Hey,
I put in LED bulbs in the high beams but now the DRL don't work. I assume that's because the vehicle is putting out a reduced voltage to the HighBeam when DRL only are one, therefore not activating the bulb.

I assume resistors or other plug and play wiring harnesses won't work because that just makes them draw more power but if the vehicle itself is not putting say 12v out on DRL then it won't activate the bulb. Is the only option to tap the DRL positive wire into an ignition positive?

Thanks

Kevin

I think rouge DRL's are illegal, only the cops, fire, and ambu's can use red in front.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

The DRL setup puts the beams in series to dim them out, and the 6V probably isn't enough voltage to light up your LED's. The type of LED's used in headlight applications generally aren't "dimmable" without PWMing them, so I doubt there's any good work-around other than adding some dedicated LED's to the grille and repurposing/rewiring the DRL Relay. If you want to see how the system is wired, see EXL-183 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FEXL.pdf

Thanks, makes sense. I will read through the manual as well but do you happen to know if the DRL relay is still 12 volts or is it already down at that point? And is there another module presumably called a DRL module which does the switching to six volts for example? If there is a module that goes from 12 to 6 volts, do you know if it's the same wire exiting the module to the headlight or one 12v for HighBeam and one 6v for DRL? In other words, is there a daytime wire and I could just clip that and put 12 volts ignition to the headlight? If there is a separate wire exiting the module for DRL, I could get a 6 to 12 volt converter as well and would be a simple fix.

Just trying to come up with the cleanest easiest way

No, the separate module was on earlier models and Canadian cars. The IPDM drives it on the gen1 Rogues, on request from the BCM. If you look at the wiring, all of the relays are double-throw, they have a Normally-Closed contact (default) and a Normally Open contact (when the relay is activated). When the high beam relays are off and the DRL relay is on, juice flows from fuse #33 into pin 5 of the DRL relay and out through pin 3, into pin 2 of the RH high beam bulb and out through pin 1, into IPDM pin 22, through fuse #43 and the NC throw of the RH high beam relay, through the IPDM to the NC throw of the LH high beam relay and fuse# 44, out of IPDM pin 21 to the LH high beam bulb, and finally to ground on the other side of the LH bulb. Very convoluted, but the result is that the two bulbs are arranged in series and are only half as bright.

To add external DRL's, the upshot is that you can freely snip the wire from pin 3 of the DRL relay (Red) and connect the relay to your externals instead of the headlights. That will fuse your externals through #33 and they'll operate under the same conditions as the dimbulbs did.

I added some external LEDs and tapped them into the red wire of the DRL relay and works great. Not the prettiest looking things but whatever, that are meant to make the vehicle not blend into the highway and get hit... Man that wiring harness is not designed well, about half an inch of extra wire. I wasn't actually able to cut the wire, well could have but then never able to get it back to factory if needed die to no room in there. Ended up carefully soldering the lights wire onto the pin on the relay, not idea but it works and was on the base of the pin so didn't interfere with pushing it all the way in. And no risk of contacting the next pin over. Plus if I switch back to halogen bulbs no mods required.

Thanks for the help

Yah, Nissan relay connectors can be a complete PITA. I'm not surprised if you needed to do some "performance modifications". Glad you got something working though, good job.