Nissan Rogue Rear Axle Stands Location?

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
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desiguy
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Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:56 pm

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Hello all,

I just picked up a trailer hitch and I need to install it. I have axle stands but want to ensure that I place them at the correct point so that they don't damage anything.

I had a picture in the past but have no idea where it is.

Any ideas/pics would be much appreciated.

Thanks,


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ImStricken06
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Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue (sold)
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe
2016 Kia Sorento
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i have ramps, but i didnt even use them. its gonna be easier if the car is lower to you - so when you "try" and install the bolts into the rusted welded nuts on the left (driver) side frame rail, the car being lower will give you better leverage.

trust me when i tell you - clean those weld-nuts. they will be rusted to no end from years of water & salt. my bolts pretty much went in, and seized. i had to heat them to 1200 degrees just to get them to move and tighten.
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i color coded everything for you:
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Qashqai
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our world needs more imStrickens...Thank you very much for the info. I am going to install hitch to my Rogue this weekend...

By the way, I watched some youtube videos about hitch installation to Rogues, they did not remove the shield or bend it. I don't want to remove the shield, so I will keep it. Will it be a problem if there is a thin sheet of rusted steel between the frame and hitch? will it cause the screws get loosen or something? :ohno: I can bend it but in that case will there be anything left to hold that shield?

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ImStricken06
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Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue (sold)
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe
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Qashqai wrote:our world needs more imStrickens...Thank you very much for the info. I am going to install hitch to my Rogue this weekend...

By the way, I watched some youtube videos about hitch installation to Rogues, they did not remove the shield or bend it. I don't want to remove the shield, so I will keep it. Will it be a problem if there is a thin sheet of rusted steel between the frame and hitch? will it cause the screws get loosen or something? :ohno: I can bend it but in that case will there be anything left to hold that shield?
haha thanks for the kinda words :)

IF YOU HAVE A DRAW TIGHT HITCH:
(IT WILL HAVE A SMALL HOLE TO ACCEPT THE SMALL BOLT HOLDING THAT HEAT SHIELD)
nope, there wont be a problem at all. its to thin to matter, and the bolts will be to tight for the thin metal to matter. you can leave it there, if it all fits fine. the only issue i had is the driver side frame rail had those welded nuts rusted to no end. the bolts just wouldnt go in. had to use a heat gun at 1200degree to get things moving. JUST MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE BOLTS TO THE SPECIFIED TORQUE SETTING. otherwise, its a simple process. remove bolts & old tow hook, install new bolts & tow hitch :)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO2zbpSwGpE[/youtube]

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IF YOU HAVE A CURT HITCH: (IT WILL NOT HAVE A SMALL HOLE TO ACCEPT THAT SMALL BOLT AND WILL REQUIRE YOU TO REMOVE THAT SMALL BOLT HOLDING THE HEAT SHIELD PERIOD!)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMxs_ZAz1Y0[/youtube]

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Qashqai
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I know it is a silly question but which side of the conical washers should be outside? I guess the bumped part (the convex side) should touch the head of the bolt..but just to be sure...

ImStricken, remember I show you a spray of ruberized compound? I purchased it last night and sprayed all over the trailer hitch. Since the monkeys at U-haul throw all the hitches on top of each other it was all scratched and the steel was exposed. I am pretty sure it will get rust in 4-5 months (during winter, under all those salt they have no chance). So before letting it to expose with water/air/salt, I spray the ruberized compound. The result is GREAT. It will add protection I assume. the only problem is I can't clearly see the welding points to check if there is a structural damage/failure like a crack. But, I will attach a 50 kg bike racks with two bikes, I am sure this hitch can handle that weight. I also know rust wont be an important issue for the next 10-25 years of the hitch's life time :O), but it is so VISIBLE, that I dont want to have a rusted piece in front of my eyes. In Canadian traffic I saw lots of good looking cars with rusted hitches...

