2007 G35 VQ35 (HR) Cranks but don't start

A general discussion forum for G35 and G37 owners and a great place to introduce yourself to the NICOclub G-Series Forums!
Lindberg
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2025 8:09 am
Car: 2007 Infiniti G35 S VQ35(HR)

Post

The car fired up and when I put it in gear, the engine killed and never started again. The car has been sitting now for about 6 months, now I have time to look into the problem. I now notice a flashing red car symbol with key in it on cluster blinking. Key fob is inserted into the key slot on lower left of dash. Battery needs replacing in fob.
Any direction on what needs to be checked.
All cam position sensors continuity are in the 450 range, cam position sensor was similar, forgot exactly. Even though the numbers are in range from what I've read, (200-1000) is it possible that any one of the sensors could be bad? Fuel pressure 52psi. I didn't pull injectors or know how to test fuel rail. Fuel test was done at the fuel pressure regulator on bank A side.
Any help is greatly appreciated. I am an old V-8 carburetor kinda guy, this is all new to me.
Thanks


User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 11984
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

The blinky key light is normal when the ignition is off, it should go out when you turn the ignition on with the fob in the doghouse. If it stays lit solid then there's a NATS/security issue. That won't be the fob battery, the circuit in the doghouse is RFID and doesn't require the fob to have any power. They'll work even when the fob has been drowned.

The simplest way to exclude a fuel problem is to spray some Brakleen or Gumout straight down the intake(s) and see if it lights up. If it does, fuel is the issue, if it doesn't, bark up a different tree. Don't use starting fluid, ether can blow holes in a piston.

Ohms aren't a reliable way to check Hall sensors, you really need to scan the car and see if 1) the RPM reads when it cranks, which means the crank sensor is working, 2) that the cam angles on both banks read near 0 when cranking, which means the sensors work and the engine hasn't jumped time, and 3) that the MAF sensor registers a reasonable amount of airflow while cranking, probably 2~4 g/S.


Return to “G35 and G37 General Discussions”