2008 Nissan Rogue Transmission issue- Will not move

[j_medina13]

Good afternoon guys,

My wifes Nissan Rogue was driving perfectly fine, haven't had any CVT related issues other than when it was overfilled by the dealership. Draining and refilling to the right level corrected the issue over 100k miles ago. Last night she was driving home at 70MPH and the car just stopped accelerating completely and basically coasted to a stop. The car turns on fine, but does not move in forward nor reverse. If you put it in Park the car revs normally, however, putting it in Drive or reverse seems to limit the engine reving over 2,000 RPM (and the car doesent move). She stated that the vehicle did not make any funny noises prior to it happening. I tested the stepper motor which seems to be a common issue in these vehicles and it tested normal per the Nissan manual. Also, what makes it more difficult is that there is NO CEL/MIL light. Scanned it with a generic OBD2 reader and no codes came up, so started performing manual tests. I am wondering if it may be the TCM iteself, has anyone has any issues with the TCM?

[Rogue Jarhead]

Unfortunately you’re not the first to have this happen to them.

post6562014.html?hilit=Rogue%20won’t%20move#p6562014

[j_medina13]

Thanks. I had seen that posted but didnt see what the end resolution was. Im hoping its just a TCM as these run aroud $100 on ebay. I find it odd that there is no error codes at all.

[Rogue Jarhead]

There are error codes, you just can’t read them with most cheap generic scanners because it’s a transmission code not an engine code.

Do you have a friend with a higher end scanner of some kind? Maybe a friend who works at a garage and has access to one?

[j_medina13]

No, I do not know anyone with a enhance diagnostic reader. I started doing manual testing using one of the nissan tech manuals to check the stepper motor and one of the sensors. After having a crappy mobile mechanic look at it, I decided to buy a tester and check it myself. Ended up pulling 6 transmission codes (P0725, P0715, P0746, P0826, P0703, and P1723) and one Engine code (P1715) and an ABS code (U1000). 7 of these 8 point to a faulty TCM as a potential problem. I am going to rip the car apart this weekend and start manually testing each code per the Nissan manual. I will let you guys know what i find out.

[Rogue Jarhead]

Let us know how it goes. Especially if you decide to replace your transmission by yourself. With the older models that CVT was and is a problematic albatross.

A TCM replacement shouldn’t be that bad IF that’s all it was. Are you still under warranty? Nissan did extend the warranty for the 1st generation transmissions.

[j_medina13]

Well I cleared the codes and reran a test again. It seems that I came up with P0720 Output shaft speed sensor circuit and P0746 Pressure Control SOlenoid A Performance/Stuck Off. Debating whether I should buy the speed sensor or not. I tested it per the manual and both test out fine. I replaced the TCM with one I got from a junkyard and still get the same codes. What do you guys think?

[Rogue Jarhead]

How much is the sensor?

[j_medina13]

An OEM is super expensive. Thinking about going to a junkyard and pulling one just to see if it would work until i get a new one in. Aftermarket ones are cheaper, however, im getting impatient lol and dont want to wait. The aftermarket ones like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Transmission-Sen ... 1935-8E007
are cheaper but dont really specify if they fit the Rogue.

[Rogue Jarhead]

Junkyard is where I’d try in that case, from a wrecked one, not one that isn’t, lest someone sent it to the junkyard for the same isssue you’re having.

Rock auto has complete transmissions for these. Rebuilt I believe, about $2400 + $1000 core charge. I have no idea how they work or who rebuilds them.

[dave08902]

You should try to drop the pan and there is a small passage to look at the drive belt. See if the drive belt is bad because the code for the transmission speed sensor will fault because the drive pulleys are not turning. If it is only the drive belt, not hard to replace. The CVT is actually easier to repair but hard to get parts.

[j_medina13]

Yup, I found a wrecked 2011 altima at the junkyard that uses the same sensor. At this point it's not work dumping $2500 for a transmission into the car. The bummer is that on NYE I changed the front wheel bearings, rotors and brakes pads lol.

[j_medina13]

You should try to drop the pan and there is a small passage to look at the drive belt. See if the drive belt is bad because the code for the transmission speed sensor will fault because the drive pulleys are not turning. If it is only the drive belt, not hard to replace. The CVT is actually easier to repair but hard to get parts.

Hi Dave have you seen this issue? What gets me is that only the output peed sensor is showing an error, not the input speed sensor. Have you replaced the chain? Where did you buy it (in case that's the issue).

[dave08902]

Hi, it would make sense that the output speed sensor will show a fault if the belt failed because there is no speed output. If your TCM has an input speed and no output speed you age going to set a output speed sensor fault. The Primary pulley is monitored by the input speed sensor and secondary pulley is monitored by the output speed sensor. If the belt broke, then no output speed. You can get the belts at wit transmission parts or Transtar industries but the belt is very expensive. I have seen them for sale on Ebay for much cheaper. Before you buy the belt, you need to take the transmission apart and look at the primary and secondary pulley check balls for damage on the pulley shafts.

I have overhauled several automatic transmissions before but not a CVT yet. I have been researching and getting the tooling ready for the job when the time comes (hopefully never).

[amc49]

dave, I can see I'll be watching your posts as I'm in the same situation. Self taught ATX repair but not done CVT type yet. I worked on repairing them though on machinery and simple as compared to normal ATX. The trans blowups have them very easy to work on with much fewer parts.

I'd be looking at that solenoid issue too, depending on what it controls may just be that.

[dave08902]

Hi amc49, I hope you will never see my posts on CVT overhaul and hope I will never see yours. I didn't see his other code about the solenoid, that opens a whole new problem.

P0720 should be the last problem you should be worrying about because it is the effect from the larger issue of P0746 which is the cause. If you have no oil pressure control, then you blew a seal somewhere or have a hard part failure.

With the P0746, most likely you lost line pressure to control the variator's. The most probable cause for this fault is the Primary variator piston seal failure because of the 6 worn 6mm ball bearings in the 3 slots in the shaft. This causes the cone and the shaft to jam and cannot move up and down. When this occurs the Primary variator cannot control the size of the cone and the seal blows out from excessive pressure to move the cone. The result is the belt that must be in tension all the time looses tension and will result in a belt failure. Most likely you will need a primary variator and a belt. If you decide to remove the valve body, you can do an air leak test on the Primary and secondary variators to see if you have a blown seal.

In order to see the belt from the pan, you will need to drop the valve body. You may see the little clips from the belt if it failed when you drop the pan.

[dave08902]

How many miles do you have on this 2008 Rogue?

Did you change the transmission fluid?

The reason i'm asking helps to determine which part failed.

[j_medina13]

Hi Dave,

Sorry for the late response. Yes, I change the CVT fluid at 60K miles at the dealership then again at aound 150K with Castrol CVT fluid. I have not dropped the pan but suspect that the belt failed after further research as well. Have been very busy lately but plan on dropping the oil pan to see if I can find fragments of the chain.

[macgiver]

mac , the half dozen , mechanics , parts men, LOL service advisors, one knowledgeable customerALL vehemently CRITICIZE using anything like a Castrol "Everything Rated Fluid" - what's the bottle say, NS-1 & NS-2 and how about for the "F" of i t- throw in NS-3 ????? There was a movie called that - FOR a FEW DOLLARS ......... LESS ? Ya just get the fluid that's stated on the eng. comptmt. sticker( IS what 's Factory installed ) - from a DEALER . Respect.