2010 Altima SR Blend Door Actuator/air mix door Question

[Magnus911]

Hi - I just got this car and joined this forum, so thanks for letting me join.

I'm having a hard time finding info on this. I have identified that the lower blend door actuator on the driver's side is bad (apparently there is an upper one and lower one on the driver's side). Making buzz buzz buzz noise when moving the HVAC controls and the air getting pumped out is very inconsistent. I put my hand on it and it is clearly the one making the noise.

It's extremely hard to get to as it seems it's located behind the floor/foot heat vent. I was able to take a picture of it and I thought this would be the part number but I cannot seem to find it on any site or am able to confirm one on a website is the right one to buy. And I hear it's easy to think you are getting the right one when it's actually the wrong one.

The number on the broken one is 3K010 30851 with 09 06 24a under those numbers.

If anyone has an idea or really any information or insight on the part or replacement steps it would much much appreciated. I think if I can get one I should be able to swear my way through replacing it.

[VStar650CL]

There's a complete factory SM for your ride here in Nico. You can find the HVAC layouts here, HAC-9 if it's Auto A/C, HAC-104 if it's Manual A/C:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FHAC.pdf

On both systems the lower servo is a mix door (driver side mix for Auto, both sides for Manual). The big upper one is the mode servo. And yes, it's behind a duct and and a complete PITA to get at. You'll need to at least pull the left lower dash and the brace underneath it, then get very creative with screwdrivers.

The numbers on that servo aren't Nissan part numbers. Nissan HVAC servos pretty much all have a 2773x prefix, in this case the system uses a 27732-AL610 for both Auto and Manual.

[Magnus911]

Thank you greatly! Very much appreciated. I am going to dig into this..and would not have without this help!

[VStar650CL]

[Magnus911]

Quick update to close this out. I ordered the actuator noted in this post and went to work. I will say it was satisfying being able to install it and find it fixed the issue completely. I will also say it was amazingly difficult and frustrating to do. When you have a small part that will fit in your hand and you can see on the car where it needs to go...it was pretty shocking it took me over 8 hours to complete this mission.

When they said get creative with screwdrivers they were not kidding. I used at least 15 different screwdrivers trying to turn some screws just a millimeter at a time. In the end I did not have to tear the upper dash a part which I would not have anyway...so saved big $$$ there. I removed the gas pedal and lower dash cover and a few pieces on on the drivers side.

The best I could find on videos was an old maxima video on youtube where a guy had done this same job but didn't show very much of the project. Between that and just staring while laying under the dash thinking about where to go next it ended up taking a long time but got it done. One video noted his hands took a beating getting scratched up and I can say that is the truth.

The one thing I wanted to mention for anyone else attempting this project is that the actuator was attached to the HVAC Box with two screws. I thought there would be three but only two held mine on. One of the screws is located behind the air duct that shoots air down to the driver's feet. Unless you tear everything apart you will want to just put a hole in the right spot through this duct so you can get to the screw. The video I watched showed a picture of what looked like a messy and frustrating job of creating that hole.

After I got very frustrated I began thinking, I wonder if I could heat a screwdriver and punch a hole through it. I test the theory and it worked great....like butter. So I went back and heated a 12 mm socket over my stove, brought it out and pushed it in the spot I thought would give me the proper access and it worked great. It melted the plastic and created a perfectly round hole for me to access the screw with no muscle or swearing needed. So that's my one tidbit for anyone crazy enough to try to do this. Thanks again VStar650CL

[VStar650CL]

For those interested, I get at those rear duct screws using a 1/4" ratcheting box end and 1/4" hex-drive bits from a power driver. That basically gives you the world's slimmest right-angle phillips. Awkward nevertheless, but it gets the job done quickly without needing to break anything.