Ok, I'm puzzled. I turned my car on and the gauges are not working, nor are the climate control buttons nor audio controls. The infotainment screen does not turn on. I have a warning light for "key", whatever that means. The car otherwise runs and drives fine. The door buttons lock and unlock the car, the power seat and wheel work (though memory function does not appear to), AC is blowing cool air, and the cooled seats work. The speedo and tach do not function, though oddly the fuel level one does. Other indicators like the turn signal arrows, headlights on indicator, and little green cruise control light are all fine. Radar cruise functions normally, though the mini display that shows the distance and speed, etc, does not. Backlights on the gauges do not come on, nor any of the switches of the center console.

Battery was replaced about a week ago.

No fault codes from the ECU on my reader.

The key thing led me to replace the battery. I only have the one fob. Yay used cars.

I looked at all the fuses (both under the hood by the battery and in the driver's side foot well) and they appear to be in tact, though if you know which one it is and I missed it in my frustration please let me know.

I also tried disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes to see if that reset the ECU. (Somewhere on another forum I found via Google mentioned trying that.)

Any further suggestions I could try?

Welcome to the forum!

*might* be the Body Control Module (BCM). Those things control a TON of things in our cars electrical systems.

I was going for a bad gauge cluster, but the additional issues tell me the BCM should at least be looked at,

Call the dealership and get a quote on diagnostics. Sometimes it's well worth the lack of frustration to pay the $150 bucks. Btw, their quote to do the work afterwards might shock you, but just come back and post an update/search around the forum... etc. It almost never ever ends up costing as much as they initially tell you.

Thanks, I'll give them a call. I am perfectly comfortable affecting the replacement of the module if needed (and it looks like BCMs are about $70 for a used one), but it will be good to figure out which item is broken.

Well, I'm a mild idiot. It was the top row "Audio" fuse (the 10A one in the ACC group) that was blown. Missed that one in my initial pass. But hey, no dealership trip and a $2 fix!

All is well that ends well. Thanks for the update.
So, that fuse has solved all your problems including the "Key" warning?

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 18, 2017 6:29 am

All is well that ends well. Thanks for the update.
So, that fuse has solved all your problems including the "Key" warning?

Correct.

merkidemis wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 18, 2017 5:53 am

Well, I'm a mild idiot. It was the top row "Audio" fuse (the 10A one in the ACC group) that was blown. Missed that one in my initial pass. But hey, no dealership trip and a $2 fix!

I'm having the same issue with no audio and no AC control access. Where is this fuse located?

The Acc fuse he referenced is in the cabin fusebox. There's also an "audio" fuse in the underhood Fuse & Relay Box that can take the AV and HVAC offline.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 30, 2022 4:43 pm

The Acc fuse he referenced is in the cabin fusebox. There's also an "audio" fuse in the underhood Fuse & Relay Box that can take the AV and HVAC offline.

Thanks. I’ve checked fuse #82 on the IPDM and the audio fuse #1, 6, 17 and 18 in the drivers side footwell.

Check fuse #37 in the Fusible Link Box.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun May 01, 2022 3:40 pm

Check fuse #37 in the Fusible Link Box.

Fuse B and E are both good. All the fuses are good. I’m starting to think it’s the BCM as the dealer Marco scanner did not detect the ECM and wouldn’t import the car’s VIN info.

The BCM can't prevent the ECM from communicating once the ignition and ECM relays are active. The CANbus is common. So if the car runs then the ECM is alive, which means you have something else going on.

PS - Links B and E can't be causing your issue, B feeds the whole Fusible Link Box and E feeds the IPDM, you'd have lots of other stuff inoperative if either of those was blown. Whatever is wrong has to be downstream from both the Link Box and IPDM. Did you check fuses with a test light, or visually?

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun May 01, 2022 4:46 pm

PS - Links B and E can't be causing your issue, B feeds the whole Fusible Link Box and E feeds the IPDM, you'd have lots of other stuff inoperative if either of those was blown. Whatever is wrong has to be downstream from both the Link Box and IPDM. Did you check fuses with a test light, or visually?

I’ve only checked the fuses visually as I just got my multimeter back this weekend.

Bulb type test lights are better than a VOM for checking power circuits. Fuses have to carry power and a bulb uses some, so the bulb tells you everything you need to know. There are only 4 possible results:
Bulb is bright on both sides: Circuit and fuse are both good
Bulb is dim on both sides: Fuse is good but feeder circuit has resistance
Bulb is out on one side: Fuse is blown
Bulb is out on both sides: Circuit has no power