2007 G 35 brake job finished!

Shocks, springs, sway bars, coliovers, bushings, brakes, wheels, tires - This is the place to discuss G-Series suspension modifications!
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gwoods
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turbobrian wrote:Why did you chose cross drilled and slotted? They wear out your pads faster and cause more break dust!! Bad choice for a daily driver. They look cooler I guess if you were going for more of a look than what will work best.
guess you missed my signiture?
Modified by gwoods at 2:01 PM 3/24/2008


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gwoods
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phil4watching wrote:Nice man. looks awesome. how much did all of that run you if you dont mind me asking?
$339 plus a couple hours of my time

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goneracin
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Be sure to warm up your brakes before heavy use and cool them after. I've warped a front set of Baer brakes on my mustang in less than a year of autocrossing. They don't really allow for warm up laps. I've since then switched to slotted only. Works great for my appl. and they are lasting much longer. What you have there probably does perform better on the open track. Just do a warm up and cool down lap and they should last you a little while.They look great by the way!

I did not catch it; what pads are you running?

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BigWill
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Can cross drilled/slotted rotors be turned? No matter how diligent you are with changing pads, at some point the rotors will need to be resurfaced... or replaced if they can't be turned.

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goneracin
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Sure, you can get cross drilled / slotted rotors turned.

joe603
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Yes, I've had cross drilled rotors turned before.

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gwoods
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2012 Toyota Sequoia Limited
Location: Phoenix

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goneracin wrote:
I did not catch it; what pads are you running?
Yeah I did a warm up lap and cool down lap everytime I went out on the track and I still killed my factory brakes.

The pads are kind of a bastard. The fronts are ceramic, I bought them from the company that made the rotors custom for me.

The rears are the red stuff ceramic/kelvar blend.

If I get a year out of the brakes I'll be happy. I drag race the car at least once a month and auto cross about 4 times a year.

With full slicks on all four corners the factory brakes just can't keep up.

Drilled/slotted can be turned if there is enough caliper material to turn. Hopefully I'll just wear out the pads and be able to just replace pads though without turning. I have a spare set of ceramic pads and my stock rotors sitting in the garage.


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SVTCOBRA
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Nice Job Nico Mechanic!!!

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gwoods
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Thanks

danielekfuj
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rn79870 wrote:
I think I like "Likes to pick daisys" better. It has a nice ring to it.

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gwoods
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Location: Phoenix

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danielekfuj wrote:

kevgoodwin
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Isn't it also a good idea to clean the new rotors really well to remove all oil or contaminants?

tollboothwilley
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Yes...it is a good idea to clean rotors before you install them. use a good brake cleaner fluid and a clean rag.

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audtatious
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BUMP

Can we get the images rehosted? PuhLeeeze?

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gwoods
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:ohno: Hey Matt don't ban me!

I just emailed them to your Nico email address in nice little 12-15 mb packages.

The way my life is going who knows if I will have a photobucket account tomorrow or not. My original photobucket account was deleted April 1st last year.

2fast4bmw
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Car: 2004 G 35 Coupe

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Every car needs that "personal touch" it's what we do, stock is boring! I will be doing a cold air kit, found a nice one on ebay from Canada, looks very well designed. Then LED lights where the standard bulbs are, soon 18in Hyper Silver wheels with tires that have taken me a month to figure out which ones to get..lol. Next and very soon, new rotors and pads! My 99 Civic stopped better, the guy I got the car from did his own brakes,,,,,,,Then the transmission oil, I know S matic, only. Lucas oil stabilizer with some good oil, have to choose that, and lots more!


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