Hi all,
After came back from a week vacation, My 09Fx35 Awd with 196k miles recently having issues; it doesn't crank, just a single click noise even with battery is connected to a jumper.
Prior to that, the car throwing a lot of codes for a while that caused Abs,brake, Awd, Ses warning light to lite up:
1. P0500
2. P02A00
3. P02A03
4. P0024
May i know where is the location of vss/speed sensor that caused p0500/vehicle speed sensor A? Is it in the tranny or which wheels?
Regarding p02A00 and p02A03: will replacing 2 o2 sensor located before catalytic solve this issue?
Regarding p0024: do i need to replace the magnet retarder on the driver side?
Any suggestion is appreciates. Thank you
2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
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VStar650CL
- Technical Expert
- Posts: 9402
- Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
- Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S
Re: 2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
IIRC, on EX/FX's from that time period the speed signal comes strictly from the ABS. You need to get it scanned with an ABS-capable tool to see what the problem is.
P2A00 and P2A03 can both be caused by small exhaust leaks in the vicinity of the sensors. Partially block the exhaust with a shop rag and check for small or pinhole leaks before condemning the sensors.
The magnet retarders are infamous for failure, the P0024 probably just means a bad one. You shouldn't need to replace the whole retarder assembly, the packs should be the same as the Maxima and available as a service part per bulletin NTB12-116. The service part p/n is 23795-JK21A, NissanPartsDeal has them for about $160.
P2A00 and P2A03 can both be caused by small exhaust leaks in the vicinity of the sensors. Partially block the exhaust with a shop rag and check for small or pinhole leaks before condemning the sensors.
The magnet retarders are infamous for failure, the P0024 probably just means a bad one. You shouldn't need to replace the whole retarder assembly, the packs should be the same as the Maxima and available as a service part per bulletin NTB12-116. The service part p/n is 23795-JK21A, NissanPartsDeal has them for about $160.
Re: 2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
Do you what cause the car no crank, just a single click and the center display went black out for fee seconds. But the instrument cluster stay. ? May i know where is the starter relay, or shall i replace the whole ipdm? Thx
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VStar650CL
- Technical Expert
- Posts: 9402
- Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
- Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S
Re: 2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
It's probably a bad starter and not a bad relay. When the brushes or the contactor ring go bad, you get one big click and then nothing because the solenoid is engaging but no juice is reaching the starter armature. If it's accessible on that model, try giving it a few taps with a heavy hammer while an assistant pushes the start button. If that gets it to spin then it confirms the starter is bad.
Re: 2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
Great, thx so much. I used to have a qx4 for a long time and very happy with it. But my Fx is a different story
Re: 2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
This happens to my 2005 FX45. That said, you would think your 2009 would have revisions that might mean the previous posts will give you some ideas on how to fix your problem.
My car DID the same thing now and then, but no more. The Infiniti dealer wanted to replace the starter too, but that was not the problem. (Just saying. It could be a starter or relay... sure, but not likely if you can start your car with a jump pack. That said, everyone, IMO, should carry a Lithium jump pack if nothing else to avoid a tow.
From a diagnosis point of view you should read this thread, because this describes several stages I went through before I found the fix: topic631897.html
My car DID the same thing now and then, but no more. The Infiniti dealer wanted to replace the starter too, but that was not the problem. (Just saying. It could be a starter or relay... sure, but not likely if you can start your car with a jump pack. That said, everyone, IMO, should carry a Lithium jump pack if nothing else to avoid a tow.
From a diagnosis point of view you should read this thread, because this describes several stages I went through before I found the fix: topic631897.html
Re: 2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
On my car: only a single click although the battery is jumped to a portable charger. Does your fx45 use push button start? Thx
Re: 2009 FX35AWD no start, no crank, just a single click
My 2004 Gen1 FX45 (V8) does not have a push button start, but I don't think this is relevant to a no-start condition.
I think the issue causing a no-start condition should start by looking at the Starter Circuit beginning with the starter and working backwards. I.e., don't let anyone tell you the starter or the starter relay is the problem, because 90% of the time it's not with an Infiniti!
Why do I say that?
I think the starter relay gets energized by the ECM (low voltage). And the ECM will not do this until it gets an "OK" signal from the BCM, which is monitoring your security system and your door locks.
Note: I'm just speculating here based on various symptom correlations I have experienced with my car, but it sounds like this no-start and single click problem affects Gen1 & Gen2 FX35/45 vehicles; and below is my theory on why this is happening. However, other members like Vstar are much more experienced than me, so I welcome their comments and corrections if I misstate anything.
