2006 350z Mod List

[Slizz]

So far the things on my list are as follows:
Car is a 2006 6 speed touring with 65k miles

z1 Clutch and Flywheel
JWT Pop charger and box
Z Tube
Single 3" Catback havent decided on brand yet. probably tomei ti on z1.
lightweight crank pulley
Osiris Tune

then after that, cooling, brakes, suspension, interior, wheels, tires, paint and a little body work and some other misc things I want to do.

I'm going to change all fluids before I start modding, like I do with every vehicle when I buy it.
I'm doing the clutch/flywheel first because its slipping.

Any other suggestions or exhaust suggestions would be appreciated, I'm not going for huge power (yet) just a little more rev happy and better throttle response!

[BusyBadger]

You'll get more responses to this if it's in the General area instead of technical, say the word and I'll move it.

Here's thread I started made a while back when a similar question came up, What would you do with 9K?

I realize that while compared to most cases in the road the Z is a little quick but will never reach the numbers put out by the Camaro, Corvette or the newest generation of Mustang without some serious engine work. For that's OK, the Z has never been about straight line speed, it's always been about being able to maintain and carry that does through corners.

I'll post more later, I'm on my phone and in getting tired of fighting autocorrect. But, before I do...

...clutch and flywheel are a great place to start as long as you buy an appropriate level clutch for what you'll be putting down with the mods you make, not something you want to have to buy (or swap out) if you don't have to. And a lightweight flywheel really changes how the car revs and drives, it really wakes it up - but the break in period kind of sucks.

[Slizz]

You'll get more responses to this if it's in the General area instead of technical, say the word and I'll move it.

Here's thread I started made a while back when a similar question came up, What would you do with 9K?

I realize that while compared to most cases in the road the Z is a little quick but will never reach the numbers put out by the Camaro, Corvette or the newest generation of Mustang without some serious engine work. For that's OK, the Z has never been about straight line speed, it's always been about being able to maintain and carry that does through corners.

I'll post more later, I'm on my phone and in getting tired of fighting autocorrect. But, before I do...

...clutch and flywheel are a great place to start as long as you buy an appropriate level clutch for what you'll be putting down with the mods you make, not something you want to have to buy (or swap out) if you don't have to. And a lightweight flywheel really changes how the car revs and drives, it really wakes it up - but the break in period kind of sucks.

You can move it. Doesn't matter to me! In regards to the clutch/flywheel, I want to z1 kit for both but Idk if I'll ever actually need the peformance one, the one I'm probably gonna get is rated at 350 ft lbs, but I'm sure it'll need a new one by the time I decide to A: do a full build n/a including a stroker kit, or B: full build and supercharge kit, but that will most likely be 5 years from now (when its paid off and I got the title in my name). With that said I just want a little more ooommmphhh off the line and the be able to corner like a bat out of hell ;P for now.

[jerryd1987]

in seriousness? just get a 50 shot of nitrous and needed safety devices like wot and window switchs give you enough power to start to be happy, and loose the lightweight crank pulley they do quite literally nothing, the quicker "free rev" they give dosnt mean squat before how quickly the revs happen while actually moving are determined by gearing, power and vehicle weight they also dont actually add any power or response. anything you notice is simply the brain and a common occurrence with mods "i bought this part to improve this aspect so it must have improved it" and your brain tricks your body.

as far as later on dont bother with NA, you can spend 20k on a full build and still get dusted by stock block superchargers/turbos.

supercharger? not too impressive the parasitic loss on those things are retarded, and they arnt "instant boost" like people think, the centris behave exactly like a turbo and often have more lag due to the fact their design is ancient and the bearings cant take as many rpm's as turbos due to the extra load from the belt. to get instant boost of a blower you need a roots(stillen which is tiny) or whipple(not made for the z) if you still insist on this route im hoping to release a eaton tvs-1320 supercharger kit this summer or winter(mayby even longer i need 5 people minimum willing to put deposits down and right now i only have 2, so a mustang or torino charity project is higher on my to do list when the shop is functional.), its a roots style like the stillen but instead of the tiny m62 blower(what the chevy cobalt ss came with stock as well as some other engines lol) the blower is sized between the old terminator mustang super chargers and the new gt500 blower, capable of about 900 bhp. be aware that is about 600 whp since the blower alone takes 200 hp to spin at that power(any blower on a 3.5L making enough boost to make that much power) although i could go to a tvs1900.

or i can do some wicked fast spooling turbo setups

just keep me in mind when your ready.

