I have a 2008 Quest SE that has intermittent failure of overhead switches for sliding doors and tailgate; the pillar switches for doors and tailgate also sometimes work, sometimes don't. I have seen a few occasions where the keyfob did not activate one of the sliding doors. Not sure if keyfob ever failed to activate tailgate. The issue also manifests in different combinations, such as outside slider handle activates power door but pillar switch will not close it, or overhead switch opens door but then won't close it, or passenger can get in sliding door and close it with pillar switch, but can't open the door with pillar switch to exit, etc. All of these occurrences happen randomly, without any pattern that I have noticed. Most of these issues have happened when the vehicle was not running, but I have seen it happen while the engine is running.

In addition, over the last few months I have seen unexplained battery drain at random times to the point where the van will not start without a jump, sometimes after having a door open for far less than the 30 minute auto-shutoff for interior lights. I have had the battery tested twice at auto centers following one of those incidents, and their equipment said the battery is good. I also just had oil change/tire rotation at the dealership 2 weeks ago, and their multi-point inspection said that "battery capacity test" was good. Don't know if any of that makes a difference or not.

This battery drain is becoming more and more frequent, and I tested voltage yesterday with the vehicle sitting undisturbed. The voltage dropped .04-.05V every two hours for the first six hours, then .69V during the next two, making it 12.28 at 5 PM yesterday. Today at noon it read 10.29, still sitting undisturbed since the first test. I believe there must be a connection between the door switches or actuators or controller and this drain, but don't know what to look at first.

Please share any ideas on this situation.

That voltage drop profile sounds suspiciously like a bad battery and not a draw. To find out, doing a draw test on a Nissan isn't complicated but takes at least 30 minutes on I-key models, possibly less on hard-keyed models. Put a 10-amp ammeter between the ground post of the battery and the ground cable lug, with all the doors closed and the I-key removed from the vehicle or removed from the cylinder for hard keys. I always find it easiest to put a visegrips on the negative battery post so you can conveniently attach an alligator clip. Alternatively, you can use a set of jumper cables, use one conductor to connect the post to the meter and the other to connect the cable lug to the meter. When you first reconnect through the meter, you'll see a relatively large draw (something in the 2~4 amp range). That will rapidly "step down" over the course of about 3 minutes to around 100~200 milliamps (0.1~0.2 amps) as the BCM puts various devices to sleep. It will remain there for as much as 30 minutes before the BCM puts the car into "full hibernation". When that happens, the draw should drop below 40 milliamps (0.04 amps). If it does, then your problem is a weak battery and not an excessive draw. Many of the new generation "smart" battery testers seem to have issues with older batteries that have undergone gradual capacity loss, so it won't surprise me a bit if your battery turns out to be toast. I personally saw the tester in our dealership declare a Rogue battery "good" and the car was too dead to start 30 minutes later after sitting with the ignition and hazards on.

@VStar650CL: You were correct! I wound up not having to test the battery at all -- when I put it on the charger overnight, it still wasn't done the next day. I replaced the battery with one correctly rated for my trim level, and no more problems (so far)! Thanks so much!

You're most welcome. Happy motoring!