2009 Rogue - 155,000 miles

Over the last year, I have changed the control arms, inner and outer tie rods, front wheel bearings, both CV axles, etc...

Just last weekend, I changed the rear brakes. Driver side was no problem. Passenger side was HELL!
I removed the lower caliper nut, and tried to swivel the caliper up and it would not budge. I loosened the upper caliper bolt and it would barely move.
I thought it was a frozen caliper, but it turned out to be the caliper bolt was badly rusted. I ended up changing the caliper bracket and the caliper.

My daughter bought this car about 2 years ago. Right as she got it, I changed the alternator, water pump, tensioner pulley, new battery, etc.
Then maybe a year later, changed the items I listed at the beginning of this post because of cracked/broken rubber parts.

So here is my question: Should I keep going and also change out the starter and fuel pump? Or do they tend to last 200,000 miles?
Is there anything else to think about? ( I just remembered I even changed out the pedal sensor last year).

The main reason is this is my daughter's car and I'd like to avoid breakdowns that could be preventable.
At 155,000 miles, I figure most things will breakdown sooner or later.

I've seen starters go way past 200K, I'd leave that alone. Fuel pump wouldn't hurt at that kind of mileage. Vis your brake job, those sliders should always be greased with the same hi-temp grease you use on the pads, and if the rubbers are shot they should be replaced. One common DIY mistake is not seating the rubbers fully over the retainer grooves, that lets water in and almost guarantees a stuck slider at some point in the future.

Makes sense...
If the starter fails, it is not dangerous.

If the fuel pump goes out, not good. I had a fuel pump go out one time on the highway during rush hour.
I was lucky to be on the far right lane, where i could easily pull onto the shoulder.

And as for the caliper pins being greased, I do that. This was the first time I changed it on her car, so whoever did it previously should be shot!

Rockhoundrob wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 09, 2023 11:24 am

And as for the caliper pins being greased, I do that. This was the first time I changed it on her car, so whoever did it previously should be shot!

I prefer hanging by the thumbs, it's more pain and less evidence.

I still have my original 2009 alternator, water pump, tensioner pulley, tie rods, wheel bearings, brake pedal sensor, and fuel pump because it’s still rock solid after all these years, so I’m still stuck with these parts because they won’t die presently.

I did change my starter with a new non-refurbished version a few years back since mine failed. That project was definitely not as easy as it looks online because I had to contort my small frame trying to successfully install that darn starter, but I was extremely satisfied with myself after getting that done!

Here’s a few more projects I personally consider:

1) new or clean wipers w/silicone spray.

2) change pcv valve for oil efficiency

3) change spark plugs

4) and ignition coils

5) original radiator should be on it’s last leg because
one day you will notice steam and you could dangerously overheat and damage your engine in the middle of driving. My heart sunk when I saw my radiator empty. If it wasn’t for my Garmin Gps that allowed me to read my coolant temperature, I wouldn’t have been able to drive and stop to keep my temp below 250-260 degrees and drive a mile or 2 when it was in a lower range. That saved me.

6) clean the throttle body

7) clean mass air flow sensor

8) bleed brake with newer Dot 4 brake fluid which is better for anti-lock brakes.

9) add fuel system cleaner of your choice because ethanol gas is crappy.

10) change cabin/engine air filters

11) rust converter liquid or spray as needed on underbody and I don’t live in the rust belt.

12) change serpentine belt if cracked.

13) add transmission cooler if you’re ocd preventive.

14) dash cams if you have crazy drivers in your city.

15) if legal, l.e.d. backup bulbs for better visibility for your daughter and others.

16) grease the battery post.

17) tire changing kit on point and inflated spare.

18) if you have an unlucky phase with nails, get tire certificates when you get new tires.

19) steering wheel cover, I like it because better control and less slippery to me.

20) zipper booklet like purse to keep insurance and registration.

21) drain/fill transmission every 20-30k miles.

Thanks for the input everyone.
Looking at the last list, I forgot that I installed new sparkplugs and ignition coils, filters, etc...about 10 things you listed.

