues.

VStar does it again. This forum is very lucky to have you!

Yup! VStar, you are indeed the star of the forum ! Thanks for all your help and the time you spend replying to the posts.

Awwwwwww.

Happy to help, truly.