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ImStricken06
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i made a drawing for you (you want the bolt to flatten that washer. doing so will cause great stress on the bolt threads, and will keep them from backing out. it will cause them to pulled - thus adding grip to the threads.)
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thats cool, how thick was the rubber stuff, that you sprayed? you think it would add enough sound proofing for our wheel wells?

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Qashqai
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Thank you İmStricken, you are great. I thought the same way, it acts like a lock washer, but a giant version.

I have an idea, but I am not sure if it is feasable or not. just wanted to take your opinion. We got rear ended last summer and my wife still feels pain on her neck. We were "lucky" because the bumper absorbs the impact. Now after I install the hitch, the bumper wont be able to absorb the impact in case another idiot hits us. I read an article and a Government agency conducted a study and they prove that as well...the occupants of a car with trailer hitch is affected more compared to a car without a hitch. the only advantage is the affected car has less damage, but I dont agree with this statement. The hitch is attached to the frame and if hitch had an impact, the frame will be effected as well and I am sure there will be minor cracks on the welding points of the frame.,.anywayq, my idea is to remove hitch end of summer and install it back end of winter. just like the tires. I am using hitch for the bikes during summer, so no need during winter. by this way, hitch wont get rust and risk of being injured after a rear ended accident will be less. but I my concerns are:

-will the conical washers deformed after two, three times of tight-loose cycle?
-in the long run, will it damage the threads on the welded nuts? since the torque is high.

For that ruberized compound: my Rogue has a rubber sprayed inside the wheel well, so I am not planning to use it on the wheel wells. The material is similar to Plastidip for thickness. After spraying four layers, it has the thickness of a credit card. I am not sure what is required for sound insulation, thickness or elasticity. the only thing I know is it sticks very well. as I said my car came with factory sprayed in the wheel wells. comparing the texture and thickness, the factory one looks more heavyduty. I is thicker and has more rough texture. But I think the purpose of that material is to rust proof the metal. I think for wheel wells, and sound insulation, you should use the asphalt based version of that spray ( like the Dynamat)... or the one with more rough texture

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ImStricken06
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Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue (sold)
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe
2016 Kia Sorento
Location: Within Range
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Qashqai wrote:Thank you İmStricken, you are great. I thought the same way, it acts like a lock washer, but a giant version.

I have an idea, but I am not sure if it is feasable or not. just wanted to take your opinion. We got rear ended last summer and my wife still feels pain on her neck. We were "lucky" because the bumper absorbs the impact. Now after I install the hitch, the bumper wont be able to absorb the impact in case another idiot hits us. I read an article and a Government agency conducted a study and they prove that as well...the occupants of a car with trailer hitch is affected more compared to a car without a hitch. the only advantage is the affected car has less damage, but I dont agree with this statement. The hitch is attached to the frame and if hitch had an impact, the frame will be effected as well and I am sure there will be minor cracks on the welding points of the frame.,.anywayq, my idea is to remove hitch end of summer and install it back end of winter. just like the tires. I am using hitch for the bikes during summer, so no need during winter. by this way, hitch wont get rust and risk of being injured after a rear ended accident will be less. but I my concerns are:

-will the conical washers deformed after two, three times of tight-loose cycle?
-in the long run, will it damage the threads on the welded nuts? since the torque is high.

you know, you bring up a lot of interesting points. points that i myself have thought about for some time.

do i drive around with the ball & receiver in?
what if i get hit? will it effect the hitch? will it bend my so called frame? etc etc etc.

many good questions - to little science. but i think removing the hitch every few seasons just to reinstall - is kinda over kill. I dont think having a hitch will cause more impact or pain to the occupants, than the impact did on its own. if so, very minor. not worth the trouble.

MY THINKING OF IT IS: if the impact is great enough to make the hitch bend the frame, cause cracks, ; your car will be totaled insurance wise- so who cares. Any frame damage = instant loss.

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Qashqai
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hahahahaha What was I thinking? removing the hitch at the end of summer and installing back at the end of winter....hahahaha...I spend 50 minutes to install the hitch and probably damage some of my non vital muscles :). Now that hich is a permanent part of my car like welded. I will never remove it...


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