car lost power and shut off and would not restart - no click but acc/on works and everything else turns on, remote door locks work etc - no start - pulled bat cable on side of road to see if it might reset (losing any codes unfortunately but no reader in car) - noticed key icon came on - also noticed the steering wheel did not lock in off position - seems this part 48700-EG010/A had failed (the steering wheel cylinder lock) - when towed back pulled code and u1000 (probably the dead steering wheel lock in line?) - previously was having the dreaded push to start and only a click which I posted about previously - this did NOT seem like the starter - my working idea is the culprit on the click and no start intermittent issue was this steering wheel lock cylinder failing the entire time

the oem assemblies are very expensive (1542$) with some dealers having lower prices possibly so looking at used device pulled off another vehicle
i noted the original part was 48700-EG010 and the new is 48700-EG01a
anyone else run into this problem?
used units are much cheaper but i understand that it must be reprogrammed, any options other than dealer to reprogram and any ideas on cost or other ideas?
do any locksmiths have this reprogram capacity?

also they install the units with breakaway bolts .. a real chore to remove

any possibility of removing the unit and hacking the system so it thinks its operable? im presuming at this point that the controller electronics in the wheel lock assembly gave up the ghost and that is the u1000 code... i wouldn't think that would shut down the engine but it appears it did unless something else failed at the same time

my understanding is this unit is key coded with the other security gear so if the main board in it died then it would have to be reprogrammed if a used unit was put in there but if its just the mechanical part can these be opened and the old board hacked into it so that i could swap it out and not have to reprogram?

anyone been down this road before ? input and observations are much appreciated thanks

If it's the same as the Nissan locks, the problem is a worn gear inside that should contact and close two microswitches when the lock is retracted, but because of the worn gear the switches don't close. You can cut the unit open and extract the circuit board, then tape the switches down and plug the bare board back into the car. You'll no longer have locking steering, but it will never no-start again. I don't believe any of the N/I locks are coded to the car, we keep stripped-and-taped locks around the shop as a way to start cars with failed ones.

thanks so much for the information and reply - in this case the unit is stuck in the unlocked position (wheel turns freely when car is off completely) do you think this would matter? if its in the unlocked position and still doesn't start it's the reverse of the symptoms i'm seeing with the nissan vids I found, after your post i saw some vids of the altimas and other nissans with the wheel lock not disengaging and some pushing the lock mechanism in and others breaking the box open and getting at the switches and controller board you're referring to - it's definitely worth investigating i certainly appreciate it - have to figure out how to get past the breakaway bolts in that small area and see if i can get the unit out and take a look , i found some photos of the 48700-EG01a it is somewhat similar to the nissan units that i saw and i believe you're referencing and presumably should work with micro switches in the same manner - this is assuming the board itself didn't fail which I'm suspicious of given the loss of power/shut down of the engine and that u1000 code...but there is no other code which might indicate what the system isn't seeing or it might be the u1000 isn't related to this at all - again i only got that after disconnecting the battery after she quit going down the street ...wish i'd had obd reader with me - from a post online "I have experienced several Nissan vehicles with code U1000 that stood alone. No problems were found in any of the systems, yet the code persisted. Exhibiting no driveability or operational problems, the code was simply ignored."

i forgot to mention there is a buzzing sound when you try to start ... that wasn't there before this wheel lock failure - i am not certain it's the wheel lock but it's coming from the dash area which is close and it well may be the lock system trying to disengage or operate and the gear/spindle is sheered off at this point....if that's the case the board must be working still - you've def. given me some ideas ... getting the board out would be ideal work around especially if there is a keycoding procedure for this wheel lock which i'd read elsewhere was the case on Infiniti's ... if anyone can confirm or deny this that would be great..thanks again Vstar650CL definitely don't need the wheel locked but i do need it to start

You're most welcome. The security bolts are the easy part, use a pointy-end punch and a tack hammer. They usually spin out cleanly once you get them to budge. Getting it apart is more difficult, they're built like a brick. I usually use a pneumatic cutting wheel or a chopsaw with the lock jigged in a vise.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 02, 2021 8:31 pm

If it's the same as the Nissan locks, the problem is a worn gear inside that should contact and close two microswitches when the lock is retracted, but because of the worn gear the switches don't close. You can cut the unit open and extract the circuit board, then tape the switches down and plug the bare board back into the car. You'll no longer have locking steering, but it will never no-start again. I don't believe any of the N/I locks are coded to the car, we keep stripped-and-taped locks around the shop as a way to start cars with failed ones.

That is an awesome bit of info. I seem to see a good few people posting in recent years about steering lock or no start things. If it ever happens to me I am going this route.