First, I believe we are talking about a weak signal from the BCM to the ECM. Consequently, some owners (and me) found that if you turn the key off and then on again your engine will start normally. So it's not a battery problem, starter problem or relay problem.
In addition, some owners say they fixed their no-start, with a single click, by changing out their AC Amplifier, which is located under the dash radio. And they report this condition mostly occurs on cold days. So, I would bet this is a cracked or aka "cold" solder joint that can be repaired easily after you remove the Air Conditioning Amplifier and open the box.
If the AC-Amp, and a cold solder joint is the root cause, then we are probably talking about "noise" induced problem, which may disrupt the BCM security system; and/or causes disruption on the signal to the ECM, which controls/energized the starter relay low voltage coil. And the net affect is a no-start and signal click. Or it's a current sink problem to ground that makes this signal to the ECM unreadable.
As to why you can start the car using a jump pack, I think this might have to do with the resetting the BCM somehow when you add 12.7V to the battery. (How I do not know. So this is just speculation.) Or maybe a cleaner ground path is established so the ECM or BCM can function maybe the other reason. IDK.
Second, some owners report they can't start their car the next morning; and they also report their auto door locks don't work sometimes or will not work when you first lock, then unlock, and lock the door again.
...Only to find if you wait 15 minutes, the door lock will work once but not repeatedly.
...I think this condition is likely caused by a 50 cent PTCR located inside the door actuator motor. However, getting the door actuator assembly out of the door can be challenging if you never done it before. Further, after 10+ years I believe these PTCR (wafers) inside the door motor start to leak current to ground, which is akin to a slow battery drain and this why your car will not start the next morning. And then one day the drain goes away only to come back some other day.
Note: The dealer will charge $800-$1,200/door to replace the door lock actuator. So that' option is out for most of us. On the other hand, this is a lot of incentive to learn how to change the door motor yourself. (Search this thread on how to do it, but I warn you, it's tricky.) The driver's door gets opened the most so that's the first one I would start with.
Also, I have tried this, but I wonder if you turn off your auto door locks that this will help to avoid the problem. And turn off your seat memory so you relieve the BCM of monitoring these "convenience circuits" which help if the BCM is getting weak. (Again just a theory, but you want to try everything that is easy to do first, right?)
* 4 door actuator motors will cost 50 on Ebay. And FYI, these motors contain the PTCR inside.
Note: The door locking system is monitored by the BCM which includes a security system. And when the door locking system (PTCR) leaks current to ground, it disrupts the BCM, which may mean the BCM can't monitor the security system (on occasion) and the net affect is that you can't start the engine.
==> POSSIBLE SOLUTION: First, you should try reducing the load on the BCM as explained above; and second, you should clean the fuses in the panel next to your foot emergency brake.
Note: If after you clean your fuses and you still have no-start condition, you might try CLEANING YOUR CHASSIS GROUND CABLE CONNECTION as a weak ground is often the cause of many ECM and BCM control problems; and if you have not replaced your Crank Position Sensor (Hitachi Part I got at AutoZone for $45) located by your transmission, on the passenger side, you might do this too.[/b]
GOOD LUCK.
Side note: On one occasion I pressed my dome light on and then off. I then tried to turn the light on again and the switch would not work. I assumed the light bulb burned out.
The next day my battery was dead, but I was able to start the car using a Lithium jump pack. ...And the next day the battery was dead again.
At the same time, I did a YouTube search to find out how to change my dome light bulb, and I took apart the lens cover to be sure I knew what light bulb to buy. And what I found as a sticking light switch. I.e., the bulb was fine and did not need replacement. So I used electrical cleaner and now my dome light works normal.
More importantly, my battery drain issue went away and that was 9 months ago! So, for some reason, it would appear that the dome light switch was sinking current to ground.
I mention all this so you know about the dome light causing a battery drain, and no start. However, this situation is different from the problems of a degraded signal to the ECM or power drain on the BCM. I'm just saying a no-start can be caused by a simple battery drain condition too! That said, make sure your dome and trunk lights are not left on overnight too! ...And I say again, maybe disabling your door locking system will eliminate the ocassional no-start problem... and you will have to use the physical key to open your door from then on. But that's better than being stuck with a tow or huge dealar repair bills. Just saying: Do the easy things first and see what happens.
I think the issue causing a no-start condition should start by looking at the Starter Circuit beginning with the starter and working backwards. I.e., don't let anyone tell you the starter or the starter relay is the problem, because 90% of the time it's not with an Infiniti!
Why do I say that?
I think the starter relay gets energized by the ECM (low voltage). And the ECM will not do this until it gets an "OK" signal from the BCM, which is monitoring your security system and your door locks.