But I see I need to do the following...
1) Clean throttle Body and MAF
2) Will need to change transmission fluid, crankcase fluid and Differential this Spring. and REALLY ?? Every 20-30K? I would have thought 50K.

It's a CVT, that belt is metal-on-metal. The only thing that keeps the belt from saying howdy to the pulleys is the quality of the fluid. If you need to budget, use Eneos, Idemitsu, or AMSoil instead of NS3, they're all good stuff. But yes, 30K tops.

WOW.. thanks for the input.

I guess having the transmission CV axle seals start leaking was a blessing in disguise! This was last summer.
I had to replace each side at different times and must have replaced about 5 quarts total.

So if I change transmission fluid out this Spring, then I can assume about 50-60% has been flushed out? BTW, I used Nissan NS-3 from the dealer.
Then I am good for 25K? Or do I need to find a way to flush it out 100%?

Does the differential and Crankcase also need to be changed every 20-30K ?

No, 100% isn't necessary. Most of them hold around 7.5 qts dry (an extra quart or so for AWD) and about half comes out with a spill-and-fill. Since you already dropped more than half doing the axles, just go on a regular regimen from here. No on the diff and transfer, 50~60K is fine for those.

GREAT! I think I'll go ahead and do the trans, crank, and diff... that way I have a clean start and will keep track.

Ok, I have a question / possible item to add to the list / + a question . . . LOL

RE: Rockhoundrob . . . not sure if your Rogue is AWD . . .

How about the driveshaft for AWD Rogues?

The front universal joint on our driveshaft broke while my daughter was driving to the store.

The thing is . . . when we got our 2011 Rogue used in 2018, I asked the mechanic if there was any lubrication points that needed to be lubricated. I remember from automotive class back in high school that you wanted to keep everything well oiled and lubed. But the mechanic said that there were no lubrication points anymore. Everything was run it 'til it fails and then replace it.

Now, in retrospec . . . there was a squeaking sound that I could never lock down where it was coming from. It would be there right when you started to move the car first thing in the morning. But disappeared by the time I drove around the corner. I had 3 garages try to identify the sound, but since the sound went away by the time I got to the garage, none of them ever found where a squeaking sound could come from. I even left the car over night with one of the garages, but they did not find where the squeak was coming from.

Now, 4 years later my daughter took the car out to the store . . . and along the way it broke and there was a metal on metal grinding noise coming from underneath. She was able to get it to the side of the road. And we had it towed to the shop.

It was the front universal joint that broke.

The mechanic took out the driveshaft so that we could drive it around until we could get the driveshaft to replace it with. The mechanic told us the price of the driveshaft, but then said if we found one on-line and bought it ourselves it would be a lot cheaper. And I was able to find one on-line. Anyway . . . after the driveshaft was removed . . . there was no squeaking noise anymore. LOL. And none after the new driveshaft was put into place. I asked the mechanic if the universal joint starting to fail could have been the squeaking noise we could never track down, and he said it could very well be. LOL.

QUESTION: Is there any maintenance that you can / should be doing with sealed universal joints?

Also . . . as for something to add to your list . . .

If you don't have a bicycle pump in your car, I would suggest having one.

I have a simple foot pump bicycle pump in my car to fill up my tires.

Whenever I find myself waiting somewhere (waiting for my wife or daughter), I can quickly top up my tires.

The tire guys I take my car to actually say a foot pump is better for your tires than using the air compressor at the gas station because you can never know if the gas station employees empty out the water out of the compressor tank. So if you fill up your tires at the gas station you may be putting water into your tires.

And . . . if you forget to fill up your spare tire (full size) . . . and then need it, if you have a bicycle pump . . . you have a chance of pumping up the spare when you need it.

And . . . there was that one time I got two flats on the same day. I had one spare tire, but in order to be able to drive over to the tire shop to have the 2 tires patched . . . I filled up the 2nd flat with the foot pump so I could hobble over to the tire shop.

