For the last two days my horn wasn't working. The key fob horn would toot but pressing the steering wheel gave me nothing. I went out to the driveway to check the fuse and the relay just now but when I got in the car to move it to the shade the horn worked, so an intermittent problem that I'm not sure what to do next. Maybe replace the relay, or at least check that it isn't loose? I've not been in the fuse box for at least a couple years. Or might it be an issue in the wheel? The airbag light has been on for years, I believe it was something with the clock spring that tripped the light.

commanderclif wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 21, 2021 2:04 pm

The airbag light has been on for years, I believe it was something with the clock spring that tripped the light.

There's about a 99.99% chance your clockspring is going south and causing both issues. That's typical of how the spiral flex cable inside a clockspring fails, it begins with a crack in one conductor and gradually creeps across the ribbon until everything quits. It's also common for conductors to make contact in one wheel position and then lose contact in another, so hit-and-miss problems aren't the slightest bit unusual. Replace your clockspring.

Roger that! Hopefully that’s an easy enough job to do!

The only real trick is keeping the spiral lined up with the wheel. If the clockspring turns one full turn off center or the car wheels aren't straight when you install it, the new clockspring will snap when you make your first hard turn. The new part will have a retainer on it to keep it in the center position until you install it. Don't remove it until you have the old one out and are ready to pop the new one in. You'll want to be able to turn the wheel for removing the airbag, so after the bag is loose, don't forget to turn the car wheels back to dead-ahead before removing the steering wheel. There will be factory match-marks on the steering shaft and wheel, but they're usually about 1/2 spline off (typically a hair clockwise), so note which way it's off so you can get the wheel back on in the exact same spot. Airbag codes are "historic", so the light won't turn off until you reset the bag brain either with a scanner or the manual procedure (search other threads for how to do that, there are plenty in here).

Oh man thanks for this! Great advice!! Getting online now to order my replacement and torx bits it looks like I need.
THANKS!!

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:30 pm

The only real trick is keeping the spiral lined up with the wheel. If the clockspring turns one full turn off center or the car wheels aren't straight when you install it, the new clockspring will snap when you make your first hard turn. The new part will have a retainer on it to keep it in the center position until you install it. Don't remove it until you have the old one out and are ready to pop the new one in. You'll want to be able to turn the wheel for removing the airbag, so after the bag is loose, don't forget to turn the car wheels back to dead-ahead before removing the steering wheel. There will be factory match-marks on the steering shaft and wheel, but they're usually about 1/2 spline off (typically a hair clockwise), so note which way it's off so you can get the wheel back on in the exact same spot. Airbag codes are "historic", so the light won't turn off until you reset the bag brain either with a scanner or the manual procedure (search other threads for how to do that, there are plenty in here).

You're most welcome. Let us know how it goes.

So I'm back! I replaced the clock spring and for the most part seems okay but a couple big issues.
Mainly when I took it for a test drive, the anti-skid light came on a few times and the car jittered a bit as the system was engaging. Always while going straight, no issues turning. I had watched a video online about the importance of keeping the clock spring from moving while installing and I noticed on my replacement there was a white clip that kept it from rotating. I left that clip on all the way until I went to replace the the airbag so it was in the correct position the entire time. One test drive not only did the skip light come on a couple times but the be VDC light came on a stayed on till I turned the car off. Second test drive the skip light came on several more times than first but VDC stayed off.

Horn now works, tested cruise control and it still works, control arms for wipers and turn signals all work.

Only other issue is I haven't seemed to be able to get the air bag to go in to the diagnostic mode so that that light will reset. My code reader doesn't seem to have all the features to be able to do anything regarding resetting so I might take it to AutoZone or a place with a better reader to try and reset.

But first want to get this Skid light situation worked out.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:45 pm

You're most welcome. Let us know how it goes.

Some clocksprings come with a new Steering Angle Sensor, some don't. If yours came with an SAS, then the angle has to be zeroed-out. If it didn't, then you may have tweaked the position of the SAS slightly during the install. Either way, performing a zero-point on it should eliminate the slip light. Most good scanners can do a ZP as part of ABS work support. It's a 15-second operation using Consult3+, and it's another 15 to clear out the bag brain codes. So if you have the dealer do it, don't let them overcharge you.

PS - It's easy to forget to plug in the SAS when doing a clockspring, and some clocksprings actually have two receptacles the same size for the clockspring connector, but one of them is a dummy. Looking into it with a mirror will reveal no pins. So first, I'd make sure your connectors are all in place and all in loaded receptacles.