Note: I'm just speculating here based on various symptom correlations I have experienced with my car, but it sounds like this no-start and single click problem affects Gen1 & Gen2 FX35/45 vehicles; and below is my theory on why this is happening. However, other members like Vstar are much more experienced than me, so I welcome their comments and corrections if I misstate anything.
First, I believe we are talking about a weak signal from the BCM to the ECM. Consequently, some owners (and me) found that if you turn the key off and then on again your engine will start normally. So it's not a battery problem, starter problem or relay problem.
In addition, some owners say they fixed their no-start, with a single click, by changing out their AC Amplifier, which is located under the dash radio. And they report this condition mostly occurs on cold days. So, I would bet this is a cracked or aka "cold" solder joint that can be repaired easily after you remove the Air Conditioning Amplifier and open the box.
If the AC-Amp, and a cold solder joint is the root cause, then we are probably talking about "noise" induced problem, which may disrupt the BCM security system; and/or causes disruption on the signal to the ECM, which controls/energized the starter relay low voltage coil. And the net affect is a no-start and signal click. Or it's a current sink problem to ground that makes this signal to the ECM unreadable.
As to why you can start the car using a jump pack, I think this might have to do with the resetting the BCM somehow when you add 12.7V to the battery. (How I do not know. So this is just speculation.) Or maybe a cleaner ground path is established so the ECM or BCM can function maybe the other reason. IDK.
Second, some owners report they can't start their car the next morning; and they also report their auto door locks don't work sometimes or will not work when you first lock, then unlock, and lock the door again.
...Only to find if you wait 15 minutes, the door lock will work once but not repeatedly.
...I think this condition is likely caused by a 50 cent PTCR located inside the door actuator motor. However, getting the door actuator assembly out of the door can be challenging if you never done it before. Further, after 10+ years I believe these PTCR (wafers) inside the door motor start to leak current to ground, which is akin to a slow battery drain and this why your car will not start the next morning. And then one day the drain goes away only to come back some other day.
Note: The dealer will charge $800-$1,200/door to replace the door lock actuator. So that' option is out for most of us. On the other hand, this is a lot of incentive to learn how to change the door motor yourself. (Search this thread on how to do it, but I warn you, it's tricky.) The driver's door gets opened the most so that's the first one I would start with.
Also, I have tried this, but I wonder if you turn off your auto door locks that this will help to avoid the problem. And turn off your seat memory so you relieve the BCM of monitoring these "convenience circuits" which help if the BCM is getting weak. (Again just a theory, but you want to try everything that is easy to do first, right?)
* 4 door actuator motors will cost 50 on Ebay. And FYI, these motors contain the PTCR inside.
Note: The door locking system is monitored by the BCM which includes a security system. And when the door locking system (PTCR) leaks current to ground, it disrupts the BCM, which may mean the BCM can't monitor the security system (on occasion) and the net affect is that you can't start the engine.
==> POSSIBLE SOLUTION: First, you should try reducing the load on the BCM as explained above; and second, you should clean the fuses in the panel next to your foot emergency brake.
Note: If after you clean your fuses and you still have no-start condition, you might try CLEANING YOUR CHASSIS GROUND CABLE CONNECTION as a weak ground is often the cause of many ECM and BCM control problems; and if you have not replaced your Crank Position Sensor (Hitachi Part I got at AutoZone for $45) located by your transmission, on the passenger side, you might do this too.[/b]
GOOD LUCK.
Side note: On one occasion I pressed my dome light on and then off. I then tried to turn the light on again and the switch would not work. I assumed the light bulb burned out.
The next day my battery was dead, but I was able to start the car using a Lithium jump pack. ...And the next day the battery was dead again.
At the same time, I did a YouTube search to find out how to change my dome light bulb, and I took apart the lens cover to be sure I knew what light bulb to buy. And what I found as a sticking light switch. I.e., the bulb was fine and did not need replacement. So I used electrical cleaner and now my dome light works normal.
More importantly, my battery drain issue went away and that was 9 months ago! So, for some reason, it would appear that the dome light switch was sinking current to ground.
I mention all this so you know about the dome light causing a battery drain, and no start. However, this situation is different from the problems of a degraded signal to the ECM or power drain on the BCM. I'm just saying a no-start can be caused by a simple battery drain condition too! That said, make sure your dome and trunk lights are not left on overnight too! ...And I say again, maybe disabling your door locking system will eliminate the ocassional no-start problem... and you will have to use the physical key to open your door from then on. But that's better than being stuck with a tow or huge dealar repair bills. Just saying: Do the easy things first and see what happens.