The foot pump bicycle pump has been one of the greatest things I've tossed in our Rogue. It makes maintaining the tire pressure in your tires so easy.

Take care!
The Rogue

I’m an old dude, I can’t even remember having a full flat tire, maybe once, I seriously cannot remember. I absolutely never needed to use a spare either.

My curse is mainly getting nails stuck in my tires. I guess it’s better than a full flat. I can usually hobble home or to a tire shop.

I remember foot pumps growing up which were great at the time, but I prefer my portable electronic compressor which I actually just keep in the garage.

I never used a spare for decades since I’m usually lucky with just stupid nails, I mostly hobble home to add a little air to drive to a tire shop for repair or replacement.

Because of my experience, I end up just stashing my spare in the garage and just keep doing what I’m doing. I use to have triple AAA but not anymore, and it was never needed for a flat.

In summary, lucky with no flats, cursed with only nails & low pressure, and never used a spare for decades. Guess I’m lucky.

TheRogue wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 10, 2023 7:50 am

QUESTION: Is there any maintenance that you can / should be doing with sealed universal joints?

There are no grease fittings on the OE or replacement driveshafts, so the only thing you can really do for maintenance is give the spider seals a periodic squirt of WD40 to keep the rubber fresh. There's a guy on YouTube who posted a vid about changing out the U-joints, and you can use joints with grease fittings if you do that. However, it's not a simple operation since the original joints are crimped and lack lock-rings. You'd probably have to DIY it, because I doubt any shop would do it for you.

@casperfun . . .

RE: Luck with no flats.

Well . . . now that you've said that . . . you know what's going to happen. LOL.

For me . . . I get flats often enough that I finally broke down and got a foot pump, breaker bar and proper sized socket for both cars. And all that stuff stays in the car. LOL.

I put it down to where I work. I work in an industrial area of town so there are lots of trucks (with nails and loose sharp objects falling out the back of the truck bed or trailer.) That's probably how I got the 2 flats in one day. Just ran over the same nail with both the front and back tire. LOL. The last time . . . I got a flat on my van, but I've done this so many times it only took me about 10 minutes to lower the spare from the bottom of my van and swap everything out.

For me . . . I get them often enough that I'd rather have a chance to be up and running in 10-15 minutes and on my way rather than wait for CAA. Waiting for CAA could be hours.

But for me, the other benefit is being able to check / touch up my tire pressure with any 5 minutes I am waiting somewhere.

@VStar650CL

RE: WD40

Yes. That sounds like a good idea. Is there any other points to spray with WD40 to keep the rubber fresh?

RE: Adding grease fittings . . . good idea . . . but that is well beyond what I am willing to do. LOL.

I think I saw that in this thread . . .

topic629176.html

But the WD40 is something that I would strongly consider adding to my own maintenance schedule for this and any other vehicle I try to maintain.

Take care,
TheRogue,

On my own cars, I hit just about everything rubber under the car with WD40 once a year or so. CV boots, ball joints, tie rods, links, bushings, exhaust hangers. Plain BUNA and some synthetics actually absorb the stuff and it helps keep them pliable. Except for my old Hyundai which was abused before I got it, I haven't replaced a CV boot in ages. I can't prove scientifically that it's the WD keeping them healthy, but that's my feeling.

TheRogue wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 10, 2023 11:03 am

@casperfun . . .

RE: Luck with no flats.

Well . . . now that you've said that . . . you know what's going to happen. LOL.

For me . . . I get flats often enough that I finally broke down and got a foot pump, breaker bar and proper sized socket for both cars. And all that stuff stays in the car. LOL.

But with WD40……

Which is why I was hesitant in mentioning the nails vs flats, because I know I MIGHT hex myself and ruin my damn luck.

I also had a underbody rubber longevity phase where I would spray all rubber seals, bushings, parts, etc….with 304 aerospace protectant or use at-205 reseal.

I no longer do that as much and accept fate if the rubber goes bad, so be it.

Everything is pretty much original except the axles through the years and finally new control arms a few years back.