I am storing this car for my dad in my garage. It has been about a month since I started the car. I decided that I would take his car to the grocery store to get it running so the battery wouldn't be completely dead. Well I went to start it and the battery ended up being dead. I tried jump starting it and no go. So I replaced the battery with a 24F Duracell from Costco. Now the car will not respond at all. The keyfob's lock and unlock buttons don't work either. There are no lights that work on the dash (not even key errors). However, the security light on the dash still blinks. So from my research on this forum, I have concluded that it is either the i-key unit, BCM, or the ESCL is bad. The odd thing in all of this is that it has an aftermarket remote starter that has been installed for 3 years now. That actually works! The car unlocks, locks, and remote starts with that. However, when I step on the brake or open the driver side door, it kills the car. So I am at a loss here guys.

Some of the things I have tried that were unsuccessful in getting it to start:

-Verified that the keyfob was transmitting (went to Batteries Plus to verify)
-Put in a brand new CR2025 battery in keyfob
-Taking mechanical fob key, putting in door lock, and turning it back and forth 6x (open/close)
-disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for 24 hrs (hoping to do a hard reset)
-Putting the keyfob in keyfob slot on lower left side of steering wheel (no light next to slot nor any lights on dash)
-Hooked up an Autel max IM608 reader to get error code U1000
-Banged on the gold ESCL while holding brake and pressing the ignition/start button
-Put car in neutral via the key slot hole lock, and tried starting car
-Hold "lock" on keyfob and pressed ignition/start 3 times

One thing to note is that when I tried to use my jump pack to jump the battery, the cars factory security alarm was set off. I immediately disconnected my jump pack to stop the alarm from going off. Since I did that the factory alarm does not seem to work anymore. I tested this by rolling down the driver side window, arming the car with aftermarket fob, and then reaching inside the window to unlock, and opening the car door. I also tried locking the car with factory key, and unlocking the door reaching through driver side window, then opening door, and that didn't set it off either.

Anyone have any other ideas I could try?

The factory security system disarms by turning the lock cylinder in the driver's door. Sometimes dying batteries at "never-never land" voltages below 8V will cause the BCM to go into an alarm state, and they generally won't come out until they see an unlock strobe from the mechanical key.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 01, 2023 8:54 am

The factory security system disarms by turning the lock cylinder in the driver's door. Sometimes dying batteries at "never-never land" voltages below 8V will cause the BCM to go into an alarm state, and they generally won't come out until they see an unlock strobe from the mechanical key.

Wish that were the case. I tried using the mechanical key to lock/unlock doors hoping that it would identify it. No dice.

That won't identify anything, but it should shut off the factory alarm. If it's still beeping at you then either the switch is bad or something upstream in the key system went south. It's not unknown for BCM's and I-Key Units to lose their memory from a dead battery, but it isn't common. I think you more likely have a power issue, since you say there are no lights in the doghouse. Those generally light up even if you stick a finger inside and depress the insertion switch. Check all your fuses and fusible links, especially the ones on the battery card. Sometimes reconnection just blows stuff, especially if you get a spark or two.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 01, 2023 12:01 pm

That won't identify anything, but it should shut off the factory alarm. If it's still beeping at you then either the switch is bad or something upstream in the key system went south. It's not unknown for BCM's and I-Key Units to lose their memory from a dead battery, but it isn't common. I think you more likely have a power issue, since you say there are no lights in the doghouse. Those generally light up even if you stick a finger inside and depress the insertion switch. Check all your fuses and fusible links, especially the ones on the battery card. Sometimes reconnection just blows stuff, especially if you get a spark or two.

I pretty much ruled out that it is a blown fuse since I am able to start car with the aftermarket remote start. When I start the car with aftermarket remote, all the normal dash lights come on. Radio, AC, Car seat adjuster, Headlights, etc.... all work as they should. Before I changed the battery out, I checked the fusible link attached to the positive side of the battery terminal. I also checked all fuses (inside and under hood) that related to ignition or engine.

That implies the aftermarket RS (which generally mimics a registered I-Key) is activating the BCM and possibly making an end run on the I-Key Unit. That would point to the I-Key Unit being either blown or having lost your fob registrations.

If as VStar650CL suggests you've probably lost your fob registration, you might as well just do the registration with the Autel IM608.

Costee wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 02, 2023 11:57 am

If as VStar650CL suggests you've probably lost your fob registration, you might as well just do the registration with the Autel IM608.

Problem is, can't do registration with the Autel. The car needs to be able to be in ACC mode. Autel instructions does not seem to work otherwise. Kept getting an error when trying to read. . It seems to only read some of the functions. Normally, the Autel would automatically read the VIN, but each time need to enter it manually. Most of the functions don't work due to not being able to put car in ACC mode.

We'll assume you're doing all keys lost. So do not insert the fob until prompted to do so.
Proceeded by manually identifying your car and you don't need the car to be in ACC mode for that. Again proceed through the IMMO and not the diagnostic partition. Normally your BCM and I-Key unit should have power irrespective of the ACC mode. If the tool can't reach these then there is a power communication issue. I should add that all your spare fobs should be registered alongside.

Costee wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 02, 2023 11:39 pm

We'll assume you're doing all keys lost. So do not insert the fob until prompted to do so.
Proceeded by manually identifying your car and you don't need the car to be in ACC mode for that. Again proceed through the IMMO and not the diagnostic partition. Normally your BCM and I-Key unit should have power irrespective of the ACC mode. If the tool can't reach these then there is a power communication issue. I should add that all your spare fobs should be registered alongside.

I'll try to give that another go. Just curious, but how can I rule out that it is not the ESCL that is bad?

jujubean wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 03, 2023 8:05 am

Costee wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 02, 2023 11:39 pm

We'll assume you're doing all keys lost. So do not insert the fob until prompted to do so.
Proceeded by manually identifying your car and you don't need the car to be in ACC mode for that. Again proceed through the IMMO and not the diagnostic partition. Normally your BCM and I-Key unit should have power irrespective of the ACC mode. If the tool can't reach these then there is a power communication issue. I should add that all your spare fobs should be registered alongside.

...but how can I rule out that it is not the ESCL that is bad?

The I-Key unit will report that.

Costee wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 03, 2023 8:18 am

The I-Key unit will report that.

Just wanted to update. I can't get the Autel to read when using IMMO function. It just won't communicate for some reason. Looks like I may need to have the car towed to my nearest stealership and have them replace the I-Key unit.