Okay! Upgraded my code reader since none of the local places have one above what I have and I was able to reset the airbag light and its staying off. ABS check was giving me a C1143 code, Steering Angle Sensor System. This code reader does have the Steering Angle Sensor Calibration in it and I ran that. All it did was have me drive forward and without touching the wheel hit the "Next" button and then shortly after it said calibration complete. While driving it though I did the skid light still bump on and off but unlike before both it and VDC were not coming on and staying on. For the duration of the drive around the neighborhood I pressed the VDC off button, went in to ABS and reset the C1143 code and it didn't come back yet. Taking my other car on an errand but figure I'll do a couple more test drives to see if the C1143 code comes back, assuming it will, and then I guess I'll need to do the tear down to check this plug placement as you mentioned.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 28, 2021 11:02 am

PS - It's easy to forget to plug in the SAS when doing a clockspring, and some clocksprings actually have two receptacles the same size for the clockspring connector, but one of them is a dummy. Looking into it with a mirror will reveal no pins. So first, I'd make sure your connectors are all in place and all in loaded receptacles.

If it completed the calibration then it shouldn't be a wiring issue. You'd be getting a "can't communicate" code from the ABS if anything was disconnected. C1143 is an "off center" code, the ABS calculates wheel speed differences (which should be equal when the steering wheel is at 0 degrees) and if they don't match the angle received from the SAS, C1143 gets set. That's why C1143 only occurs when you're moving. If your scanner can stream the wheel angle, it should be very near 0 degrees when going straight down the road. If it's off by more than 1 degree or so then the calibration was off, just re-do it.

Thanks VStar! Did some more test driving, and I ran an all module scan, only code I'm finding now is under Body Control Module, C1725, [Batt Volt Low] FR
While driving around, there is a curve near my house I went around a few times, every time I took it so that it was a right curve I could get the skid system to pulse on and off and then it would stop after the curve. Going around the same curve the opposite direction so a left curve I got no engagement with the skid system. Did seem to be that if I turned off the VDC the skid light may trip less frequently. I did blink on a couple times while going straight with the VDC on and only like once with the VDC off. Not once since calibrating the SAS has the VDC and skid lights come on and stayed on like earlier, nor have I gotten the C1143 to come back.

I did notice where there had been three codes for the airbag when the light would stay blinking all the time, a B1054, B1049 and another B1054 all listed as Driver Airbag Module [Open]. Then trying to delete them, one of the B1054s deleted and the light went off and stayed off. When I go back in to air bag, I still see a B1049 and a B1054 and I try to delete and it says deleted successfully but I still see them. But like I said, no light on up on the dashboard anymore.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 28, 2021 12:00 pm

If it completed the calibration then it shouldn't be a wiring issue. You'd be getting a "can't communicate" code from the ABS if anything was disconnected. C1143 is an "off center" code, the ABS calculates wheel speed differences (which should be equal when the steering wheel is at 0 degrees) and if they don't match the angle received from the SAS, C1143 gets set. That's why C1143 only occurs when you're moving. If your scanner can stream the wheel angle, it should be very near 0 degrees when going straight down the road. If it's off by more than 1 degree or so then the calibration was off, just re-do it.

The bag brain keeps a code history and not all scanners handle them correctly. It's likely you're seeing "historic" ones mistakenly showing up as "past". If the bag light is out then they're definitely erased.

If you're getting slip lights without codes and the car isn't actually losing traction or yawing, it means the ABS is detecting a false slip condition. Most likely that means your SAS centering is still a teeny bit off but not enough to trip a code.

Roger that! I'll try an SAS reset, and do several after that if needed to try and dial it in. THANKS!

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 28, 2021 5:06 pm

The bag brain keeps a code history and not all scanners handle them correctly. It's likely you're seeing "historic" ones mistakenly showing up as "past". If the bag light is out then they're definitely erased.

If you're getting slip lights without codes and the car isn't actually losing traction or yawing, it means the ABS is detecting a false slip condition. Most likely that means your SAS centering is still a teeny bit off but not enough to trip a code.

Hate going to the dealer but that might be only place I can get it looked at. Several attempts to reset the SAS haven't adjusted the problem much. Feel I can pretty much replicate it any time by taking a right bank at over 35 mph. Besides the light, the slight vibration/shimmy the car does and the sound, kind of a grinding sound are concerning. I did however had a head scratcher where after starting the car, I hit the VDC off button before putting car in gear and I didn't have any issue during a 30 minute drive. Head scratcher but it got me wondering...is there a way to just bypass, turn off the skid system all together? I'm in Florida so no ice and I think the number of times I've ever seen it come on at an appropriate time would be like 2. Mostly I've seen the light when the brake/steering fluid reservoir was low. Was just a thought I had!

