2007 350Z Roadster BATTERY DRAIN

[askoric]

If I leave my 2007 350 Z Roadster parked, not used, the battery completely drains in about 10 days of inactivity. Its a slow drain, had it in to the dealer 4 times, they scratch there heads, they just recently replaced the battery and I left the car in the driveway, 10 days later dead as a door nail, wont start battery is dead. Any one else have this problem or know of it? Ive read about some G35's with Bose stereo issues maybe this is same? Alex

[orangeNblue]

I had a friend who had a slow drain problem. It ended up being a coin that was touching an exposed wire. You may want to look and see if there are any exposed wires anywhere with your stereo etc. and see if they are touching metal....

just my two cents

[K03sport]

Your car sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere. I would have said a corroded ground in the engine bay, but your Z is an '07, and I highly doubt you have a bad ground wire with a 2yo car.

Have you done any work on the car lately? Did you replace the HU or disconnect any wires if you were tinkering?

The possibilites are endless...I'm not too familiar with the BOSE issue, so could you explain it a bit better. Some said it doesn't go to sleep. Sounds wieird, but ok.

Here is a reply from srpowered240sx in another battery drain question

...-pop hood.-disconnect negative battery cable.-take a test light out of your tool box, attach clamp of test light to a good ground(strut tower bolts, rad support, some good ground)-take the test probe, and push it into the negative terminal.-when/if the test light goes on, it tells you that something is staying on when the car is off, essentially draining the battery. if it does not light up, you probably have a bad battery.-with someone holding the test light and watching the lit bulb, you start pulling fuses out of fuse box. have partner tell you when the light goes out. -once you have found the fuse that stops the drain, its just a matter of finding out whats wrong with that section of wiring. that part, i cant help with until you find it...

[askoric]

The only "tinkering" that has been done, the dealer installed a Daytime Running Lights Module ( a requirement for Canada Cars), other than that nothing, as is from factory. I read some blogs on the G35 (2003 models nothing recent) that in some cases the Bose stereo, particularily the amp, wouldnd turn off and hence would continue to draw when car was off.

Ive had it in to dealer and they claim " they done every possible test" and it checks out fine electrically, although specifically they havent provided me with anything/documentation etc. I'll have to press them to do more as car is still under warranty.

[carmo]

These are some of my favorite problems to deal with because nobody can ever figure them out. The dealership needs to perform an amperage draw test.

1. Trick the door switches into thinking that the doors are still closed. This will let the BCM power down with the key off and still allow you to have access to any fuse panels or switches in the car.

2. With your DVOM set to Amps DC, you need to disconnect the Neg. batt. clamp and put the DVOM in line. One lead on the batt. clamp and the other lead on the Neg. post.

3. Judging by the time it takes your battery to die , you have about 150 to 200 milliamp draw. 20 milliamps or 0.02 Amps is considered acceptable. Initially you may have 400 or 500 milliamps worth of draw but that is due to the fact that some control units are on timers and stay powered up for a specified amount of time. The Nissan Quest takes almost 30 Min. to power down. So watch the multimeter until the numbers quit changing. Your probably gonna be around 0.2 Amps or 200 milliamps.

4. Now you can start pulling fuses, one at a time, until the number drops to almost zero. When you find the fuse, figure out what is on that circuit and start disconnecting components one at a time. So narrow down the part in the circuit that is causing the draw. It may be as simple as a floorboard light or trunk light.

5. Replace part

6. Drink beer to celebrate

In the past I have seen seat covers hold down auto seat switches and cause a draw. I have seen seat switches themselves fail internally and cause a draw even though the switch works fine. Auto seats stay powered up all the time but usually don't cause a draw unless in motion. I have also seen radios cause a parasitic draw too. Also, don't forget, while the Multimeter/ DVOM is in line, DO NOT operate anything in the car or turn the keys on. The load will blow the fuse in the meter or burn the meter up if it has no fuse. An in line fuse in one of the test leads is always a good idea. Good luck

[AltimaZBoy2005]

Hey, I had the same issue on my 2005 Nissan Altima. So I borrowed a few tools from my job, and didn't take my long enough to figure out that the Bose AMP was staying on, I'm sure most have figured that part out. Anyway, since it doesn't really bug me I installed a switch on the power supply of the AMP. That way my radio doesn't reset the memory and I can enjoy music without having to remove the fuse anymore.

For those thinking of the same idea, I used a simple ON/OFF switch that can be found at any Auto Parts or Electronics shop, the wire you want to tap into it Yellow with Green Stripe on it. It's a thick cable it's about maybe 12g. It's on the pins that hook up to the AMP. I ran the wires to the bottom of the steering wheel and put the switch where it's discreet, and simple to reach. I really hope this helps others from their frustration like the one I had (lol). Also I don't know if the G35's and so on have the same cable color, all you need is a 12V tester and test them all. It's the thickest out of them all.

CHEERS!