2006 G35 Sedan — Power Source for DRLs?

[GrizzG35]

Newbie questions here. Haven’t found anything in the forums that really clarifies this question. Planning on adding aftermarket DRLs to my ’06 G35 Sedan. ( https://tinyurl.com/jdmtoydrl ). 1680 Lumens. A bit of a Euro look — Audi, MB, etc.

So the questions is: What and Where is an appropriate power source?

The 15 amp Power Socket in driver side interior fuse panel is a switched circuit. It has power only when IGN is in ACC mode. Is it used for anything? Or is it free to use for accessory wiring, such as aftermarket DRLs?

On my 06 G35, the Power Socket is #5 in the fuse layout below. Also, #4 is listed as blank/not used, but also has power is when IGN is in ACC mode. Can this be fused (15 amp) and used for DRLs?

( https://fuse-box.info/infiniti/infiniti ... and-relays )

Also…is either of these two the *best* option for a power source, or is there a fuse or relay that could be safely tapped in the engine compartment? Obviously, that would be a lot easier than running wire from the interior fuse, behind the dash & console and out through passenger side to the DRLs.

Will be fabing a abs mounting in the lower grill insert (as pictured below.) Picked up a set of lower grills from junkyard and going to do the cutting & fitting on those and replace the originals when finished.

Thanks for any help. May have further question or two later. Want to make this as clean and professional as possible.

Rough idea of what I'm aiming for.

G35_DRL.jpeg (19.32 KiB) Viewed 743 times

[VStar650CL]

I always use the fuel pump circuit when doing DRL's for customers, since it only goes hot when the engine is running and not with key-on-engine-off. If they draw 1A or less (total) you can tap the FP circuit directly, otherwise use the FP wire to trip a relay.

[GrizzG35]

Cool. Thanks VStar. Makes sense. Engine compartment fuse block is certainly a lot closer and simpler. That’s what I was looking for.

The Fuel Pump relay fuse - Fuse 81 - will make it easier. Am I correct that I’d need a fuse tap with a secondary (15a ?) fuse? At 18w per light both lights should pull about 3 amps. And am I correct that 12ga would be sufficient for the harness?

The next question is, how to dim to 50% when headlights are on. What kind of resistor would be needed and how and where should it be connected? Ideally, would like to leave DRLs at ON @100% while parking lights are on.

Thanks for input on this. Kinda new territory for me. Old dog here (74) but still like learning new tricks.

[VStar650CL]

Old dog here too. Pushing 70, but I'd call any day when I don't learn something new a waste of life.

To dim with the headlamps lit you need a second relay, a 5-pin SPDT type. The "Bosch Box" types are the same price in 4-pin or 5-pin style, so just get a pair of 5's. Here's how I'd wire it, assuming a separate fused source for 12V from anyplace:
Relay 1:
30: Fused 12V source
85: Fuel Pump circuit
86: Ground
87: Relay 2 pin 30
87a: Unused

Relay 2:
30: Relay 1 pin 87
85: Low Beam circuit
86: Ground
87: Dimming resistor end 1
87a: Dimming resistor end 2 and DRL's

The way relay 2 will work is by using both throws, normally open (87) and normally closed (87a). When there's no power to the coil 30 connects to 87a, when the coil is powered 30 connects to 87. So when the low beams are off the dimming resistor will be "jumped out" by the NC contact for full brightness. When you turn them on, the shortcut is eliminated and current is forced through the dimmer from pin 87.

The value you'll need for the resistor is highly dependent on the LEDs' characteristics, so you shouldn't guess. Most LED's are highly non-linear with regard to current-vs-brightness, so you may need a much higher resistance than one might expect. However, the needed wattage will depend on how much current they draw with no resistance. So measure that first (current x at supply voltage y), then I can advise you on a potentiometer with enough power rating to experiment for brightness.

[VStar650CL]

PS - Here's a nice 5-pack of 5-pin relays with interlocking stackable pigtails for a neat installation:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385320893089

I also strongly recommend using solder shrinks instead of regular butt splices for hookup. If you've never used them, get some. They're God's gift to good wire repair, easy, sturdy, and completely weatherproof.

[GrizzG35]

Old dog here too. Pushing 70, but I'd call any day when I don't learn something new a waste of life.

Ditto that...!
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Thanks again, VStar! Thanks for the detail and clarity on this. Modern auto electrics can be a bit intimidating, at least for me, so this is gonna make me bone up on things a bit. (Back in the day, we rebuilt generators!) And what you laid out could be a good roadmap for anyone else doing an upgrade on these older models.

Never worked w ABS before, so this should be interesting. Measure twice, cut once. No big hurry on this project, but if things turn out well I may post a couple of pics and a brief outline on the process…and any cautions for others doing this kind of mod.

Appreciate your expertise…and willingness to share it. Molte Grazie.

[VStar650CL]