[Slizz]

I will but like I said, I just want a little more punch for now, Just basic bolt ons then I'm gonna focus on cosmetic/suspension stuff, I want a fun car I can DD but also go autox and road course every now and then.

Once i get a truck, then the situation will change to something more interesting haha.

[BusyBadger]

They're not sexy, well...they're sexy to me, but quality tires are an immediate (after 500 miles or so) benefit to a car - quicker take off, better grip/handling, better stopping distance.

I'd you're in a warmer area and can run summer tires right now the best bang for your buck is the Bridgestone Potenza S-04.

[Slizz]

I'm just gonna run continental extreme contact dws eventually because idk if I'm gonna be able to park it for winter... and eventually I want to get a set of volk re-30's and run 275/40 rear 245/45 front, then I will run a dedicated summer tire

[jerryd1987]

well like i said nitrous then, you will spend less then full bolt ons and get more punch...................

[Slizz]

I will never run nitrous on a car sorry.

[SX APPEAL]

supercharger? not too impressive the parasitic loss on those things are retarded, and they arnt "instant boost" like people think, the centris behave exactly like a turbo and often have more lag due to the fact their design is ancient and the bearings cant take as many rpm's as turbos due to the extra load from the belt. to get instant boost of a blower you need a roots(stillen which is tiny) or whipple(not made for the z) if you still insist on this route im hoping to release a eaton tvs-1320 supercharger kit this summer or winter(mayby even longer i need 5 people minimum willing to put deposits down and right now i only have 2, so a mustang or torino charity project is higher on my to do list when the shop is functional.), its a roots style like the stillen but instead of the tiny m62 blower(what the chevy cobalt ss came with stock as well as some other engines lol) the blower is sized between the old terminator mustang super chargers and the new gt500 blower, capable of about 900 bhp. be aware that is about 600 whp since the blower alone takes 200 hp to spin at that power(any blower on a 3.5L making enough boost to make that much power) although i could go to a tvs1900.

or i can do some wicked fast spooling turbo setups

just keep me in mind when your ready.

I know you're the resident 350Z FI expert on this forum but I have to ask, how are you figuring a 300hp difference between the flywheel horsepower and the wheel horsepower based on the parasitic drag of the supercharger? The blower may well need 200hp to run it, but this loss would be seen at the crank too, not just at the wheels. In other words, you would never measure the gross horsepower of the engine before the parsitic loss at the flywheel, because this power has been used to run the blower before it can ever be transmitted to the drivetrain. Therefore if there is 600hp at the wheels, figuring your average 20% drivetrain loss, you're looking at ~750 at the crank. But you can't then say that this is a ~950bhp engine that's losing 200hp to its supercharger, because you can't make the 750 without the supercharger. By that logic (since internal combustion engines are only about 30% thermally efficient) you could say that the VQ35 is actually a 1000hp engine that losses 70% of its power to waste heat and friction of the reciprocating assembly.

Also I don't understand why superchargers take all the beating on parasitic loss and turbos don't. Is a turbo not a significant exhaust restriction? Are you not still "robbing power to make power" in that respect? Additionally, running significant levels of boost usually requires lowering the compression ratio of the engine in order to avoid detonation, effectively diminishing its power and efficiency when not in boost. How is that not sacrificing power to make power? Now the overall ratio of power used vs power gained may be better with turbos and with superchargers, but nonetheless, turbos are not "free hp" any more than superchargers are "instant boost."

If there are important factors I'm missing, please enlighten me.