The noises you're hearing are the ABS hitting one of the wheel actuators erroneously because it thinks you're skidding. You should see if your scanner will stream the wheel angle rather than trying to readjust it blindly. Take it for a drive and see which direction it's off center, then fiddle the wheel position during adjustment to see if you can bring it to zero. Keep in mind that when you adjust, it's the car wheels that need to be dead straight and not the steering wheel. The ABS is calculating the revolutions of the road wheels and then comparing that to the steering wheel position. So if the steering wheel is straight during adjustment but the road wheels are ka-ka, the ABS won't like it. If the road wheels are straight but the steering wheel is ka-ka, the ABS won't care. I've found the best way is to drive about 500 feet in a flat parking lot and then dead-stop the car without touching the wheel, then do the ZP.

Roger that! Thanks I’ll do that and reply back !

Hey VStar, I did that reset of the SAS in a parking lot and think that made an improvement, at least while driving with the VDC off. If I have it on it still does it a bit but virtually eliminated with the VDC off. Not perfect but manageable for now. WIth a 122,000+ miles on it now, and still the original transmission I have been putting off getting a new tranie installed but since I'm giving this car to my teen when he goes off to college next Fall, I'll look to do it sooner than later. Not finding many places besides the dealer who will talk to me about doing the replacement, I'm hella annoyed that back when I first noticed an issue with it I was in the warranty replacement window but Nissan Corp. won't assist any, (sorry, sidetrack) but I'm thinking when it goes in for the trans. I can ask them to make sure the adjustment / calibration is set properly.

If doing the SAS reset dead-straight didn't completely eliminate it, then you may have a worn-out SAS. That's not as frequent on Rogues as some other models, but it does happen.

If you need to keep the cost down by going with a used tranny, here's the skinny on how to do it without getting hosed. First, always get the donor TCM along with the trans, even if it isn't the exact-right firmware for your ride. The reason is, it will still have any codes from when the car was still running. When you get it home, hook the TCM to your car temporarily without starting it up, then read the codes plus the CVT-A / CVT-B values. If there are any serious codes or CVT-A/B aren't both zero, you can send it back and try a different trans without a lot of hassle. Then, if the TCM reads okay, open the pan and have a look before proceeding. Brown fluid is okay and so is a varnishy smell, but not dark brown and not a burnt smell. A thin coating of metal shavings on the magnets is normal as is a thin coating of gray water sludge (that often happens in a JY), but not heavy or large shavings or heavy sludge. If all that passes muster, the used unit is a winner.

Hey everyone, and especially you VStar, wanted to do a final follow up on this issue I was having with the SAS on the clock spring I replaced. Ended up being a bad SAS sensor on the part I got from eBay. While I'm sure there is often not much difference between OEM parts and aftermarket, the $30 Clock spring off eBay vs. the $200+ one at the dealer was the difference between having an issue and no issue at all. To be fair, I might have been able to order a replacement clock spring from same online vendor and swapped it out and had a fine SAS sensor but since the Rogue was in the dealer for the CVT transmission replacement as well as trying to find the SAS problem, when they figured it out, I just had them replace the clock spring.

When they could hook up a monitor that would show what the sensor was reading, it would zero out when the wheel was straight and work just fine when the wheel was turned left. But when you started to turn the wheel from straight and then go to the right, from when the top fo the wheel got to about 2:00, the degrees of the rotation would start to over double the actual degree of rotation, this would continue up until the sensor thought it was full lock to the right and then I believe they said it would go back to reporting correctly.

If I had decided to wait to replace the transmission, I would have ordered another replacement clock spring as I was so confident I had installed it correctly and that it had to be an issue with that SAS as I was sure I had calibrated it correctly many times. Case closed for now! Even though its got 123,000 miles, its riding better than it has in years with the new tranny.

For an '08, if your trans didn't already have a cooler kit, hopefully you got one installed along with the trans? If not, get one. The '07~'10 CVT's with 2-port beehives were so susceptible to heat that Nissan actually produced a retrofit cooler kit. But because it was a bulletin and not a recall, only vehicles with complaints ever got the kit installed. Since your new tranny will have a Parts Warranty, you can either get the Nissan kit (pricey) or install an aftermarket cooler with an H-valve (external or internal valve is okay, just so it has one). See these links (and others) for tons of info:

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