2006 M35x brake pedal stiff & car wont start

[Syriac209]

Hey guys, so I've read almost every thread and forum out there on this issue and couldn't help but to post this issue. So I've replaced the brake switch and have an interstate battery that is in good order. When in "On" position, I only notice the battery light on. Earlier in the day, when attempting to start the car the starter would "click click click" and would not turn. Now it doesn't "click" at all.

I've called the dealership and also Napa, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, and also online and cant seem to find the ignition relay or the starter relay. After speaking to the parts dept at the dealership they told me if I was to purchase a new starter it would come with the relay . They did the same with the U-Joint for the driveshaft. All one piece and there is no way of only replacing the U-Joint gotta swap it all out.

I am due for new brakes all around but not sure if that would be the cause. I'm starting to feel its becoming a starter issue so please, anyone, let me hear your thoughts. Thanks guys.


2006 M35x ~170,000 miles

[EdBwoy]

Welcome aboard.

Give us some history. What issues caused you to replace the brake switch?
Is this "Interstate battery in good order" the same one you had while having said issues or is it brand new?

What happens if you try to power the vehicle by a jump pack or jumper cables?

[Syriac209]

Thank you Ed.

The reason why I changed the brake switch was simply because I read it on a thread and it was supposed to fix the stiff brake pedal but didn't loosen up after install.

The battery is fairly new maybe about 3 years old. I had the AAA battery service guy and test and jump my car but nothing. Just heard the starter click click but it doesn't even make that sound anymore.

[Syriac209]

Wondering if it could be a fuse issue? So many possibilities. Anyway, I'm having the car towed tomorrow I'll give everyone updates on this issue with details.

Thanks

[EdBwoy]

First, I'd like to say that in the modern landscape, a 3-year-old battery is no longer seen as new. In fact, around these forums, most get replaced around the 3-4 year mark.
But since you've tried jumping the car, I suppose that isn't an issue.

I don't think a stiff pedal would be due to the switch, maybe a bad master cylinder.
However, since the car is not starting, the pedal will progressively become firmer. Your brake booster must be good


Out of curiosity, which of these 2 switches did you replace?

Do your brake lights come on still and does the car keep asking you to push the brake pedal?

I am guessing your battery ran out of juice if it doesn't even attempt to click the starter any more.
Keep us updated on what the facility says. It will be funny if all they do is bang at the starter solenoid to get it to turn over.

[Syriac209]

Thanks Ed, I'll buy a new a battery soon as soon as I get this taken care of.
I replaced not the brown switch but the white one. There's another "switch" I believe that has two bolts holding it down to the left of the image with the brass like cover. Not sure if that could be the issue. Or the master cylinder like you said. My head Ian spinning.

[EdBwoy]

I can't quite picture which one the other switch is, emergency brake switch maybe?

Anyway, I first posted this picture in this thread:(not related to your issue, so don't let it confuse you)
seat-belt-tensioner-t614021.html

Looking forward to your update.

[pedsemdoc]

That switch off to the LEFT of the photo with the brass-looking cover is the brake pedal stroke sensor, at least according to the maintenance guide diagram.

Craig

[EdBwoy]

Gotcha! Thanks Doc, my reading comprehension needed a little recalibration - OP, I thought you meant that you replaced a white switch that is held with 2 bolts...located out of frame on the left of the things I pictured. I'm with you now though.

See, the white one is the "brake light switch", while the brown one is the "brake switch". I know the brown one will be used for controls, so things like cruise control and I assume the logic to start the car.

Hence why I asked for clarification on this to see if you replaced the correct one:

Do your brake lights come on still and does the car keep asking you to push the brake pedal?

EDIT:
Actually, both switches are used to control various functions, so troubleshooting will just depend on what symptoms you are actually seeing.

[Syriac209]

Alright my friends, so my mechanic read a code "C1142" which is the ABS Brake Pump. The lights that came on while it was at the shop was the Slip light, VDC and ABS. These weren't on before the shop but now we know that if your brakes are stiff and you can't roll out of D or R then it's your ABS pump, in theory. But it also turned out I needed a starter and new battery, just to be safe, and also replaced the negative ground cable.

So i ordered the pump from eBay for about $100 (about 75k miles, used) going price from the dealer was around $1600. Make sure you get the correct part number for your VIN as well because some of the M35s have the cruise control sensors where the speed decreases if there is a vehicle in front of you.

Thank you everyone for your assistance. Hope it helps in the future.

[Garethk]

believe it or not but i had this issue but it was not directly related to the fault codes presented. what had happened in my car was the corner where the battery is located has a drain bung in the corner that was blocked and filled up with water to the cover the fuse box! check that both the areas in each corner of the engine bay aren't filled with water! its pretty hard to see and you will have to remove some covers and i would suggest removing the battery... i cleaned the blocked drain hole out and then cleaned the entire corner of the engine bay and voila....not been a problem since.

[ArmedAviator]

Sounds like all your problems here stemmed from a battery issue. Invest in a multimeter. A "good" battery should be around 12.2-12.5V and when charging, it will be around 13V.

The stiff brake pedal was due to the engine not running when repeatedly pressing on the brake. The vacuum in the brake booster was gone and once the engine runs again, it comes back to normal.

The VDC, Slip, ABS lights coming on is usually indicative of low battery voltage when the engine is running.

The burnt out starter may have been unrelated and an actual problem, caused by repeated starting attempts with a drained battery causing overheating and other damage, or not a problem at all.

Guys and gals, start with properly testing with proper tools the most basic of things when diagnosing problems to save time, money, and headaches.