2007 Quest Blower Motor Resistor.

[hman]

Well, Thank you for being here.
I like to consider myself capable of repairing anything on any of my cars, but I am a little stumped.

The Problem: As of last night, the AC / Blower motor is blowing on High only. Will not turn off. Except when the key is turned off.

The research: All facts on the internet point directly to the Blower Motor Resistor. I can find the part on line and can accept the price all is well....

The Problem: All I can find under the dash, with the glove box out is the VCM... Or is that the same thing?
When I look up the part on line, I am only seeing the smaller part, but the only thing I can find under the dash is near the blower motor, towards the firewall, next to the cabin filter... It has aluminum cooling fins on it. Looks like a lot more than a resistor.

I contacted the dealer, but they are busy and I am on a call back status when they are available.
Online, I am not finding an answer...

I am sure there is someone here that will politely tell me how stupid I am...

Thanks for being here.

Chris

[hman]

Well, I found my answer without you... Thank you anyway, and at the same time, I want to share my answer.

The VBC is the problem I called it a VCM earlier, however, there is no need to spend $40.00 to $90.00 + to buy a replacement when the "Repair" is actually quite easy.

If you have the ability to pull it out, you have the ability to repair it. It is not rocket science.

Here is what you need...
First, you will need the patients to order this part. Digikey.com is the best! If you're lucky, you might be able to find one at a local store similar to old school radio shack... I just went to my trusted digikey.
You will need solder and a soldering iron.
CPU Paste

While I had the VBC in my hand today, I thought it might be this little mosfet (transistor) but I wasn't sure on how to test it.

I put it back together not working, but through further research found a post that confirmed my diagnosis... I have to wait until the middle of next week for the part, but not a worry. Well worth the wait for a $2.57 part. digikey.com part number 497-6744-5-ND
I will update with success when completed.

If you have any soldering skills at all, you should be able to solder the old one out, and solder the new one in... You will need some assembly paste, you can get it at radio shack for a few bucks. (CPU paste)

I can't take credit for the fix, here's the link I found.
It's four years old, but still true and solid information. The only change was the part number.
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18673
(Another notable Nissan Forum)

Prior to that discovery, I was able to confirm the module here via a diagram.
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/componen ... -83_6.html

I hope in the future this can help someone else.

Thanks for being here nico club!

[hman]

Job completed. Total time, approximately 15 minutes. Part came in two days early too.Thanks Digikey and US Postal Service!

Soldered out, soldered in, and put it back together with paste. At first only partial success; only ran on high but I could turn it off. I was a little sloppy with the solder. Heated up the connections and removed the excess solder and put it back together. Fixed. That's 15 minutes doing it twice.

Whole job cost, $2.57 plus shipping $2.73. (yes more for shipping than the actual part) I had paste, flux and solder, and solder gun already.
$5.30 and 15 minutes of my time.

Cheapest assembly I could find was @ $43 most expensive was $92
I'll rack this one up in the win column.

I believe just about anyone can handle this repair.

[Rogue One]

Well done!